LED 'bulbs' replacing the dim candles

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I've found these guys selling good quality LED replacement bulbs (as well as stuff for the home etc...)

http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Have ordered (and received, in about 3 days) 2x6W stop/tail BA15d bulbs and I was impressed with the superb quality (they are all-metal) and are much brighter than the original BA15d bulbs, I was impressed.
6wba.jpg

Note there are 6x 1W LEDs (!), 4 of which are NOT facing forwards but to the side as this is where most of the light should be produced (in conjunction with the reflector in your lights). Therefore you get a proper spread of light in the lens, not just a dot in the middle.

For those interested, they do an all-metal 1W sidelight fitting that is designed to survive high heat conditions (i.e. Puma headlight) and are designed to self dim should they become too hot and destroy themselves.
501whp4.jpg


Not eBay cheap but then not eBay quality either- they have a 2 year guarantee and they are a UK company.

Just ordered the BA15s 6W type bulb in amber for the front and rear indicators along with the modified flasher relay they sell for LED conversions and an 11w LED for the interior light. Yes I know the front indicator fitting is offset pin so I'm filing one of the pins off!

So apart from the reversing/headlights/sidelights (i.e. white lights) I'll be all LED soon.
 
Dal said:
hopefully oncoming traffic at junctions, turnings etc. may see me a bit better when I'm driving about on just these during a dim day.

Please don't.

If it is dull enough to consider using any lights at all then get your dipped beams on and people will see you.
 
is there a how to.... on removing the front headlights as i cant get to the back of the pass side one to get the bulbs out as the air con pipes get well in the way!!! so if i can get the whole light out would be grand
 
Luke, it's reasonably easy.

Lights off.
Open Bonnet.
Remove 2 screws in the radiator grille and pull out the grille.
Removed the 2 screws in the light assembly and turn the retainer as far as it will go.
Pull out the light assembly (May require you to be firm and some jiggling toward you)
Un-clip the electrical connector and drainage tube (tube just pulls off)
Light should now be free.
Put light on carpet or soft cloth to avoid scratching
Release wire clips on both sides then remove rear cover.
Twist/pull out the bulbs as required and replace.
Fit back in the reverse order.

Hope this helps :)
 
lukepuma said:
is there a how to.... on removing the front headlights as i cant get to the back of the pass side one to get the bulbs out as the air con pipes get well in the way!!! so if i can get the whole light out would be grand

i was like you but its states in manual a step by step of how to do it, and its very easy, well if managed to do it im sure anyone can :derr:
:D
 
Has anyone changed the other bulbs with Leds?

I'm asking for a very good reason. I ordered bulbs last night, got a bit carried away and bought some for the interior and some 501s for the No plate lamp and bootlight.
 
Right...I may have got to the bottom of my LED problems.

I have replaced the 5w glovebox light with one of these:
newfestoon.jpg


Initially it didin't work. Luckily the glovebox light fitting uses spade connectors so I reversed them. It now works :cool:

Another set of LED replacement bulbs- of a different type to before- have arrived for the indicators (one pair opposite pin bulbs for the rear, one pair of offset pin bulbs for the front) and guess what, they don't work either...
Which got me thinking, I have a sneaky suspicion the wiring in all these amber LEDs I am buying for the indicators are in fact wired in reverse polarity from the factory wiring for the indicators and reversing lights in the Puma. I'm going to use my front indicators for testing the theory as I've already spliced the internal cables with bullet connectors after my DRL epsiode. I'll report back my findiings...

Hopefully this means I'll be able to use the LED bulbs for all the indicators (in conjunction with the LED replacement flasher unit I have) if all I need to do is reverse the polarity of the wires :cool: Of course reversing hte polarity has no effect if reverting back to tungsten bulbs as they work regardless of polarity.
 
Right...I may have got to the bottom of my LED problems.

I have replaced the 5w glovebox light with one of these:
newfestoon.jpg


Initially it didin't work. Luckily the glovebox light fitting uses spade connectors so I reversed them. It now works :cool:

Another set of LED replacement bulbs- of a different type to before- have arrived for the indicators (one pair opposite pin bulbs for the rear, one pair of offset pin bulbs for the front) and guess what, they don't work either...
Which got me thinking, I have a sneaky suspicion the wiring in all these amber LEDs I am buying for the indicators are in fact wired in reverse polarity from the factory wiring for the indicators and reversing lights in the Puma. I'm going to use my front indicators for testing the theory as I've already spliced the internal cables with bullet connectors after my DRL epsiode. I'll report back my findiings...

Hopefully this means I'll be able to use the LED bulbs for all the indicators (in conjunction with the LED replacement flasher unit I have) if all I need to do is reverse the polarity of the wires :cool: Of course reversing hte polarity has no effect if reverting back to tungsten bulbs as they work regardless of polarity.
 
Update:
New electronic LED flasher relay fitted and all working...

The polarity of the REAR indicator wiring is reverse polarity from how the bulbs are made yet the fronts are OK. The same appears to be true also of the reversing light connection as I tried to test the bulbs there and they originally failed to work. Of course tungsten bulbs are not polarity dependent whereas LEDs are...

Therefore I swapped the polarity of the rear indicator wiring by using bullet connectors and the LEDs work. Have fitted the 30W LED flasher unit which works but it no longer makes a clicking sound...I suspect when I put in the higher wattage LEDs that I have ordered the sound should return! Only problem are the inferior LED bulbs I have aren't really bright which is why I have reordered the higher wattage ones.

Interestingly, I first fitted a pair of LED stop/tail bulbs to the rear and these worked straight away- no need to reverse polarity...but then these are 'double' filament type bulbs rather than single base.

So, if you have LED replacement bulbs that don't seem to work at all, check the wiring polarity! With the indicator/reversing light type bulbs you cannot change the polarity of the bulb itself be removing it and putting it back in the other way so the only solution is the reverse the polarity of the wiring itself...

Hope this helps those who fancy changing theirs...

Pics:
Original Ford Relay
relayold1.jpg

relayold2.jpg


New one just plugs in (it's the bright red box under the stalks!)
relaynew1.jpg

relaynew2.jpg


Steering column with shroud removed:
scomr.jpg

scomt.jpg


And finally- make sure you disconnect the battery earth if you decide to remove the stalks...when you pull the stalks up the horn goes off and you can't switch it off until you put the stalks back again...
 
Looks like UltraLEDs no longer wish to deal with me. Shame. I'd spent quite a bit with them and the problems I'd had (and fed back to them) obviously wasn't appreciated.

"Hi, I am sorry but we are unable to supply you in future. I have refunded your card."

Well I've learnt a bit and can now source stuff myself, including some even more powerful LEDs and a further uprated electronic relay which should hopefully click! Half price too. Watch this space!
 
They obviously know of the faults you were highlighting; have not intent to resolve and hence get rid of you and continue selling duff stuff?

That's what is sounds like.

Watching this space though!!
 
For those interested, they do an all-metal 1W sidelight fitting that is designed to survive high heat conditions (i.e. Puma headlight) and are designed to self dim should they become too hot and destroy themselves.


Not eBay cheap but then not eBay quality either- they have a 2 year guarantee and they are a UK company.

Just ordered the BA15s 6W type bulb in amber for the front and rear indicators along with the modified flasher relay they sell for LED conversions and an 11w LED for the interior light. Yes I know the front indicator fitting is offset pin so I'm filing one of the pins off!

Quick question Colin, did you have to modify the fixing for this, as they just come with a circuit board with some solder points?
 
rboteler said:
Quick question Colin, did you have to modify the fixing for this, as they just come with a circuit board with some solder points?

All the bulbs I bought are designed to fit straight into the existing fittings...the new ones come as both straight (rear indicators) and offset (front indicators) pins so are a straight swap.

The relay is also a straight swap, just unplug the old and plug in the new.

The rear indicator wires were cut and bullet connector crimped on to swap the polarity.
 
Video of my LED conversion...having a bit of fun really attempting some sort of light show to music :p
[youtube]http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=RSeUTJTFMT0[/youtube]

Bulbs used:
Indicators front/rear 13W LED bulbs with electronic relay, 6W side/brake LED rear light bulbs, 80LED 3rd brake light in rear headlining, 35W halogen reversing lights, standard no. plate and rear fog lights, 1W LED side repeater bulbs, red interior LED bulb, white LED glovebox light.
 
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