oil grades for racing

[Darvillej]

HI all

Going to be taking our college puma out for its first shakedown run at Santapod 29 March at RUN WHAT YOU BRUNG DAY.

1/What engine oil thinner I think?
2/ What G/box oil would you recommend?
3/How to make it faster?

Brakes ,suspension,belts,roll cage,strip out. steering geometry, braided hoses, seat & frame,
Perspex window all done to MSA spec.

That is the safety done need some advice on making it quicker next year to sprint race it.
Have also removed and blanked the headlamp holes

PS Feel free to come over and have a chat if any of the forum are going!

 

[adampuma]

Tape ecu with torque limiter switch for 1st and 2nd gear for acceleration

 

[Darvillej]

Tell me more about taping the ECU???????????????

 

[oilburner]

Don't tape the ECU! It's one of the different ECU names! There's TAPE,MUFF,DIVE and some others I've forgotten

 

[Darvillej]

Ok so need to fit a torque limiter switch to what ?

The ECU?

How do I find what ECU I have?

Jimmy Cliff

(There are more questions than answers)

 

[adampuma]

Torque limiter switch cuts out the signal to the ecu letting you have maximum torque in 1/2 gears, just cut the brown wire going to the gearbox and run an in-line switch to your dash somewhere, there is a big noticeable difference in pulling off, either that or get a remapped tape ecu, tape ecu's give more pops/bangs and are generally a little bit quicker than the other ecu's
Also change air filter and deresonate the airbox and do the frp mod, you can search up all of this stuff on here using the search.
Breathing mods are the best

 

[adampuma]

It says what ecu u have on the side of your ecu which is next to your glovebox just above the fuel cut off switch, its pop rivetted in place

 

[stumc]

as for oil if youre just doing a 1/4 mile day youre fine on standard 5w30 oil as per ford specs. the engine wont be getting hot enough to really make any odds as youre only giving it the beans for 15seconds or so at a time.

to make it quicker for cheap, weight saving is the cheapest way. take everything off the car that isnt required.

to get off the line as efficiently as possible, disconnect the front antiroll bar as this can induce wheelspin. also drop your front tyre pressures to about 15 and increase your rears to about 60.

 

[Darvillej]

Thanks guys most every thing I needed at present thanks.

 

[Darvillej]

 

[stumc]

still loads of weight to be taken out of there!!

does it have to be road legal?

 

[Darvillej]

No will not be road legal but will have to comply with the MSA regs so we can sprint it next academic year (Sept 2014).
Will not have time to do the dash before Santa pod on the 27th next month.
Lots off spares if their is anyone wanting to take it as a job lot from the college. Cheques would go direct to the college not me.
I do have an excel list of the parts.

 

[stumc]

the dash isnt a tough job to remove, just fiddly getting at all the clips for the loom on the back. can have it out in 30minutes or so though. the dash and heater matrix weight a fair old amount.

worth getting a heat gun and chisel/scraper to the sound deadening on the floors and rear 1/4 panels, rubbish job but a decent ammount of weight in it all. things like the wheel arch liners, those metal weights on the front struts can be replaced with a washer, the rear wiper if its not gone already, various plastic trim around the engine bay, exhuast heat shields, all things that can be just removed and will all add up.