Need help with changing brake pads and disc.

[chukz00]

A couple of days ago I have attempted to change the front brake pads and discs myself. I have all the tools you normally require to do the job (7mm allen key + 13mm wrench).

When I tried taking the caliper off, the allen key was slipping and so was the wrench. Looks like I have the wrong size tools, does anyone know WHAT exactly you need to do the job? Because alot of people are saying different things on here. :?

Thanks for your help!

 

[quest63]

I had a hell of a job getting some calipers off a puma recently and had to buy some irwen sockets that cut into rounded nuts and use a three foot breaker bar as well. Thanks to a national tyre company using a billion psi on their ratchets.

13mm is correct iirc

What was the Allen key for by the way?

I can only suggest better sockets or maybe hammering a half inch socket instead of 13mm might help if the nuts rounded off

 

[chukz00]

Thanks for your help! Yeah i dont know how the hell they put the nuts on so tight

The allen key is off a toolkit for bikes, only comes milimetres so 6mm, 7mm, 8mm...
So can i take the calipers off with just the right allen key?

 

[quest63]

I cant remember any allen key being needed for calipers at all maybe 1.4's are different to 1.7's

 

[Sjoerd]

Should be just a 13mm wrench. They can be tightened pretty damn hard. Too much torque and Loc-tite... :roll: Long ago I had the exact same on my Fiesta; I rounded the bolts so I had to drive 20km on my bike to borrow a Metrinch socket to cut the bolt head up.
I think a M8 should normally be on 30Nm +/- 3 on a tightening without 'stretching' it (think the right translation is creep but I'm not sure). Then it'd be about 85Nm. The bolts are one time use then. Atleast that's how we do it in our factory.. I'm pretty sure there is an DIN standard for it (which Ford uses).

 

[lusid666]

I did mine with a 7mm allen key, it goes into the end of the slide pins so you dont have to remove the caliper carrier.

 

[quest63]

:thumbs:

 

[Vincethunder682]

I know this an old thread but just had the same thing with the silly badly designed 13mm carrier bolts I knew as soon as I looked at them they were going to be trouble and what would have been a 1 hour job turned in to 5 hours I hammered a 12mm spanner on and managed to undo one side the other side was worse so used a 12mm hex socket got one off but socket was now split so borrowed another 12mm socket off a neighbour with a promise to get him a new one as it would be ruined after anyway after a few attempts finally go it off now you can buy these 13mm bolts on ebay for a few quid but even new they look rubbish as there is very little of the actual bolt to grip on, being a hoarder it didn't take me long to route through my shed and fund 4 bolts with the same thread and length and far better than the original ones as these have hex type heads in fact they are seat ancorage or maybe seat belt bolt from a 97 mondeo I changed the seats in years ago

 

[lusid666]

One thing I learned very quickly when working on my puma is WD40, WD40, WD40!!! Try to plan ahead if you can and give any nuts/bolt your going to undo a good squirt everyday for a few days before you do the job. Helps loads