Rob's Steel Blue Puma - First Car Project - Total Novice

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rob987_0

Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2012
Messages
86
Location
County Durham
I got my 1.7 Puma back in September and posted in the newbie area to say hello. I always planned to make a project out of it as it but never really made a start with the awful weather. I've got no mechanical experience so everything is a learning curve. I don't have loads of time to work on it with having a full time job and having the little'n but I'll try and keep this updated as much as I can. Luckily I can cycle to work and we have another car which my girlfriend uses so I don't need the Puma back on the road.

I bought the Puma with 42,000 miles on the clock. It had one lady owner, just had it's MOT and cost me £800. I viewed the car in the dark which wasn't the best of ideas but after a good test drive I decided to take a punt. I was chuffed at what I had got for £800, although it did need a major clean!

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Problems with the car...
No service history
Cambelt hadn't been changed
Wiper blades were awful
Keyfob had been chewed to bits by their dog so the remote didn't work
Stereo didn't work
Usual rust spots (doors, front wings, rear arches, door sills)

The first thing I did was get it serviced. I also got the cam belt changed for £216 and bought some Bosch wiper blades from ebay. I then sent the key fob away to a guy on ebay and he fixed it. I programmed it using this guide http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?t=39

After a good clean, clay bar, polish and wax...
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I stripped the interior and gave it a good clean. The previous owner was a school teacher so I found around 50 pens and pencils. They also had a dog so the amount of dog hair that had accumulated over the years was horrendous. There were a few rust spots so I treated with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. Some of the bolts that hold the seats snapped when removing them so I had to drill them out and use similar sized bolts with nuts screwed on under the chassis.

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Rust grinded away and Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 applied
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I had planned on getting the rear arches repaired with 206 wings. Back in Janurary a taxi crashed into one of the arches when I was driving so he agreed to pay for it to be repaired. I took the opportunity and bought two 206 wings and my local coachworks did both arches for £140 each. They also repaired a big dent I created when the jack slipped. Overall they did a pretty good job!

The dent
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I'll get a picture of the repair as soon as possible.


Over the last two weeks I stripped the interior, removed the brake drums from the rear beam, then removed the beam (which was a nightmare), and now I'm in the process of stripping it and re-painting it. All of this has been a lot of work, not helped by heavily rusted bolts and me not really knowing what I'm doing :lol: I've never had so much bother removing the bolts which go through the rear beam bushes.

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Unfortunately when I tried to remove the abs sensor wiring, the plastic clips which hold it to the beam all snapped, so I'll just have to use tie wraps when I come to put it back together.
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I had tried a wire cup brush on a drill but it just couldn't get through all the rust. So I borrowed a grinder and it cuts through the rust like butter. So much easier. I'll be using the same method to de-rust the chassis.
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Cleaned, degreased and ready for paint...
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I bought some FK lowering springs direct from FK in Germany.
http://www.carparts-tuning.co.uk/Su...21.html?listtype=search&searchparam=ford puma

They cost around £48 delivered. I know they are cheap and cheerful but I thought they were worth ago for the price. I fitted the front ones and the rear ones will be installed when I've finished sorting the underbody rust.

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Before the end of the week I hope to have the rear beam painted. I was thinking of using Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80, and then a coat of Epoxy Mastic 121, although I'm not sure whether to leave the hydrate 80 and just use the 121? Does anyone have any suggestions?

Rust Busters say to just apply the Epoxy mastic straight to bare metal. Whichever method I use, I will do the same for the rest of the chassis restoration.
 
Great start to your project! :thumbs:

I must say she's looking mighty pretty :wub: looks just like mine did when I first got her lol

Its great the fact you're going to these lengths to restore and protect the some of the parts and the chassis. You could probably do with some new shocks too by the looks of them :lol:

Good work though mate :eek:k:
 
Have you replaced the rear bushes?
If not, it would be a good idea, whilst the rear beam is off. A local garage pressed my new ones in for £10 (cash!).
 
Sparx said:
Great start to your project! :thumbs:

I must say she's looking mighty pretty :wub: looks just like mine did when I first got her lol

Its great the fact you're going to these lengths to restore and protect the some of the parts and the chassis. You could probably do with some new shocks too by the looks of them :lol:

Good work though mate :eek:k:

Thanks Sparx! I know, the shocks look ruined, but I didn't want to spend too much on the suspension just yet. I want to get the chassis and body back in good condition first to make sure it's all sounds. I just got the springs because I didn't like how high the car was sitting. I'll look to get some coilovers in future :grin:
 
YOG said:
Have you replaced the rear bushes?
If not, it would be a good idea, whilst the rear beam is off. A local garage pressed my new ones in for £10 (cash!).

I planned on replacing the rear bushes before I put the beam back on. I don't ever want to take it off again, so I was considering poly bushes. Also, I'd be able to fit them myself. Considering I could get standard bushes fitted for £10 I may go that route. Will have to have a think about it. Thanks for the tip.
 
I got a few hours to work on the Puma yesterday, so with the help of a friend we lifted the car higher, remove the back bumper, lowered the back end of the exhaust and removed the fuel tank.

Plenty of rust to tackle :-(

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What I've spent so far:
Major Service - £109
Bosch Wiper blades - £30
New power steering hose and installation - £272
Cambelt - £216
Rear arch repair with pug 206 wing - £170
Lowering Springs - £48
Epoxy Mastic 121 - £38
Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 x 2 - £26
Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 - £23
Key Fob Repair - £22
Stereo Fitting Kit - £15
Wire cup grinding brushes x 2 - £10
Total = £979
 
I've been working as much as I can on the car over the past few weeks. I've had to squeeze in an hour or two wherever I can. After what seems like hours. And hours. And hours of grinding I finally got the Epoxy Mastic 121 painted on. It is supposed to be grey but it doesn't look grey to me.

So I grinded as much as I could back to bare pitted steel...
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Then I cleaned and de-greased with Bilt Hamber Surfex HD De-greaser...
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I then applied Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 to the areas where the steel had rusted a lot and was still visible on the pitted steel. After two coats and 24 hours later I applied Epoxy Mastic 121.
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I called up Rust Busters where I got the Epoxy Mastic 121 to ask for advice on using the epoxy mastic. The guy said it can be left without applying anything on top as it's so strong but I don't really like the colour and there are areas where I couldn't reach with the brush. So I bought four cans of AutoTek Stone Guard Grey from ebay...
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I tested it out last night...
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I like the colour (although it does look lighter on the above photo) so I'll be spraying it over the Epoxy Mastic tonight. It dries with a flexible rubber texture so it'll give that extra bit of protection. I couldn't find any reviews on it so I hope it performs well!

I also applied Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 and Epoxy Mastic 121 to the rear beam and sprayed it satin black. It's turned out great and looks brand new.

Old...
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New...
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I removed the bushes using a hole saw, hack saw hammer and screw driver. My local garage are going to press in the new bushes this week.
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Good work. I hope you are getting better now; I remember how it looked like with mine at one point; you put so much hours and nothing to show for. But then, suddenly it started to come together....

Keep on!
 
Thanks a lot guys. It really has been so much work to get to this point, quite disheartening at times when all I seemed to be doing was grinding. Anyway, it's all good now that it's pretty close to putting back together. I sprayed two coats of the grey stone guard over the epoxy mastic and it looks good. My only concern is that I can chip through it with my finger nail when it's dried. I know it's supposed to be rubberised and stay flexible but I'm not sure whether to spray something that will dry a lot harder over the top, like the Simoniz Tough satin black spray paint. Decisions decisions :?

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Got a few more hours work done at the weekend.

I decided to finish the underbody off with Simoniz Tough Satin Black spray paint...
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Sprayed Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 in the cavities...
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New fuel line clips and exhaust heat shield nuts from ford...
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Fuel tank sprayed and ready to fit...
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Fuel tank, axel and exhaust back on...
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I got some 20.5mm axel spacers but had trouble installing the passenger side one as the ABS sensor got in the way. I ended up shaving the rubber around the sensor to get the spacer to fit.
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Cleaned up the drums and rear struts with the grinder, treated with Hydrate 80 and sprayed satin black...
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All that's left to do now is bleed the rear brake drum as I cut through the brake line with the grinder, then put the wheels and rear bumper back on.
 
I got the rear brake bled, although just as I was tightening up I snapped the bleed screw so it's flush with the drum. Not sure if I should just leave as it's working or try and take it out. After I sorted the bleeding I put the wheels back on and removed the axel stands...

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Bumper back on...
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I've installed new lowering springs, however, as you can see the car doesn't look lower at all. The back was supposed to be a 40mm drop and hasn't changed, and the front was supposed to be a 35mm drop, and is actually about 10mm lower. I guess that's what happens when you buy cheap stuff :cry:

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Rear arch from inside...
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Sprayed all the way around with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50. Did the same on both sides.
I also sprayed plenty of S50 on the inside of the arch lip.
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While the car was on axel stands I had left the handbrake on by mistake. As a result, the rear drum had seized. I gave it a good tap with a hammer which helped free it. The car is now back on the road! woohoo

Still got plenty to do but at least I can drive it.
 
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