ST170 rear disc conversion and ABS

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moondustka

Active member
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
1,255
Location
Surrey
I'm hoping someone can enlighten me with the abs on the puma and rear discs..

I understand I have to modify the focus hub to make the abs work? I'm a bit confused with what I actually need to do?! How do I swap the tone wheel over?

Any help much appreciated!

Ben
 
Firstly this is only for show, there is no noticable improvement in braking performance by fitting discs.

You need to machine down the back of the Focus hub to accept the smaller Puma/Fiesta/Escort rear tone wheel, and you need to enlarge the ABS sensor hole, along with drilling and tapping a new hole for the retaining bolt.

Read here;

http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=6303&hilit=+rear+brake" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
it does help.....but you wont notice it unless youv got no abs and you hit them really hard.... when you do stop a cloud of smoke from your rear tyres passes you!!!

i noticed the rears lock all too easily when i went from frp focus 2.0 read discs to just unhooking the abs...
now its even worse cos iv got st170 discs on! oh and the discs are nearly twice the price for an extra 30mm!!!

still fun tho :)
and they look better than drums, just need bigger fronts on the frp now...
 
Thanks very much for the info :) but I do strongly disagree with them not being worth it.

I have a full front and rear setup from the ST170 and it never locked on my Ka (until the day I hit gravel :cry: ), just transferred the whole lot over, but want to keep the ABS :)
 
FlashBastd said:
Read here;

http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=6303&hilit=+rear+brake" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


I did read this, but didn't know how to fit the puma tone wheel, can't be much different in size?
 
You will need to put the hubs on a lathe to turn them down a bit to accept it. This is a precision job otherwise it just won't work.
 
FlashBastd said:
You will need to put the hubs on a lathe to turn them down a bit to accept it. This is a precision job otherwise it just won't work.

Thanks for that! Just found some pics on the net with measurements - I spent ages trying to find stuff on this the other night and only just those pics :roll:

For anyone else, they're here:

http://www.rpoc.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=1727" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Luckily my next door neighbour might be able to machine the hubs down at his work!

Anyone know if I can buy new tone rings?!
 
Got this all fitted now, bought new puma ABS tone rings and had them fitted to the focus hubs. Also bought a new rear ABS loom with sensors.

Unfortunately, the light is still on :roll: not really sure why. Sensors are probably around 1mm away from the tone rings.

Any ideas?!

Thanks!
 
i can guarantee you will not get any better braking power fitting rear discs, they do however look better and are easier to work on and maintain
 
Firstly you have driven the car at over 15mph for it to do the ABS self-test?
The new ABS loom should be for a 95on Escort Estate.
The tone wheels must be mounted centrally on the hub.
The new ABS sensor hole must line up centrally with the tone wheel.
Your gap of 1mm may be slightly too much, try getting the sensor a touch closer.
 
self test? How do you do this?

The ABS loom is a puma one.. surely this should be fine as the tone wheels are puma ones also?

Tone wheels are central, I know that much. The sensors are probably not 100% in line as you can't get the sensor hole any closer to the middle of the stub axle, it's right up against the centre of it.

I put them as close as I can get them, the sensor only sticks through the abs hole so much. I then put the tone wheels as close to the back of the stub axle as possible, any closer and the tone wheel would rub against the part where the caliper bracket starts to bow out a little.

Thanks everyone for the help..

P.S. I know the rear discs don't make much difference for town driving, but they do help braking from higher speeds. The car is more flat in it's braking and doesn't nose dive so much :)
 
they wont help braking from higher speeds, its in your head lol, both setups are fairly low pressure, if your car is dipping at the back then you have your bias wrong, you will want your car to dip at the front for spirited driving anyway, it adds grip to turn in and helps prevent understeer

self test: your car performs a self test of the abs when you go over 12mph thats what hes referring to
 
The Escort estate sensors fit better than the Puma ones (and are what was used on FRP), plus the loom exits them at 90 degrees rather than at an angle which makes things easier. Are the tone wheels level against the back of the hub, meaning a consistent gap throughout a full revolution?

Tone wheels are the same on Ka, Fiesta (to 2002), Escort and Puma.

Only benefit of rear discs, aside from looks, is resistance to fade, even on the FRP the only reason they fitted rear discs was because consumers would expect them, not because it needed them.
 
Oh, and RE: self-test, until the car does the self-test it doesn't know that you have fixed the issue, so light can't go out until the self-test is done.
 
back-side.jpg

16-wheel.jpg

rear_brakes_1.jpg

rear_brakes_4.jpg

Might be help with s/t.
ST170 (280mm) disks + brand new Lucas calipers from Audi A4 Quattro (a lot cheaper then Ford's calipers) + selfmade mounting bracket. Other compounents are remains stock.
 
I have the tone wheels even all the way round. I've driven the car (before I started ripping it apart) on the journeys and the light is still on.

The sensors must be less than 1mm from the tone wheels, the light is a tiny slither through the gap!

The only thing I can think is wrong, is that I couldn't get the sensors 100% directly over the tone rings due to the diameter of the stub axle.. surely other people have found this too?! they are probably around 80% over.

I might have to borrow a diagnostics to check it once I get the car together and moving again.
 
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