immobiliser/alarm/central locking

[e46 coupe]

hello again. neewbie here.
My puma bites back. Recently the immobiliser did a number on me. Initialy put all my amber lights on, also there is a amber "doors" light on the dashboard and it started the alarm on me while in use with it's original key in the ignition. i had to disconect the battery and after few minutes, when i reconnect it it started fine, except the little red light near the clock stays on all the time(??????)
My remote central locking is not working( even though the transmitter fob works), but the central locking(NOT THE ALARM!!) works fine with keys in the door locks.
As I couldn't put my central locking module in programming mode ==> so i can activate the remote system==>, and As I only have one chipped key, Ford tried to plug into my car but the car refused to let them in ( maybe my little cat is a transformer.........)
As we speak, the car starts even with the little red light on near the clock.
Localy there is a chap breaking a similar year Puma(1998) that has that alarm /immobiliser black box ( and he says in good working order)
My question to you all experienced Puma lovers is, if I replace that alarm/immobiliser/ central locking box(( black,situated in the drivers footwell) is it going to make it better or is going to mess with ECU, ignition, etc.... ??
Any experience in the matter please????........

 

[Anonymous]

The black box in the drivers footwell is for the central locking. Changing it will result in you having to re-programming the key to the locking system.

The immobilizer is part of the ECU. So, changing the black box in the drivers footwell will have no effect on the immobilizer.

 

[e46 coupe]

The black box in the drivers footwell is for the central locking. Changing it will result in you having to re-programming the key to the locking system.
The immobilizer is part of the ECU. So, changing the black box in the drivers footwell will have no effect on the immobilizer.

thanks fo reply!!
But would you consider the problem i had( with the alarm going off and indicators lighting up) would be the result of the central locking module only??
The car was running at all times with the original key.
Also is the original alarm into the same box or is it a separate unit?
Is it worth chancing replacing this central locking module or am I looking for (more!) trouble??

 

[Anonymous]

Alarm issues can be caused by a door, boot or bonnet switch being faulty or dislodged.
When you lock the car all could be fine, but when you unlock it, the switch may not make/break properly which makes the alarm system think something has been opened while the alarm is armed. This obviously sets the alarm off.

 

[cletus100]

The black box in the drivers footwell is for the central locking. Changing it will result in you having to re-programming the key to the locking system.
The immobilizer is part of the ECU. So, changing the black box in the drivers footwell will have no effect on the immobilizer.

thanks fo reply!!
But would you consider the problem i had( with the alarm going off and indicators lighting up) would be the result of the central locking module only??
The car was running at all times with the original key.
Also is the original alarm into the same box or is it a separate unit?
Is it worth chancing replacing this central locking module or am I looking for (more!) trouble??

You can carry out an alarm self test to make sure all the switches are working as they should.

The self-diagnostic mode can not be entered if the central locking system is activated.

To enter self-diagnostic mode, make sure the ignition is in the OFF position.

Operate any door ajar switch or the hood switch 6 times within 8 seconds.

Upon entering the self-diagnostic mode the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) Light Emitting Diode (LED) will illuminate continuously, the anti-theft alarm horn sounds once and the directional indicators flash once.

Each activation of a door ajar switch or hood switch is indicated by one short audible tone.

The activation of the ignition switch (from position 0 to II) is indicated by one short audible tone.

Each activation of a set/reset switch (located on the lock barrel of each front door) is indicated by one short audible tone, if the key is held in the lock/unlock position for a further three seconds the central locking signal (status of the lock/unlock lines) is also indicated by second short audible tone.

If there is no activation of any alarm switch for a period of 20 seconds, the system will exit the self-diagnostic mode (indicated by one short audible tone and a single flash from the directional indicators) and the PATS LED will extinguish.

Try this and see if it picks any fault up, usually the bonnet switch causes false triggers although as the car was running when it happens, may be a sign of dreaded water getting in somewhere?