rust convertor

[tractorboy]

The liners come out fairly easily after removing a number of screws/fasteners which are fairly obvious once you've got the wheel off.

I usually use Kurust on the rust but I'm always being told that Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 is the best.

Bob

 

[Frank]

[post]345712[/post] hi, i am going to be doing the wheel arches on my puma, i know its best to cut out the bad metal but im on a budget so im going to be filling them for now, what is a good rust converter and how do the inner arches come out, thanks

Why the rear arches on Pumas rust is covered in the later part, here - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=338501#p338501

What to do about it is covered here - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=339476#p339476 and an extra tip here - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=342351#p342351

Doing the inside of the arches properly will stop it rusting there again. For the outside, as an absolute minimum, get rid of any rust on the outside including any under any 'bubbled' paint (a Stanley knife blade is good for that) and then treat with 2 coats of Vactan. Finally, pretty it all up with filler.

If rust is dealt with right, then it will not keep coming back. Like bacteria, rusting starts at a microscopic level and that's why a quick slap job just doesn't work.

 

[Frp483]

Totally agree with frank but I would also remove the trim in the boot and again the back seats and spray the inside of the 3/4 panel arch with loads of wax oil / old engine oil mix, the engine oil will help it run to the parts the spay can't get, it won't compleatly stop rust forming but it will slow and protect the rest of the arch, until you can afford to replace it with steel. It's messy but it works.

 

[Frank]

[post]345726[/post] Totally agree with frank but I would also remove the trim in the boot and again the back seats and spray the inside of the 3/4 panel arch with loads of wax oil / old engine oil mix, the engine oil will help it run to the parts the spay can't get...

Yep, as I write here, it is pretty essential to strip the rear cards, boot lining out to do a proper job on this stuff.

You make a good point about the thickness of the liquids used and that's why I use Vactan as the rust converter/preventer. Being water-based and relatively thin, it will follow the same path as the water condensation that did the damage in the first place. I used a throwaway 5ml pipette to squirt the stuff right into the areas and let it run where it wanted to. You can't do that with those thicker rust converters and places get missed. All that is too late for you (not the end of the world) as the water-based stuff has to go on before the wax/oil based stuff.

As for using engine oil? Great stuff, I've got garden tools, including thin bladed ones and old Victorian ones, that are treated with that every year and they are rust free. If the metal is already rusted then it also soaks right into it. One point, DO NOT use old engine oil for anything, it contains quite a few nasty chemicals and you should just keep well away from it. Plus you can pick up new clean 20/50 oil for a song these days.

...sometime I'll copy 'n paste all the previous info into a 'How To' to have it all in one place. Plus, I've got some ideas for people on a budget for the cosmetic side afterwards.

 

[Frp483]

Another for the underside is Shultz or stone chipper with engine oil added, it doesn't dry totally so gives a more flexible finish that copes better with temperature and impacts from debris

 

[marco.da.man]

jenolite original for the rust