Idle Control Valve?

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SaintGrimm

New member
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
54
Can anyone tell me where it is? My Puma has some serious idle issues that aren't there higher up the rpm range (or anything over 2000 for that matter).

I suspect the icav just needs a clean. If only I knew where it was....
 
Here's the ICV:

album_picm.php


What are the symptoms?

Could also be:

Mass Air Flow Sensor (aka MAF):
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> Click here for guide on how to clean it <

Power steering pressure switch (near the front bumper, driver's side):
6896125965_6b01be8198_m.jpg


Clutch position switch:
image.php


Coil pack / HT leads / sparkplugs - change all of these at the same time as a problem with one can bollocks up the others.

More suggestions here (not specifically for the Puma, but many of the same problems/solutions apply):
http://thoms1.net/Ford/Reference/Idle.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Well that link means I'm going to have a crap couple of days :-(

The symptoms are (or that I have noticed);

-When I first start up the car the revs jump to around 2500rpm, hold there for a couple of seconds before dropping.
-Any RPM under 2000 and the car is horrible. I tested it by letting the revs drop below that and put my foot down. It resulted in a horribly jerky response.
-Once or twice it has stalled. It's always out of the blue.
-Leaving it on idle, the needle is never still, always up and down.

It's mainly just them. Sometimes, when I am coming into a slower part of town, if the needle drops past a certain RPM the car starts becoming horribly jerky so I have to change to a gear where rpm's are above 2k.

Above that though, when driving, take it all the way up to 6k without so much as a hitch. It's a horrible car to live with currently.
 
Do pumas have coil packs? Previous experience with a diff car say that but I dunno if puma have em. I would give everything a good clean n see what that'slike... I've got same job to do when its not raining (never then) cos mine won't idle steadily its always all over the shop!
 
SaintGrimm said:
-When I first start up the car the revs jump to around 2500rpm, hold there for a couple of seconds before dropping.
-Any RPM under 2000 and the car is horrible. I tested it by letting the revs drop below that and put my foot down. It resulted in a horribly jerky response.
-Once or twice it has stalled. It's always out of the blue.
-Leaving it on idle, the needle is never still, always up and down.

sounds more like one of the critical fueling sensors to me...

how old is the oxygen sensor... i'd be looking at that first... then i'd be buying a new ford Air flow sensor..

:grin:
 
I can't help thinking you'd be better off getting the car scanned for any fault codes rather than chucking parts at it hoping for a fix
 
I'll get the car scanned and if nothing comes up, I'll start from the top :)

Thanks all!
 
New symptoms!

When I fired it up last night I waited where I was to text and heard what sounded like a very low misfire. So I got out the car and walked around the back - there was nothing untoward with the sound from there so I popped the bonnet and the sound was emanating from the airbox. I squeezed the air pipe and held it, every time there was a misfire, I could feel it through the air feed. Very, very odd!

Does this help narrow it down?
 
im having th same issue but ive recently just done th clutch and have left th engine exposed to the weather, id removed my throttle unit for better access to the clutch, could it be needing a clean out
 
the icv and air mass unit, and could anyone tell me if a bad/corroded braided earth wire at the back of the engine could cause a bad idle
 
carmadcarl said:
[post]347110[/post] the icv and air mass unit, and could anyone tell me if a bad/corroded braided earth wire at the back of the engine could cause a bad idle

Potentially, yes.
 
I stead of getting in scanned , hold down the trip reset button and whilst keeping it held down turn the ignition on and start the car (make sure to hold the button even after its started) then the dials will read "test" then let go of trip reset button and you will see all guages max out and drop back again. After that press the trip button until you see DTC and if there's a code there google it. Keep.pressing.the trip.button to cycle through the error codes if there's more than one
 
The dash trick won't show up any engine codes, it displays a small amount of codes that relate to the clocks only
 
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