wandering 1.4

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Stevecvo

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2009
Messages
124
I felt that my Puma had started to wander a bit when coming out of bends. Not anything worrying but a noticeable slight sideways movement. When I tested the car yesterday in a straight line I found that a firm application of power caused the car to move slightly to one side and return when the power was taken off.I will get under the car tomorrow to check for any obvious play in suspension or steering parts and to see if there is any sign that the tracking is out but has anyone an idea from personal experience what might be the cause?
 
This is called torque steer when quick acceleration will deviate the running line intended.
If however you are driving in a straight line and the car deviates on its own without any undu rapid acceleration then this may be the cars wheel alignment and you should get that sorted at a laser wheel alignment garage.
In the roundabouts, i would wonder at what speed you attack it at. I am generally on the gas and i make mine slide out as i like it, but a combination or rubbish tyres and too fast will make the puma slide out.
 
One simple and quick check would be your tyre pressures. Plays a big part in the way your car handles.
 
wishbone bushes might well be worn,if it pulls when you accelerate from a steady speed more than likely worn wishbone bushes
 
Torque steering in a car with no torque can be down to the wheel bearing wearing. Could be something to check aswell, but getting it tracked is a good idea. Had mine done the other week, visibly different camber and toe. May explain the tires being bald on the inside edge :oops:
 
Thanks for all your suggestions. When I checked the car today I found a worn bush in the right hand lower suspension arm.

Is this a push fit or do you need a press to fit a new one?
 
cheaper to replace wishbone,if its a genuine ford wishbone,with ford logo stamped on it you can polybush it and use the frp rear bush to upgrade that part aswell.
Atleast 1 of us was right tho :-D :-D :-D :-D
 
Yes Martin. A well deserved gold star for you.

I have to confess though that I don't understand why you say it is cheaper to replace the wishbone. New bushes cannot be very pricey. I will check whether it is an original wishbone but I think it is a replacement. Normally polybushes are a push fit. Is this the case here? I assume though from other stuff I have read that the rear FRP bushes would need to be pressed in.
 
poly wont fit in aftermarket wishbones,so will be easier to replace than mess about with changing bushes,and it doesnt take that long to either
 
Fitted a new lower suspension arm today. No big deal except that the bolts going through the bushes were incredibly tight and it was difficult to get much leverage lying on the ground. Resolved the problem eventually with a long bit of scafolding bar over the ratchet handle. I bought a good quality aftermarket arm (TWR) which cost the equivalent of about £50. I think I will do the other side as well for complete peace of mind.
 
Did the other side today. A bit quicker than the first one because I knew what to expect.I did not disconnect the drop link from the suspension leg and managed to jack up the leg at the brake disc to get the necessary clearance. A piece of advice is to be aware that the bolts going through the bushes corrode and bind to the inner metal sleeve. Because it is difficult to get a good pull on the ratchet when lying on the ground a length of tube gives the added leverage necessary to loosen the bolts. I heated the first side and it was a bit easier but this is not really necessary if you have a long enough piece of tube.
 
What exactly is a breaker bar? Over the years I have simply put tube over the ratchet handle to get extra leverage when needed Although sometimes the torque wrench does the job.
 
its 1 of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-AK730-Breaker-Bar-600mm-1-2-Sq-Drive-/140847447481?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item20cb297db9" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
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