You've never done this before have you... Never buy the first one you try! And certainly don't go there having already decided you're going to buy it. You will fall in love with it even if it's shit. Be prepared to walk away; there are plenty out there.
I looked at about 20 Pumas before I bought my second one!!
Here's my checklist:
Paperwork:
HPI check it for any recorded accidents / that it isn't nicked etc.
Check the VIN matches with the logbook - you can find the VIN under a flap of carpet near the driver's seat near the door, and also on a plaque under the bonnet and a plastic insert in the front of the dash viewable from the outside near the tax disc
Check all the MOT certificates for advisories, even the old ones; if old MOTs are not present you can look them up online.
Make sure the receipts/dates tally with the log book / MOT advisories.
Look for documented oil changes - the more the better
Nice receipts to have:
At 70k a few things will need doing probably, so if you've got receipts for any of these, that's a bonus:
See if the clutch has ever been replaced - it will probably need doing at some point around the 80,000 mile mark if it's still on the original
Check if the suspension bushes / drop links have ever been replaced
Check when the cambelt was last done; should be within the last 5 years. Ideally you want to see an invoice that shows it also had the rocker cover gasket, water pump and aux belt done too.
In the car (none of these things are deal-breakers but if they start to mount up you may want to walk away or use your list of niggles to bargain with):
Check the remote central locking/boot opening works from the key fob (if there is one)
Check all the keys work in all the locks (check you have at least two keys - one should have a red tab in it or it may be entirely red; this is your master key - without this you won't be able to program any spare keys you might want to get)
Check the boot opens and closes properly, that the light works (on the right) and that the jack is present (in a compartment on the left) - don't worry if the parcel shelf falls off; this is a Puma quirk
While you're in the boot check the rear passenger seat release works (two grey knobs either side of the boot) - you should then be able to push the top half of the rear seat forward for extra boot space when required
Make sure the front seats go back and forwards on their runners, that they adjust properly and that the mechanism for folding them forward so passengers can get in the rear works properly.
Check all the seatbelts fasten correctly and move in and out smoothly, and that the seatbelt pretensioners (the bit you plug the seatbelt into) aren't scrunched up (they should be ribbed, but straight - if they're compressed it means the car has had an abrupt stop, possibly an accident, at some point and the airbag has gone off - there should be a warning light if this has happened but unscrupulous people smash the bulb to hide this
Check the glovebox opens and closes nicely (a lot of them are saggy and fall open) and the sun visors move smoothly
Turn the key in the ignition until the lights on the dash go on, but don't start the engine - make sure all the lights come on and then go off (except for two)
Check all the electricals/controls - indicators, hazard button, horn, fog light, heated rear window switch, heated front window switch (if fitted)
Check the windscreen wipers are working front and back on all the speeds, and windscreen washers, ideally they shouldn't judder or smear (there should be caps on the wiper arms as well - if there's a nut exposed, then it's missing (and they often are) - not the end of the world
Check the electric windows go up and down all the way and don't stick / groan, and that the electric mirrors work (if fitted; I can't remember if the Black had these as standard)
Check the radio/CD player works - put a CD in, change the volume (the volume knob can sometimes have a mind of its own), test a few radio stations (AM/FM etc- the radio can often fail to tune into some frequencies) - the 6000CD player is a piece of shit, so if it works chalk that up as a win
Check the interior for rips, tears, stains, scratches etc. Check the leather on the steering wheel is clean and smooth; if they're not looked after they can go shiny and lumpy.
Check that the door cards are securely set and don't flap about or rattle
Exterior/Under the bonnet:
Check the windscreen for chips, and that there aren't any larger than 10mm across in the area covered by the windscreen wiper as it sweeps across - this is an MOT failure and will require a new windscreen:
Check the state of the bodywork - look for dents, scratches, badly-aligned panels, stone chips, rust
Check the alloys for corrosion / kerbing and tyres for signs of uneven wear (this is an indication of tracking/alignment needing to be done)
Push down firmly on all four corners of the car - it should spring back firmly; if it's a bit too bouncy the dampers are probably on their way out (if you're not sure what spongey suspension looks like, if you take it to a garage they will probably do this for you anyway)
Pop the bonnet and check the oil level - it should be a nice golden colour and visible on the hatched section of the dipstick. If it's black and hanging off the end of the dipstick, walk away. Also check the other levels - PAS fluid, coolant etc.
Take off the filler cap and check for "mayo" produced by oil and water mixing - this is a sign of a failing head gasket (also be suspicious if the cap is exceptionally clean!) - Pumas are not known for head gasket issues though, so don't get too hung up on that
Look for any evidence of oil leaks - the rocker cover gasket is notoriously leaky
WIth the engine running:
Start the engine with the clutch pressed down - should roar into life straight away and purr away between 800-1000rpm. If the revs fluctuate or it feels lumpy, you may be in for a fun ride trying to work out if it's the Idle Control Valve, PAS pressure switch, MAF, lambda, air leak, coil pack, spark plugs, HT leads etc. etc. etc. Lumpy idle is a pain in the arse but you will find out what's causing it eventually.
Check all the lights - side lights, main lights, full beam, number plate lights, interior lights
Check the headlight level adjuster - listen out for excessive noise or clicking, this may indicate this isn't working properly
Check the air con is working nice and cold and doesn't smell after you turn it off
Test Drive:
Listen for knocks and squeaks if you go over any speed bumps or uneven road - knocking may indicate some expensive suspension work is required
Make sure the car isn't pulling to one side or the other and that the steering feels tight and responsive; if doesn't feel straight and true, the car may need something as easy as tracking, or something as expensive as a new wishbone.
The gear change should feel smooth, and it should accelerate smoothly through the rev range
Some Pumas get a bit lumpy / feel like they're about to stall at low revs / when slowing down for traffic lights and junctions - again, could be any number of things but you'll fix it eventually; you'll probably want to find one that doesn't do this, though
Check the brakes feel responsive (although even the best Puma brakes aren't brilliant
After the test drive, check the handbrake feels firm and tight, then check the heater on all four settings on both hot and cold; make sure this is working or the HCV or resistor pack may need replacing (not the end of the world) - no point doing this til the engine is warmed up as the air will be cold regardless of setting when the engine is cold
General tips:
Take a friend/relative who knows about cars if you can, or even one that doesn't - just to keep you grounded/second opinion. If not, ask the seller before you go if you can take it to a local garage for an inspection on the test drive; if they refuse, walk away. Call some local garages and find one that will give it a quick eyeball for you. Any decent garage will give it a look over for free, others might charge you. If you don't know how to check for a slipping clutch, ask a garage to do this for you as well (but it's courteous to check that the owner is OK with them doing this first!)
Don't go on your own and rely on 'gut feel' alone. If you go on your own and buy it on the basis that it 'feels' right, it will be entirely down to luck whether it turns out to be a gem, or if it will break your heart a few months down the line.
Important note:
Sill and arch rust will be way more than £200 to fix properly (i.e. rust cut out and new metal welded on). I wouldn't expect to get much change from £500 for a really good job from a reputable body shop; £200 will get you filler and a blow over that will need to be done again in 6 months time. Also bear in mind the alloys on the Black edition are tricky to refurbish due to the plastic rivet-effect rims; so if they're showing any signs of corrosion or kerbing, you'll probably want to factor in the cost of a new set of wheels.
Good luck! Hope it's a good 'un. :thumbs:
