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CherryVimto

CherryVimto

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
2,297
Location
Hampshire
I made a start on my new project today by preparing to remove the dash....

image.jpg1_zpstomo0q7w.jpg


...but found a few areas that had been riveted

image.jpg3_zpsxdbvmpw2.jpg


I knew the car had an aftermarket alarm fitted and managed to find it hidden behind the centre console...

image.jpg2_zps10hyrupc.jpg


I wasn't keen on the idea of having that wired in to the car, but I'm thinking about removing it and reinstalling it once I've finished the engine swap.
I just need to trace all of the wiring and work out how it's connected and to what.
 
Hi Barry

It's a 1.25 Mk4 Fezza (project title now changed) which I chose because I think it looks less attractive than the Mk5's. I'm not going for looks on this one.
I was going to buy one of these ages ago but Questy made me buy his Silver Puma instead!

I took a bit of a gamble on this. It wouldn't start when I went to look at it as it had been sitting on the guys drive for a few months and the battery was flat.
I looked around the body work and underneath. There is no rust in the usual 'Puma places' which is good enough for me, and considering I've found it's possible to get rear quarter panels and sills I'm more than happy with the outside looking a bit scruffy.

The guy got it going so I went back, had a listen to the engine and decided to buy it without test driving it. It had no tax so didn't want to risk taking it out on the road.

After I sorted insurance etc. I drove it back to my garage.
The brakes were useless as they had rusted over after sitting unused on the guys driveway.
The gearbox worked well but had no feeling as to where the gears were - the gear stick was a bit loose.
It's got a shot wheel bearing - I've not looked for which one it is yet.
Engine is sound considering it's done 144,000 miles.

But, considering I only paid £150 for it, I've got a bargain!

Parts I need to buy:
Engine loom - waiting for delivery
Battery
Battery holder - waiting for delivery
CAT - I think I know where I can 'borrow' one of them from
 
Unfortunately the weather hasn't been good enough to progress much further on this.

I've started disconnecting everything from the engine ready for its removal.

I think to make things easier I'm going to remove the front suspension (the wishbones will get replaced with poly bushed ones) and remove the driveshafts. I can then drop the gearbox & engine to the floor, remove the gearbox and pull the engine back out of the top.
I'm going to take a chance and keep the 1.25 gearbox and hope the Puma engine doesn't destroy it.

A couple of things I need to look at....
Fiesta gear stick has lost its spring and gear selection is a guess although easy to do. I want to remove the spring/necessary parts from my 1.7 gearbox. Is this an easy job to do and are there any compatibility issues that anyone knows about?

Compatibility of Puma loom and integration of that to the Fiesta loom.
 
The IB5 gearboxes were bulletproof in any application, and can take over 300bhp without breaking a sweat, so a few extra ponies will be fine. The ratios are different to the 1.7 box though, much shorter 1st and 2nd but overall not as close. 5th works out the same even though it is a longer gear than in the 1.7 but a shorter final drive makes them basically the same. To put it simply the non 1.7 boxes are better for acceleration but the 1.7s are better for track driving due to the closeness.

As for the selector assembly it's another case of whether Ford used what was on the shelf at the time, so they could be exactly the same or they could be completely different. You can't say until you get it in pieces.
 
Hi Guys
Isn't the RS Turbo box the older BC box with smaller diff bearings made out of cheese? :lol:
Barry
 
Yes, it is, but it was the OD of the bearings that was smaller. The ID is the same so you can safely use the IB5 bearings and they fit perfectly. The only thing to be sorted is the mating of crown wheel to the LSD itself. You need to machine down about half a mm of either LSD or crown wheel. WHen I installed RST LSD to my gearbox, I opted for machining (i.e enlarging the crown wheel a bit as that seemd more logical to me than messing around with LSD in the area where two halves meet...

This is the offending area the OD of LSD (the biggest part, where the two halves meet and are secured by two screws, not the one protruding up):



Machining of the crown wheel (of course, that means it will be useless for the standard diff as there will be gap)


And everything put together


Sorry for the thread highjack. If you need any specific infos, just ask
 
Thanks for the information on the diff, but I'm not going to be going in that direction.

A break in the weather saw a little progress today.

I've compared the wiring I wasn't sure about against my friends Zetec S Mk5 and it's the same as what's in mine so I'm confident the Puma loom will work straight off.

All coolant pipes and electrical connectors are disconnected from the engine. The radiator and fan have been removed to enable slightly better access and also as I'll be swapping them for Puma ones.
The next item will be to remove the exhaust manifold. After that I'm basically ready to pull the engine out.
 
Dont bother trying to remove the manifold in car.
just disconnect the exhaust at the 2 bolt flange
and drop the motor out with it still attatched..

As if by magic the engine balances perfectly with it and the inlet all attatched..
 
trublustu said:
Dont bother trying to remove the manifold in car.
just disconnect the exhaust at the 2 bolt flange
and drop the motor out with it still attatched..

As if by magic the engine balances perfectly with it and the inlet all attatched..
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip.

I've tried to remove the bolts on that flange on 2 different cars and both were a total B*steward to remove.

Everything I've taken off the Fiesta has come off without a problem so far, so I'm hoping that will continue!
 
I have managed to get the heat shield off from the top of the manifold.

The issue I have with cutting the flange bolts is that I'd have to do it by hand. The garage that the car is in is in the middle of a housing estate and has no electricity.
 
Ah. well you`ll have to get em off at some point.
If you realyl want to remove the mani/cat then you`ll need to find and undo the two bolts on the very back of the engine. (cat to block)
 
I've got the exhaust manifold unbolted from the engine.
All bolts came off really easy. I'm very impressed at how well this car is allowing me to pull it apart!

I got the aux belt & tensioner off and put on the Puma engine.
The PAS pump is coming off next but will be tied up out of the way and will be bolted back on to the Puma engine once that's fitted.

I'm hoping that at the weekend I can start pulling the engine out.
 
Well done Tony, it was the same on mine, all the manifold and heat shield bolts were easy but the joint underneath was a pig!
Barry
 
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