stumc's supercharged puma: 26/03 rolling road + rebuild woes

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What an awesome project!!

I'm pretty sure the SC boost should climb with revs, that's why the cooper S guys put smaller pulleys on, to get a bit more boost. They run at 14psi at 14k rpm iirc on a 1.6. So if you have still got a standard pulley (60mm I think), you should be pushing a lot more boost then 6psi at higher revs. There is an actuator available for the eaton to keep it at a boost level but it won't fit your charger, the only way to adjust boost is pulley size, so I'd expect 6 psi for a 1:1 ratio on a 1.7, ie the sc is spinning at the same revolutions as the engine (equal size drive and sc pulleys).

That's all just theory on my part and I could be mistaken on that, but that's what I'm lead to believe.
Mid 12's for cruising is quite rich, I have mine at 15 for light load and easy cruising, and even leaner for very light load, but my comp ratio is lower.

Looking forward to more updates!
 
Warren I've already blown one off! First trip out I drove I drove to a petrol station about a mile away and it wouldn't restart, thought I'd blown it up already lol! It's on my list of little jobs to do, although I've done another 90 miles with no more dramas.

One of the chaps on another forum I use has a supercharged fiesta and has said the same thing as Ryang regards the supercharger, I'm inclined to believe that with the way I my car boosts. I forget the measurements now but the pulleys were just slightly higher than a 2:1 crank:supercharger ratio. The max revs for this supercharger is around 14k rpm mark so it'll be knocking the door of that at the engines redline.

I'll definitely lean the mixture out a touch Inext time I get to take the car out, I'd like to get it on a rolling road and see what it's making now and then do a before and after with the fueling tweaked, would be interesting to see how much power is to be gained by leaning it out a bit.

Wasn't it you who got a copper head gasket made a while back with your green turbo'd puma? I'm thinking this could be a worthwhile step, allowing me to run higher AFRs and potentially more boost from a bigger blower in the future. I'm already planning the next stage, an m62 or similar. I'm going to try and pick up a cheap used blower from the USA on one of my next visits, although I think I will struggle for space up front and either need a custom rad, 1/2 size double cored bad boy off a honda maybe, or if I wanted to go mad, a big FMIC dominating the front with a rad mounted in the boot. I just don't know if I want to compromise the stealth factor by having ducting in the back windows going to the rad, and there's the weight aspect too, as I'm trying to keep the car as light as possible. All food for thought though, and something I'll have to decide once I have a bigger blower to offer up. For now ill just focus on getting this running at its optimum and reliably.
 
decompression plate aluminum or stainless steel i went for a 2mm stainless,you will need 2 head gaskets as well one to go each side of the plate.
 
Agree. Go stainless, whit 2 gaskets, copper wil react to the aluminium in the engien...

But, know that as pacer plate is not ideal, this wil change the combustion chamber.

Idealy you should change the pistons.... But whit that said, a spacer plate wil work :)
 
Good shout on the copper with ally issue. Having said that I've never heard of them causin issues on other engines running alloy heads. And I've never really fancied the idea of a plate with 2 gaskets although I'm sure it's been fine on plenty of other vehicles. Part of the appeal to a copper gasket is the strength aspect aswell. I wonder if the gaskets can be coated in anything? To make sure there army any dissimilar metal type corrosion issues. Pistons are the best solution but that's a cost a bit above what I really want to be spending.
 
The double gaskets should suficently protect the head and block, but I would stil be sceptical.. A coting of some kind like you said, would work, but what to coate it wit? Ceramics perhaps.. That's sadly not my aerea of expertice :)
 
Teflon or silicone? I've no idea to be honest but I'm sure there's a specialist somewhere that does.
 
There probably is :) most importat is that it can take the heat and pressure, and not react whit either the oil, fuel, or coolant :)

Edit: you could always just have the plate made of aluminium :)
 
Hi,
found this on ebay,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cometic-Head-Gasket-for-Ford-Puma-F3-1-7L-83mm-010-Inch-SS-C4223-010-/331066487567?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1519b30f&vxp=mtr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Regards
Richard Mansfield
 
You can buy the Cometic head gasket from Burton to. http://www.burtonpower.com/cometic-head-gasket-010-83mm-ford-puma-f3-1-7l-c4223-010.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Just a couple of pics to show the install.

the plenum and bracket were painted before they went on but i dont have any pics unfortunately.

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011A5869-E186-45EC-830E-883271181D1C-2787-0000061BCBE03809_zps5e872cff.jpg


the 5th injector kit initially came with a bosch cold start injector but it didnt work, i got another from a porsche 924 but that didnt work either! wondering if it was a voltage/impeadance issue i tested a mondeo injector and it worked so decided to run with that. the cold start injectors had a union fuel feed and bolted dirrectly into the boss which made life pretty easy. to fit the mondeo injector i had to open up the boss to 13.5mm, then got a mate to make up a collar to join the injector to the take off from the mondeo fuel pressure rail.

DA4351AC-0CC1-41BB-B72A-203CA2696395-2787-0000061C17BC4CBE_zps75128685.jpg


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the 5th injector controller and boost switch.

12BCB634-D307-400A-97B9-82270435B182-2787-0000061B460734CD_zpsbfc5eef8.jpg


IMG_1049.jpg


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Nice work.. I really like the cut dash look! It's a a nice way of being able to mount the stuff you need but shedding some weight!
 
Cheers, yeah I've done dashboards like that before and you can save a hell of a lot of weight but it still retains some civility and as you say, can still mount gauges etc. I've had cars with just the clocks cable tied to the steering column and switches dangling from the loom, but it's a bit tiresome!
 
Looks good :) but question... Do you realy need the 5th injector? Would it not be possible to remap the ecu to give more fuel? And if not, would you consider a stand alone fuel management system, to remove it?
 
Yeah I could do both potentially, but of the companies I know of and would trust that could do it, Motorsport developments for instance, said they wouldn't do it. Aftermarket management is an option, but for an ecu that would allow me to retain the vct, it'd cost a fortune.

The 5th injector was just an alround easier and cheaper option.
 
I see :)

How about a variable controlable fuel pressure regulator? One that boosts fuel pressure when on bost, but goes back to standard when off boost.. :)
 
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