When I got the puma http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=26172&p=324750#p324750" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; it wasn't getting up to temp (according to the gauge. It's an analog dashed car), barely leaving the warm up area. The fan also doesn't run so queuing in traffic is a pain as then, the gauge will rise right up.
A day or two ago, I replaced the thermostat with a Ford one and fitted it in a new housing.
That has raised the temp so that after a few minutes the gauge sits between the N and O of normal. It does dip down though when you give it a heavy foot and occasionally at other times. The only time it gets to the needle being bolt upright is if you let it idle after a drive. Then because the fan isn't cutting in, the temp creeps up and up.
Assuming the Ford stat is fine I am guessing this points to the apparent over cooling being due to either a dicky sender or possibly the HCV? I noted it is fed from a bypass in the thermostat housing and am wondering if this could be involved. I can get a laser temp reader tomorrow so can get an idea of how the thing is heating up and what the actual operating temps are.
I've had a search here and see all the HCV issues folks have but I haven't been able to find an answer to the flow pattern of the HCV. (The heater works as it should, takes about 30secs to a minute to go from full hot to full cold though...Heater blowing hot or cold does not noticeably affect the temp gauge)
When the valve is 'closed' does it block the flow completely or just redirect it down the return pipe?
I ask because when I was flushing it I noted that in the cold setting, water would go straight from flow to return. Is it meant to behave in that way or should it block the return path?
If it were and if the valve had failed in that regard, I imagine it could have an overall cooling effect.
Or am I barking up random trees? :grin:
Then there's the fan ofc. It doesn't run on the aircon either. Have swapped the relays and nothing doing. Haven't tried it on a direct feed yet though.
A day or two ago, I replaced the thermostat with a Ford one and fitted it in a new housing.
That has raised the temp so that after a few minutes the gauge sits between the N and O of normal. It does dip down though when you give it a heavy foot and occasionally at other times. The only time it gets to the needle being bolt upright is if you let it idle after a drive. Then because the fan isn't cutting in, the temp creeps up and up.
Assuming the Ford stat is fine I am guessing this points to the apparent over cooling being due to either a dicky sender or possibly the HCV? I noted it is fed from a bypass in the thermostat housing and am wondering if this could be involved. I can get a laser temp reader tomorrow so can get an idea of how the thing is heating up and what the actual operating temps are.
I've had a search here and see all the HCV issues folks have but I haven't been able to find an answer to the flow pattern of the HCV. (The heater works as it should, takes about 30secs to a minute to go from full hot to full cold though...Heater blowing hot or cold does not noticeably affect the temp gauge)
When the valve is 'closed' does it block the flow completely or just redirect it down the return pipe?
I ask because when I was flushing it I noted that in the cold setting, water would go straight from flow to return. Is it meant to behave in that way or should it block the return path?
If it were and if the valve had failed in that regard, I imagine it could have an overall cooling effect.
Or am I barking up random trees? :grin:
Then there's the fan ofc. It doesn't run on the aircon either. Have swapped the relays and nothing doing. Haven't tried it on a direct feed yet though.
