Puma Swede

[Wild E. Coyote]

the biggest difference is when you shut the door. It is almost like a Volvo: thud! instead of japanesque thin!

PS: what silicone grease are you using?

 

[xztraz]

I would not put my fingers between the door and the chassis if i say so.. sounds massive.

Silicon was just some automotive silicone grease i found. quite runny and slippery.

Here is how i had to modify the hole to fit the head unit

Head unit installed.

Put some plastic pieces beside the hu to hide ugly metal and such.

The amp mounting in the trunk.

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

Very nice! What is the startup time of that HU? Heard that all Android ones have startup time in region of 30 seconds? Like booting a computer?

 

[xztraz]

It depends. If just shuting down the car for a short time it only takes seconds but if leaving it a while maybe 15-20 sec. rear camera functions and such are instant thou since its handled by hardware video switching.

 

[xztraz]

Finally got my OBDlink MX and to my surprise it actually works with the hu. The elm 327 adapter i have don't pair up(works with my phone thou)

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

I am also not very happy with ELM327. MX is supposedly much better all around? Can you do all the diagnostic tests in forscan without problems at all?
How much is the OBDlink MX?

Thanks in advance,

 

[xztraz]

i need some time to evaluate the mx before i could recommend it. i actually lost connection to it today but might have kicked it out of it's socket. Now i'm just using torque but should try forscan and see if that works good with this adapter.

 

[xztraz]

The mx cost me with shipping and all around 120$.. quite expensive.

i have some problem with the mx adapter un-pairing on the bluetooth sometimes. Well later problem. I've started repairs on exhaust front. going to change front flex pipe and a piece of pipe. removing flange coupling since it's rusted into oblivion.

 

[xztraz]

Fixed up the front of the exhaust today.

New flex pipe and 0,5 m pipe afterwards.



the removed pieces..

New

forgot to take a picture with car jacked up.

Also tried a new blend of paint on the fuel filler lid. but still to bright. hm. well back to the paint guy and test some other mixture.

 

[xztraz]

Summer time are approaching

My headlight plastic lenses where in a quite sorry state.

So masked the car down and got started with some sanding. 600grain paper and lots of water.

Sanded until I didn't see any yellow colour or deep scratches.

Then 800grain paper

1200 grain paper

After sanding, machine polishing. used almost a whole tube of Autosol chrome polish with a oscillating sander with a foam pad. and some water.

And finally some fine car polish and a new pad for the machine

Like new ish

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

You need to protect them from UV lights as you have sanded down the protective film or they will turn yellow in 6 months!

 

[xztraz]

i think the film was already removed on most of the headlights. but i'll see what i can find to protect them.

ordinary clear coat should have uv-protection. i have some 2k clear coat. that will do i think

 

[xztraz]

As you said the lights did get a small tint of yellow over time without protection. they still look alot better than before. but now i'm polishing them up again and this time they will have a coat of 2K.

also added som leds(warm white) in the upper part of lights. think i need a switch for them..

 

[xztraz]

It was a while since i wrote something here so..

Had an accident with a dear a year ago so had to pull out the front beam to original position. Replace bumper. A tube for powersteering. A New headlight. It's sorted.also did a wheel angle adjustment to check frame. Still square.

Also a some maintanance stuff. New bushes in front. New rear brake cylinders and drums and bearings.
New cambelt, tensioner, water pump, termostat, new brakelines in copper. New braided brake hoses. Flushed cooling sys and oil sys. New air,Oil and pollen-filter. New generator belt. New belt runner. Fresher steeringwheel. And probably more stuff i've forgotten

Also continued the never ending rust fight. Front wheel area wirebrushed and painted to stop some surface rust. Front wing needed some love too and got a new piece of metal in the lower part.

And today i discovered that a sill needs some new metal too. Better to fix before it's just holes with rust inbetween.. it's not that bad but needs a bit of welding. I'll just remove the worst and put some new metal over. Probbably need to replace the sills quite soon before stuff gets out of hand. But until next summer a patchwork will do. And some oil baded rust protection in the sills should slow down the process a bit.

Rear arches still holding up. But he 1k paint seem to have someething wrong with it. It have like small cracks all over. No rust or anything but looks a bit weird. Need to sand down and repaint some day. Probably next summer.

Got a house in the middle of nowhere and have been renovating the **** out of it so the car have not had that much love lately. Soon most of renovating is done so i can do a real oveehaul of the car again.

 

[xztraz]

Ah well. i grinded away all rusty metal in the affected sil and i'm now replacing it. trying fluss welding wire. (gassless) works quite well if you don't need super tidy welds.

 

[xztraz]

Time for some major rust repairs and more

It all started with a broken rear spring and now the entire back axle is ripped apart and being renovated,

lots of rust discovered but still repairable. so down with the fuel tank, exhaust system, heat shields and whatnot.
all metal bits replaced so far is done with alu-zink covered steel.

Done so far:

• Rear beams rust repaired,
• fixed a rust hole in the floor of the boot.
• new metal where the brake line mounts where in the wheel arches
• some surface rust in the rear
• new shocks and springs, top mount, bump stops, struts and so on. going to try ta-technics shocks.

Doing:

• new mounts for brake lines-tubes in wheel arches, i'll make some in stainless steel
• Rear axle: de-rust and repaint
• Rear axle: New axle spacers and bolts, i'm going for 15mm billets. original was ~10mm, the original spacers where just dust and the bolts where really bad. half of them snapped, welding on a nut on the piece left and using some penetrating oil on the hot bits seemed to do the trick.
• Rear axle: new rubber bushings,
• new drum brake pads and cylinders.

To do:

• new m10x1 brake line nuts and mounting clips
• a lot of plastic clips for brake and fuel lines and tidy up the tubes. original clips seem hard to get.
• New fuel tank on its way
• New rubber fuel hoses to replace the hard plastic ones.
• new handbrake wires
• new fuel filter
• refurbish some bolts that can be reused
• Sills!, both sides needs a lot of love
• inner sills will of course be rusted to bits.
• a lot of the floor needs new bits of metal
• front wings. lots of metall missing due to rust.
• some small rust blemishes on rear wings
• repaint a lot of stuff.
• and probably a lot more

 

[red]

That list of jobs should keep it going a while longer!

 

[xztraz]

That list of jobs should keep it going a while longer!

I really hope so it's way too fun to drive to scrap and they are quite rare here in Sweden now. only 150 registered cars left.
i hope i've found most major stuff now.

concentrating on the rear end now so i can start with the sills and floor soon. starting to get cold here now to and i only got a garage tent.. brrrr!!! but i keep telling myself i'ts worth it. especially when driving an old clio now until it's fixed.

 

[xztraz]

waiting for some body spray to dry on the car. meanwhile..


a new pretty fuel tank arrived today. moved over the fuel pump that still works. the tank is for a fiesta (alot cheaper) but are missing some metal in one corner to mount the fuel filter. i'll figure something out. ill change all the hard plastic lines for new rubber fuel lines and skip as many quick connectors as possible


rear axle, de rusted, rust converter zink coating. then hammerite.


rear brake dum shields got de-rusted, and some rust converter, drums got some love too.


the rear axle mounting brackets are not so pretty.. see thru metal. so trying to source some better ones from the scrapyard. they are not manufactured any more :/

 

[John Woodward]

waiting for some body spray to dry on the car. meanwhile..

View attachment 13132
a new pretty fuel tank arrived today. moved over the fuel pump that still works. the tank is for a fiesta (alot cheaper) but are missing some metal in one corner to mount the fuel filter. i'll figure something out. ill change all the hard plastic lines for new rubber fuel lines and skip as many quick connectors as possible

View attachment 13136View attachment 13133
rear axle, de rusted, rust converter zink coating. then hammerite.

View attachment 13134View attachment 13137
rear brake dum shields got de-rusted, and some rust converter, drums got some love too.

View attachment 13135
the rear axle mounting brackets are not so pretty.. see thru metal. so trying to source some better ones from the scrapyard. they are not manufactured any more :/

If using fuel pipe instead of the plastic pipes and the so called "Easy disconnect" connectors, make sure you use decent quality E10 compatible pipe and I would recommend using proper fuel pipe clips, not Jubilee clips.
A friend with a Puma which had rubber fuel pipe fitted, had a fuel leak due to the hose leaking, possibly not E10 ethanol proof.