Puma Swede

[xztraz]

Might as well start a project thread since i need to keep track of all the stuff I've done

Car:
First Registration Date: 15.07.1998
Registration Country: SE
Build Date: 19.01.1998
Vehicle Line: Puma 1997-2001
Body Style: 3 Door Coupe
Engine: Zetec 1.7 EFI
Transmission: 5 Speed Manual Transaxle - B5/IB5
Drive: LHD FWD
Axle Ratio: 3.82
Emission: EEC 96 Car (EEC 1)
Air Conditioning: Manual Air Conditioning
Territory: (+)"S"
Paint: Radiant Red
Interior Colour: Alchemy Interior
Interior Fabric: Silverstone/Echo

To do:
Engine and suspension
* New droplinks
* Check what's wrong with the fuel delivery. It goes a bit lean.
* Probably time to change font bushings soon again. polyflex maybe?
* Re adjust exhaust system so it doesn't bump into chassis and fix leak in front part.

Interior/exterior
* Change Clock to Clock+Outside temp and install temperature sensor, stuff ordered
* Repaint rear arches with better colour match. and clear coat.
* Put clear coat on headlights to protect from UV

* Install remote boot switch and also connect it to the alarm aux out so it can be opened with the alarm remote.
* solar film.

Brakes
* Change brake lines to copper
* Change brake hoses to braided ones.
* Fix internally leaking master brake cylinder


Previous owner did:
* Weitec Ultra GT sport suspension. I think they lower the car ~40mm.
* Bigger front discs and fiesta calipers. 258mm. (Original 239,5mm)
i also got a couple of new yellow stuff brake pads with the car. i don't know if these are so good for the street.

Done by me:
* Washed the interior with a textile cleaning machine (yuuck!)
* The paintwork had a good rubbing since it was full of grinding particles and scratches.
* Winter heating cable and outlet installed
* Carguard alarm cables soldered instead of the Quick Splice snap-on ****.
* New rear suspension bushes
* New backbox
* New Flex exhaust tube
* New MAF
* New fuel filter
* New Timing belt and tensioner, engine re-timed. (@~12kmil)
* Fixed oil leak on timing belt side (blanking plug had come undone)
* Sealed rocket cover gasket
* New crankshaft seal
* New water pump and seal
* New aux guide pulley
* Fixed interior lightning (prev. owner ripped out the beeper and that makes the left hand door light switch sad)
* Clean and repair broken clip on headlights
* Fixed oil leaks from gear box (wrongly mounted vent and new diff shaft seals)
* New oil in gear box
* New outer cv-joints and fresher inner joints. painted axles
* New rear wheel bearings.
* New oil, oil filter, air filter and air vent filter.
* whole rear right arch replaced and left arch partly.
* Rust proof the underside, Rear parts done
* New fuel pump
* Repainted fuel tank
* New Interior clips for rear panels, rear seat and doors.
* ICE installation, (power, Head unit, Rear speaker boxes, jbl:s and jl:s, sound proofing rear, amp, front doors sound proofed and jl speakers, reverse camera)
* Fixed new boot gas struts so it stops eating my head.
* Sanded and polished head light plastic covers


Puma Swede is a Swedish porn star that took her name from her car (yep. A puma)
My Swedish reg plate says BED... :wink:

 

[quest63]

Welcome aboard :thumbs:

 

[xztraz]

Thanks! Soon i'll have most of the car sorted out. And i must say. A hell of a lot more fun car compared to my previous mi16 that kind of exploded

 

[xztraz]

Cleaned out the headlights, lenses and some very careful cleaning of reflectors. Much better light now. Needs a final height adjustment.

 

[xztraz]

MOT passed with no remarks and perfect exhaust values Much better than before cam belt change. so engine properly timed now.

 

[yippeekiay]

Cleaned out the headlights, lenses and some very careful cleaning of reflectors. Much better light now. Needs a final height adjustment.

Made a world of difference to my headlights and was a lot easier to do than first thought once I got a clear idea what I was doing :lol:

Congrats on MOT pass :thumbs:

 

[xztraz]

Main lights are even kind of usable after cleaning

 

[xztraz]

Gave the beast a good clean. but since the weather is what it is here in sweden it'll soon be dirty as its name again

 

[xztraz]

Looking at driver shaft replacement.
Have been having some shaking in steering wheel and just re-filled a inner cv-joint with some fresh grease. previous grease had gone away :/
All cv-joints have some radial play in them.. might have to put a switch to the torque limiter. i think the previous owner said it had been deactivated so just need to find the cable for that.

 

[xztraz]

Fixed the rear shelf lift mount tihingies and put some shrink tubing on the hinges to stop it falling down.
took 2 stainless steel screws and some nuts. made threads in the bodywork.

Also welded an ugly crack in the plastics next to one of them. turned out quite ok. used some welding wire and made it zigzag over the crack on the backside. heated it and melted it into the plastics to keep it all together.

And better drive shafts on its way from Ian

 

[xztraz]

Drive shafts now changed to fresher parts. Inner parts from Ian and bougth 2 spanking new outer cv-joints. Painted it all sexy red

Turned around the gear box venting plastich thingie that wheere leaking oil. and replaced shaft seals in the diff. so the box should keep the new oil now.

No more vibrations and clunking now.

New fuel pump on the shelf too. should be changed soon.

 

[Cartman]

Good job on painting the driveshafts.. cool

 

[xztraz]

Put in new rear wheel bearings and did a light service (oil and all filters)
So no more grinding noise now

Need a new lower ball joint thing in the front.

 

[xztraz]

Ripped out the rear interior, bumper and rear arch liners. Rust fixing! Yeey..

After a couple of litres of degreaser and hard work with a brush i got it quite clean.

Are there wax coating in the arches from the factory or have someone tried to dampen the damage?

The worst spot after some hammering

Banged together a piece of arch over some plywood that i cut as the arch and sanded down to a 45 degree angle. See if i remember to take a picture of the "jigg"

Cut away some bad arch and replaced wit new steel.

Continuing tomorrow.. Today the weather sucked. Rain and wind. not so fun to weld in.

More pics..

inner and outer arch should not be welded together if reading the puma shmeide(spelling) guide. only joined by sticky stuff and folding in the lip. Might do that since it's a hard spot to weld. How have you guys done it?

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Michael?
When I did a small repair to my drivers side arch the inner wasn't welded to the outer so I did the same but after I'd finished I sealed it all the way around with a stikaflex type sealer. As standard the car does have a waxoil type anti rust treatment around the arches and in the sills and inner sills. Did you find the black plastic bags underneath the seat belt reels?
Barry

 

[xztraz]

Alright I'll just make it easier on me then and use flex seal and fold in the lip.

No plastic bags what I've seen but the interior in this car have been ripped out/in before by previous owner so might be removed.

 

[Glenn_]

Your arches are one of the worst ive seen.

 

[xztraz]

Looks quite bad yes. After hammering on it atleast. The paint was holding it together but new fresh metal there now

 

[xztraz]

My arch making "jigg" some plywood to bang the metal around

left side welded

right side welded The welds are getting better as i go. Using a tig welder is qute nice since it's not flying metal sparks all around.

Bent up the inner lip on the better side and used a rotary metal brush and a lot of rust eater to get rid of some surface rust. The flex material joining the panels where totaly dry and brittle. no wonder why water gets down in there.

More pictures..

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Michael
I like your arch former, good idea.
How're you getting on with using the TIG on the bodywork? Are you taking breaks between welding or just carrying on as I thought you might be putting too much heat in if you tried to do it all in one go?
Barry