mix2000
Active member
Some great work, I'm impressed 
k:
k:
learning about making carbon parts
- Thread starter warrenpenalver
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warrenpenalver
Active member
Time for a small update! Been busy with stuff, been ill and skint so not done much lately.
any restocked on carbon fibre:
got a lot of carbon material, resins and bagging materials to keep me busy.
Also moulded my carbon dinner plate:
just need to trim it and polish it.
any restocked on carbon fibre:
got a lot of carbon material, resins and bagging materials to keep me busy.
Also moulded my carbon dinner plate:
just need to trim it and polish it.
PumaJay
Active member
love the dinner plate! carbon knifes and forks next!
warrenpenalver
Active member
been doing a bit more work on bits lately!
First of all got a mate to take a photo of me standing on the carbon brake resevoir upper half i made:
no cracks or anything!! not bad for only 2 layers of carbon and 1 of kevlar!!
In preparation for making some body panels, i have been experimenting with using different core materials to stiffen the panels up. The main material i am choosing to use is closed cell foam as its much lighter than the equivilent thickness of carbon and when made as a sandwich panel makes the final panel very very strong yet still nice and light.
that is a small sample of the foam core. Because i am using resin infusion, you need to make small holes and score lines on it so that the resin can flow freely otherwise you risk the odd pin hole on the panels as the resin will be slowed down infusing under the foam. Obviously i dont want surface defects so prior preparation and all that!! the edges will also be sanded down to a shallow chamfer so the edge of the foam cannot be seen on the visible side of the panel.
To make my composite panels i need to decide on how many layers of material i want It is a fine balance between a stiff enough panel and lightness, so i have made some small trial panels.
Firstly laid up the two panels in a resin infusion on a base board:
then carried out the infusion:
there is no longer a neat line of resin flowing across the material as i used to have because i now use a perforated release film between the peel ply and the infusion mesh. Makes demoulding the part a piece of cake.
Once left to cure, i then cut out each panel.
As you can see i am now getting an almost flawless surface finish on my parts which is good as im mastering the technique nicely!!
Now on the reverse:
firstly its yellow as i used kevlar as the last layer. The top panel with the cut out carbon 4 on it is 4 layers of fabric, 3 carbon - 1 kevlar. The bottom one with the pacman is 3 layers, 2 carbon - 1kevlar. Used a pacman as its easier to cut than a 3 out of dry unwoven carbon LOL!!
just need to do some experimenting with the panels now. Already it looks like i may be forced to use 4 layers as with uneven layers either side of the foam, you get very slight warping of the panel. Obviously i want to avoid my panels being warped even slightly so i might have to use 4 layers, or move the kevlar layer to balance out the stack. 3 layers seems plenty stiff enough for my needs though. I reckon i can make a bonnet with no full inner frame except perhaps around hinges and an area for bonnet latch.
First of all got a mate to take a photo of me standing on the carbon brake resevoir upper half i made:
no cracks or anything!! not bad for only 2 layers of carbon and 1 of kevlar!!
In preparation for making some body panels, i have been experimenting with using different core materials to stiffen the panels up. The main material i am choosing to use is closed cell foam as its much lighter than the equivilent thickness of carbon and when made as a sandwich panel makes the final panel very very strong yet still nice and light.
that is a small sample of the foam core. Because i am using resin infusion, you need to make small holes and score lines on it so that the resin can flow freely otherwise you risk the odd pin hole on the panels as the resin will be slowed down infusing under the foam. Obviously i dont want surface defects so prior preparation and all that!! the edges will also be sanded down to a shallow chamfer so the edge of the foam cannot be seen on the visible side of the panel.
To make my composite panels i need to decide on how many layers of material i want It is a fine balance between a stiff enough panel and lightness, so i have made some small trial panels.
Firstly laid up the two panels in a resin infusion on a base board:
then carried out the infusion:
there is no longer a neat line of resin flowing across the material as i used to have because i now use a perforated release film between the peel ply and the infusion mesh. Makes demoulding the part a piece of cake.
Once left to cure, i then cut out each panel.
As you can see i am now getting an almost flawless surface finish on my parts which is good as im mastering the technique nicely!!
Now on the reverse:
firstly its yellow as i used kevlar as the last layer. The top panel with the cut out carbon 4 on it is 4 layers of fabric, 3 carbon - 1 kevlar. The bottom one with the pacman is 3 layers, 2 carbon - 1kevlar. Used a pacman as its easier to cut than a 3 out of dry unwoven carbon LOL!!
just need to do some experimenting with the panels now. Already it looks like i may be forced to use 4 layers as with uneven layers either side of the foam, you get very slight warping of the panel. Obviously i want to avoid my panels being warped even slightly so i might have to use 4 layers, or move the kevlar layer to balance out the stack. 3 layers seems plenty stiff enough for my needs though. I reckon i can make a bonnet with no full inner frame except perhaps around hinges and an area for bonnet latch.
warrenpenalver
Active member
Been making a mould for a lifeline fire extinguisher.
This post will show the whole mould making.
Ok first of all this is the part i am making:
Needs to be cleaned up, polished and tidied a little. The holes and ends need filling so it can take a mould.
First of all i began by making the end plates out of plasticard. They are held in place with plasticine to support them and fill the gaps.
Ive gone quite chunky with the supports, and also taped over the strap holes so they can be filled from the other side later.
Made a baseboard out of card covered in the cheapest brown packing tape i can find. Resin doesnt stick to the tape you see!!
Then mounted the mount to the board with double sided tape. Then proceeded to use moulding wax to seal around the edge between the base board and part so that resin doesnt seep under and create a mechanical lock when it comes to demoulding.
also filled in the mounting hole with wax too. There will be a slight impression on the carbon so new ones can be drilled. Did the same with the slots for the extinguisher metal straps:
Finished the wax all the way round and filled all the holes.
Just need to add approx 8 layers of mould release agent then its time to consider making the mould!!
First i had to paint the waxed "plug" with tooling gelcoat:
Left it until just beginning to set then added another layer, which was left until tacky. Thicker the better as it means you can sand things and tweak the mould if needs be without risking breaking through to the reinforcement underneath.
Then used some carbon offcuts for the tight corners and to add some strenth:
Then started layering on the fiberglass until i got to layer 4 where i added coremat to thicken up the mould. Coremat will stiffen the mould massively yet weighs much less than an equivilent thickness of fibreglass.
then another 3 layers of fibreglass and its time to leave it to set:
let the mould cure 24hours.
First thing to do is remove the baseboard. It prises off dead easy showing the release agent works well.
Next you need to prise out some of the wax and plasticine flanges with a flat blade:
Once the flange is off you can see underneath:
Then you need to dig out the wax around the edge of the part so you can get under the part to release it from the mould:
It was really tightly in the mould due to the vertical edges so a few taps with a rubber mallet was needed to get it moving, then using a pry bar on the edges to wiggle the part out of the mould. Luckily when making the carbon parts it will be much easier as the carbon will flex a little bit easier than the aluminium.
Part out the mould you can see the copied shape easily:
On looking closer, the surface is in good condition so will only need a few prising scratches sanded out:
all that needs to be done now is trim the edges of the mould, sand some of the flange edges on the mould to make part release easier next time, and a bit of polishing, then its ready for making a carbon part!!
This post will show the whole mould making.
Ok first of all this is the part i am making:
Needs to be cleaned up, polished and tidied a little. The holes and ends need filling so it can take a mould.
First of all i began by making the end plates out of plasticard. They are held in place with plasticine to support them and fill the gaps.
Ive gone quite chunky with the supports, and also taped over the strap holes so they can be filled from the other side later.
Made a baseboard out of card covered in the cheapest brown packing tape i can find. Resin doesnt stick to the tape you see!!
Then mounted the mount to the board with double sided tape. Then proceeded to use moulding wax to seal around the edge between the base board and part so that resin doesnt seep under and create a mechanical lock when it comes to demoulding.
also filled in the mounting hole with wax too. There will be a slight impression on the carbon so new ones can be drilled. Did the same with the slots for the extinguisher metal straps:
Finished the wax all the way round and filled all the holes.
Just need to add approx 8 layers of mould release agent then its time to consider making the mould!!
First i had to paint the waxed "plug" with tooling gelcoat:
Left it until just beginning to set then added another layer, which was left until tacky. Thicker the better as it means you can sand things and tweak the mould if needs be without risking breaking through to the reinforcement underneath.
Then used some carbon offcuts for the tight corners and to add some strenth:
Then started layering on the fiberglass until i got to layer 4 where i added coremat to thicken up the mould. Coremat will stiffen the mould massively yet weighs much less than an equivilent thickness of fibreglass.
then another 3 layers of fibreglass and its time to leave it to set:
let the mould cure 24hours.
First thing to do is remove the baseboard. It prises off dead easy showing the release agent works well.
Next you need to prise out some of the wax and plasticine flanges with a flat blade:
Once the flange is off you can see underneath:
Then you need to dig out the wax around the edge of the part so you can get under the part to release it from the mould:
It was really tightly in the mould due to the vertical edges so a few taps with a rubber mallet was needed to get it moving, then using a pry bar on the edges to wiggle the part out of the mould. Luckily when making the carbon parts it will be much easier as the carbon will flex a little bit easier than the aluminium.
Part out the mould you can see the copied shape easily:
On looking closer, the surface is in good condition so will only need a few prising scratches sanded out:
all that needs to be done now is trim the edges of the mould, sand some of the flange edges on the mould to make part release easier next time, and a bit of polishing, then its ready for making a carbon part!!
Reechard
New member
Some good work here.
I work making boat frames from fibreglass using resin injection moulds, and this is very similar, only you are making carbon parts. I have been meaning to do something like this for a while now.
A tip for your catch pot is to put some carboard over the tub inside. The make a hole for the pipe to feed the excess resin into it. Stops the resin from splashing up and covering the catch pot.
I work making boat frames from fibreglass using resin injection moulds, and this is very similar, only you are making carbon parts. I have been meaning to do something like this for a while now.
A tip for your catch pot is to put some carboard over the tub inside. The make a hole for the pipe to feed the excess resin into it. Stops the resin from splashing up and covering the catch pot.
warrenpenalver
Active member
Thanks for the tip, shall try that one out!!
Got the dremel and permagrit cutting discs out and trimmed all the rough fibreglass edges. Then used a sanding drum on the dremel to blunt all the edges as well as fettle the edges of the mould itself to make it slightly smoother and easier to work with later.
I then did a postcure in the oven!! technically at room temperature it can take a week or 2 for the resins fully to 100% cure and achieve maximum strength. This can be speeded up in the oven as well as the unique properties of epoxies meaning that a good bake actually means the end product ends up stronger than curing at room temperature.
The next stage is to fettle the mould with wet and dry sandpapers and then polish it up ready for use to make parts.
I have also got some sample materials to play with!
Its a carbon fibre woven tube, used in aerospace, prosthetic manufacture and simple tube manufacture! It is quite stretchable and much less fragile than normal carbon fabric.
Got the dremel and permagrit cutting discs out and trimmed all the rough fibreglass edges. Then used a sanding drum on the dremel to blunt all the edges as well as fettle the edges of the mould itself to make it slightly smoother and easier to work with later.
I then did a postcure in the oven!! technically at room temperature it can take a week or 2 for the resins fully to 100% cure and achieve maximum strength. This can be speeded up in the oven as well as the unique properties of epoxies meaning that a good bake actually means the end product ends up stronger than curing at room temperature.
The next stage is to fettle the mould with wet and dry sandpapers and then polish it up ready for use to make parts.
I have also got some sample materials to play with!
Its a carbon fibre woven tube, used in aerospace, prosthetic manufacture and simple tube manufacture! It is quite stretchable and much less fragile than normal carbon fabric.
warrenpenalver
Active member
bit of an update. Been making some more carbon dinner plates.
I now add a layer of kevlar into the plate so its impact proof:
Also in this photo of the infusion process, you can see how the addition of the layer of perforated release film effects the resin flow with little blobs rather than a regular line of resin flow.
They are coming out ok now:
also experimented with lacquering the rear of the plate so you can see the weave on both sides which usually you cant on carbon parts.
Also finished prepping the mould for extinguisher mounts and started to do my first layup. The shape is a lot easier to lay the carbon in:
also adding a layer of kevlar so that worst case in a heavy crash the mount stays intact even if it was crushed/smashed up so the extinguisher cant break free.
Bagged it all up ready for resin infusion and its just sitting under vacuum to test the bag for leaks then i will infuse the part.
Also got myself a spare bonnet so i can make a mould of that!!
I now add a layer of kevlar into the plate so its impact proof:
Also in this photo of the infusion process, you can see how the addition of the layer of perforated release film effects the resin flow with little blobs rather than a regular line of resin flow.
They are coming out ok now:
also experimented with lacquering the rear of the plate so you can see the weave on both sides which usually you cant on carbon parts.
Also finished prepping the mould for extinguisher mounts and started to do my first layup. The shape is a lot easier to lay the carbon in:
also adding a layer of kevlar so that worst case in a heavy crash the mount stays intact even if it was crushed/smashed up so the extinguisher cant break free.
Bagged it all up ready for resin infusion and its just sitting under vacuum to test the bag for leaks then i will infuse the part.
Also got myself a spare bonnet so i can make a mould of that!!
warrenpenalver
Active member
little update. Made my first extinguisher mount in the mould.
all went well except demoulding which took an hour with a pry bar and various tools!!! I think i shall cut up the mould a bit to make it easier in future!!!
Also added a little logo to the underside of the part before infusion:
Might do that on all the parts i make so in future its easy to identify bits ive made.
Also bought my new bonnet inside to get it ready to be moulded:
all went well except demoulding which took an hour with a pry bar and various tools!!! I think i shall cut up the mould a bit to make it easier in future!!!
Also added a little logo to the underside of the part before infusion:
Might do that on all the parts i make so in future its easy to identify bits ive made.
Also bought my new bonnet inside to get it ready to be moulded:
warrenpenalver
Active member
Cleaned the bonnet up then stripped the underside of all the liners and washer pipes that will just get in the way:
Also removed the washer jets, then cleaned the bonnet including claying it to get rid of any tars or dirt that could mess things up.
Also went round the bonnet with 2000 grit wet and dry to sand down any stone chips so they are more or less smooth including these two slightly bigger ones:
they will mostly be filled with wax so will have little impact. Also with the mould being the reverse image there will be a slight bump rather than dink so its easily sanded flat when i sand the mould.
the next stage is to get the wax going!
Needs a minimum of 5 layers of wax although i will be doing more like 8 to be safe.
Also almost finished a couple of plates now:
Just need sanding down to smooth the lacquer out then a good polish up.
as you can see, proper size dinner plates!!
Also started my next item to mould which is a centre console/gear lever surround. Flatted the horrible eggshell found on most ford interior panels then sprayed on several layers of high build primer which i will flat down nice and smooth to get a good finish.
Also removed the washer jets, then cleaned the bonnet including claying it to get rid of any tars or dirt that could mess things up.
Also went round the bonnet with 2000 grit wet and dry to sand down any stone chips so they are more or less smooth including these two slightly bigger ones:
they will mostly be filled with wax so will have little impact. Also with the mould being the reverse image there will be a slight bump rather than dink so its easily sanded flat when i sand the mould.
the next stage is to get the wax going!
Needs a minimum of 5 layers of wax although i will be doing more like 8 to be safe.
Also almost finished a couple of plates now:
Just need sanding down to smooth the lacquer out then a good polish up.
as you can see, proper size dinner plates!!
Also started my next item to mould which is a centre console/gear lever surround. Flatted the horrible eggshell found on most ford interior panels then sprayed on several layers of high build primer which i will flat down nice and smooth to get a good finish.
warrenpenalver
Active member
LOL just made the plates for fun!!
Only small update tonight. Been polishing the bonnet loads. Nothing to really see from that really!!
only thing to show is ive filled in the washer jet holes with plasticard for the moulding. Should still have a small line around the edge of where the washer jet is on the finished part. that way I know where to cut without measuring.
Only small update tonight. Been polishing the bonnet loads. Nothing to really see from that really!!
only thing to show is ive filled in the washer jet holes with plasticard for the moulding. Should still have a small line around the edge of where the washer jet is on the finished part. that way I know where to cut without measuring.
warrenpenalver
Active member
Ive decided to remake the extinguisher mount mould as with it enclosed vertically on all sides its the biggest pain to demould parts without damaging them so im making the ends of the mould open so in theory its only 2 vertical surfaces to prise off rather than 4!!
Just got to wax it, then gel coat and fibreglass then i can start again!!
Also made a sign for the new office door at work:
bit rough around edges but they dont care.
Just got to wax it, then gel coat and fibreglass then i can start again!!
Also made a sign for the new office door at work:
bit rough around edges but they dont care.
warrenpenalver
Active member
small update as im busy making some bits for ford fair.
first of all made a "minimilist" carbon wall clock:
also made my mould for the centre console!! came out brilliantly!
hopefully i will have a first go at moulding a part later this week then if all goes well I will be ready to produce the console.
first of all made a "minimilist" carbon wall clock:
also made my mould for the centre console!! came out brilliantly!
hopefully i will have a first go at moulding a part later this week then if all goes well I will be ready to produce the console.
Reechard
New member
How much for a plate? I want one lol
warrenpenalver
Active member
lol i doubt i will be making plates to sell. plates were just for fun.
Reechard
New member
I still want one pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
I'll be wanting a bonnet, boot and doors too if you get round to making them.
I'll be wanting a bonnet, boot and doors too if you get round to making them.
yippeekiay
Well-known member
I was going to ask for a plate...and a knife, fork, spoon/teaspoon and mug too....lol.
warrenpenalver
Active member
lol. i might have to release a "novelty" range in time for xmas :twisted: if the demand is high enough!
warrenpenalver
Active member
ok continueing with the center console, I spent ages sanding the mould down and polishing it up to achieve a good finish. The mould was then coated with my release agent and ready to lay the carbon in. This is the second layer going on:
The shape is very complicated so i have been forced to use a mixture of pre-preg and normal carbons. Pre-preg is slightly sticky and easily cut so is ideal for the surface layer so the carbon holds itself in the mould better. The con is its horrendously expensive and will require extensive baking for hours in the oven, much to my housemates annoyance!! Finished off the layup of carbon using normal cloth for the bits underneath.
Took several hours and im hoping I can do it a bit quicker on future examples. Ive also added a kevlar submarine as a bit of a logo so i can identify my bits in the future:
I then started to add the bagging stack starting with the peel ply:
this was followed by the release film and the infusion mesh. You can see in this picture how complicated it is to cover all of the part necessitating a fair bit of chopping about compared to flatter shapes:
I also added an extra bit of resin feed spiral to the the top of the mould to insure the whole part gets enough resin flow. The bag film was then added and ive drawn a vacum. Pleanty of pleating is necessary to ensure enough film to fill the complicated shape.
I am now testing the vacuum for the next few hours to make sure the seal is good enough. I will do the infusion and baking this evening.
The shape is very complicated so i have been forced to use a mixture of pre-preg and normal carbons. Pre-preg is slightly sticky and easily cut so is ideal for the surface layer so the carbon holds itself in the mould better. The con is its horrendously expensive and will require extensive baking for hours in the oven, much to my housemates annoyance!! Finished off the layup of carbon using normal cloth for the bits underneath.
Took several hours and im hoping I can do it a bit quicker on future examples. Ive also added a kevlar submarine as a bit of a logo so i can identify my bits in the future:
I then started to add the bagging stack starting with the peel ply:
this was followed by the release film and the infusion mesh. You can see in this picture how complicated it is to cover all of the part necessitating a fair bit of chopping about compared to flatter shapes:
I also added an extra bit of resin feed spiral to the the top of the mould to insure the whole part gets enough resin flow. The bag film was then added and ive drawn a vacum. Pleanty of pleating is necessary to ensure enough film to fill the complicated shape.
I am now testing the vacuum for the next few hours to make sure the seal is good enough. I will do the infusion and baking this evening.
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