Preparing a cambelt change

[JAC]

I know this is a regular subject here, and that it has been posted so many times before that everyone is sick of hearing about it, but please bear with me.

I have searched and read as many posts and threads on this as possible, some with very useful information and some with scary information :-D

As English is not my first language, and I am not a mechanic, all my mechanical experience has been watching my partner and dealing with parts and stuff in Spanish (he doesn't speak a word of English ) so I am having difficulties with some of the abreviations used. A lot of them I can find online and work out what they are, but then struggle trying to explain in Spanish what I am on about to my partner!

Anyways, to the point...

We are preparing to do the cambelt change on the Puma, we are going to do this ourselves as I cannot find a garage that has actually done one before (although they all say it's easy, just like any car, which is worrying). We have never done a VCT engine before, so we will be following instructions, just like the garage but for 400€ less

I have downloaded the Gates Bulletin #036 from here:
http://ww2.gates.com/europe/file_display_common.cfm?thispath=Europe/documents_module&file=TB_036_E2_K035433XS.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have ordered the Cambelt kit, which included the belt, tensioner and bolts.

I am looking for a camshaft setting tool, hopefully I will get one within a week.

I am ordering an auxilary belt, although this was changed recently, it can´t hurt right?

I am ordering a water pump, just to change it at the same time as it has never been changed (75k miles, 17 years).

I have read numerous posts and threads about issues, and although most of it seems like a foreign language to me (which it is ), I think I can explain, and at least know where to look when he asks me a question. I have also bookmarked Pumanoobs video on timing.

So, if you don't mind, can I just run through the procedure with you guys to make sure I am getting this right from the bulletin.

1. Make sure engine is at "Top Dead Center"

2. Insert crankshaft pin and setting tool on camshaft (I understand this will only fit one way)

3. Hold each camshaft in place with a 12mm spanner and loosen camshaft sprocket bolts (for this I don't need to remove the setting tool, just make sure to hold each camshaft firmly with spanner so as to not put pressure on the camshafts against the tool. The order of camshafts doesn't matter).

4. Move tensioner out of belt with 12mm spanner until the locking pin (which comes with the setting kit) can be inserted.

5. Remove the bottom bolt of the tensioner.

6. Remove belt retainer (I haven't seen a photo of this, but I guess it is pretty self-explanitory)

7. Remove belt and tensioner.

8. Install new tensioner.

9. Tighten top bolt of tensioner to torque (what torque?) leaving bottom bolt loose.

10. Install new belt

11. Install belt retainer and tighten to 9Nm

12. Pull the pin inserted in step 4 out a few mm.

13. The bottom bolt of tensioner should now be to the right side of the hole.

14. Tighten bottom bolt of tensioner to 20Nm

15. Remove the pin inserted in step 4 completely.

16. Insert crank shaft pulley (when was this removed?)

17. Insert new crank shaft pulley bolt included in Cambelt Kit

18. Tighten crank shaft pulley bolt to 40Nm, the tighten an extra 90º

19. Make sure engine is still at "Top Dead Center"

20. Tighten camshaft bolts, inlet to 105Nm and exhaust to 60Nm, while holding camshafts with 12mm spanner (doesn't matter in which order)

21. Remove the setting tool from the crankshafts (so this was left in place the whole time?)

22. Turn engine 2 whole turns by hand to "Top Dead Center" and check that setting tool will fit back on camshaft (and this step can be repeated just for ease of mind).


So, am I understanding this correctly, and are there any steps along the way where doing something "extra" will help?

Again, I apologize for repeating a subject that has been posted so many times!!

Thank you all!

 

[tuonokid]

Hi JAC
You need to read through the Ford ETIS guide for this procedure but more importantly if you are doing this job with the engine in the car you will need the special tools as detailed in the Ford guide. The problem with working on this engine is there are no woodruff keys on either camshafts or the crankshaft and so tightening the fastening bolts for the pulleys can actually rotate the shaft therefore knocking the timing out. This is particularly likely on the crankshaft bolt as the force required to tighten it is huge. If you have a look on my build thread it shows the tools required and also some of the processes.
The other way of doing this job is to take the engine out and use a locking device on the flywheel to stop the crankshaft from turning.
The good news from your post is that you understand the tensioner procedure but make sure all the pulleys are free to turn when you tension it.
Lastly don't use the timing tools as locking tools or you will break the camshafts or the crankshaft timing pin.
Good luck
Barry

 

[joedeltahf]

http://www.gates.com/europe/file_display_common.cfm?thispath=Europe%2Fdocuments_module&file=TB_036_E2_K035433XS%2Epdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=22948&hilit=gates+guide" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


gates guide is a must, make sure you get the tensioning sequence correct

 

[JAC]

Hi JAC
You need to read through the Ford ETIS guide for this procedure but more importantly if you are doing this job with the engine in the car you will need the special tools as detailed in the Ford guide. The problem with working on this engine is there are no woodruff keys on either camshafts or the crankshaft and so tightening the fastening bolts for the pulleys can actually rotate the shaft therefore knocking the timing out. This is particularly likely on the crankshaft bolt as the force required to tighten it is huge. If you have a look on my build thread it shows the tools required and also some of the processes.
The other way of doing this job is to take the engine out and use a locking device on the flywheel to stop the crankshaft from turning.
The good news from your post is that you understand the tensioner procedure but make sure all the pulleys are free to turn when you tension it.
Lastly don't use the timing tools as locking tools or you will break the camshafts or the crankshaft timing pin.
Good luck
Barry

Thanks Barry.

I tried the Ford ETIS page, but it will only take me to the Spanish version (I guess based on IP), and on the Spanish version there is nothing on the Ford Puma

Edit: There is info, but it tells me that only authorised Ford garages may access it.

 

[JAC]

http://www.gates.com/europe/file_display_common.cfm?thispath=Europe%2Fdocuments_module&file=TB_036_E2_K035433XS%2Epdf

http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=22948&hilit=gates+guide" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


gates guide is a must, make sure you get the tensioning sequence correct

Thanks joedeltahf.

The gates guide is the same one I linked to in my post, just at a different address.

I also read the thread you linked, thats where I bookmarked the pumanoob video.

 

[tuonokid]

Hi JAC
I've just remembered Xtraz on here changed his cambelt and posted the Ford ETIS pages so if you can find his post you will have it with colour photos as well. I could have scanned and sent you a copy but mine is loaned out at the moment. The only amendment I used to Ford ETIS was to loosen the water pump pulley prior to taking off the auxiliary belt as the belt locks the pulley.
Did you have a look on my project thread for the special tools and useage.
Barry

 

[tuonokid]

Hi JAC
Found it, it's on page 2 of the "how to guides" and is titled How to change the cambelt on a 1.7l 125hp engine and the colour photos are there as well.
Barry

 

[JAC]

Thanks Barry, you are a star!!

The guide is just what I have been searching for (without any luck), finally something with fotos in order that I can point to to explain to my "partner in grime"

I started reading your project thread the other day but haven't had enough time to make it past the first few pages (too busy searching for cambelt guides ). I just scanned through all of it, but didn't find the cambelt part, I will try to look at it better tomorrow.

Amazing work by the way, do you not fancy a holiday in Spain??

 

[tuonokid]

Hi JAC
Is that an offer
I was there in 2010 on my bike, we stopped in Salou and had a few days in Andorra but the weather was not so good.
Barry

PS The cambelt change is on page 6 of my thread

 

[tractorboy]

I've done the cambelt on the 1.7 about 6 times now, so I'll point out what I found to be different from other cars:

The tensioner setting is a 2-stage process; you've got this in your original post so that's good. My son's was done wrong and I had to fit new inlet valves :-(

In order to remove the camblet covers you have to slacken the power steering pump bolts in order to move the pump back slightly. The bolts are very difficult to access.

The crankshaft pulley bolt is the tightest I've ever come across. I held the pulley with a Laser 3661 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-3661-Camshaft-Pulley-Holding/dp/B00371Z98C" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false and then used a 4 foot scaffold pole on a breaker bar.


Regarding the tightening of the crankshaft bolt, contrary to the advice above I did tighten it with the crankshaft held by the locking pin; the crankshaft web is applying a longitudinal force to the pin so it can take it.

HTH,

Bob

 

[JAC]

Thanks Barry & Bob!

A little update...

After trying every local (and not so local) garage I could think of, I gave a local english mechanic a try. He had actually done one a long time ago, and remembered it was a PITA, but was willing to do it if I supplied the kit and the specialist tools. He did, however, give me the number of another British mechanic who is not that far away, who he said may have the tools.

I called the other guy, and amazingly, not only did he know exactly what I was talking about, but he also has all the necessary tools and setting kit etc. for the 1.7

He even reccomended that I purchase the parts and that he would just charge for labour.

I will go and see him next week, but fingers crossed, he actually sounds like he knows how to do it and has done it before!

I don't mind paying to have it done, I just begrudge paying 450€ for someone to follow the instructions and experiment. Also, if I add up the price of all the tools I will need to buy fro this specific job, I don't think he will actually be that much more expensive.

Thank you all again, and I will keep you updated as to whether we end up doing this ourselves, or I get lucky and save buying all the tools!

 

[tuonokid]

Hi JAC
Well done but just as a last reminder for the mechanic I would print off a copy of the gates technical bulletin regarding cam belt tensioner setting just to make sure and give it to him. As for the special tools, it took me 2 weeks of trawling the internet before I found the set at £95 made by Taskmaster. The setting plate and pin were £12 by Laser tools.
Barry

 

[JAC]

Hi Barry,

I am armed with the bulletin in both English and Spanish, plus the step by step guide you pointed me to

I got a price back last night on the setting tools which was 147€.

BTW, we are doing an oil and filter change this weekend, this is not wasted time/money if I get the cambelt changed next week is it? I can't think why it would influence anything, but thought I would check.

 

[tuonokid]

Hi JAC
He has to take off the rocker cover to do the belt change but unless he's going to drop kgs of dirt down there you should be ok :lol:
Barry

 

[JAC]

If he does drop kgs of dirt down there, I think the oil will be the least of my worries!

 

[tractorboy]

That reminds me...

Having taken the rocker cover off a few times and NOT replaced the gasket, I would advise fitting a new Ford gasket straight away!

Bob

 

[joedeltahf]

http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=27221" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

heres some info on flywheel locking tool

i used this and the pin and standing on a breaker for the crank pulley bolt

 

[joedeltahf]

another good tip- for the drive belt (not cambelt) put 2 x cable ties together looped round engine mount and you can hook spanner in to hold the tensioner fully off and wind the belt on the crank pulley, couldnt have done it on my own with only 2 hands otherwise.