Broken my brake lines, what can I do?

[huw_jenks]

I removed my brake calipers yesterday to refurb them, and although the refurb went mostly to plan, both brake lines sheared off when trying to remove them from the calipers.

I really wanted the get the Puma through MOT this week, so it's a massive set back and a huge annoyance to me. So what can I do?

I'm assuming I'll need two new brake lines, but I'm concerned that the opposite ends of the line could also shear off when replacing. The end of the brake line on one end is still jammed in the caliper and won't budge.

I'd really appreciate some advice right now, or even just something to cheer me up tbh!

 

[YOG]

First thing to do is undo the brake/clutch fluid cap, put a layer of thin polythene (cling film, if pushed) and screw the cap back on. This will reduce/prevent further loss of fluid.
Next, as soon as possible, give all the nuts/threads (including the piece still in the caliper) that need undoing, a good soaking with penetrating fluid.
Ideally, you should remove the caliper with the broken connector, to make it easier to drill out/use a screw/bolt extractor. If you do this, give the caliper bolts a good soaking in penetrating fluid as well. You'll need a 6 sided socket for these bolts, to prevent rounding off the corners.
You'll need 2 new brake hoses and some fresh brake fluid. Under no circumstances allow the fluid reservoir level to get low, or you'll be in problems with the ABS.
Good luck!

 

[zinc2000]

One good thing is that the other end of that pipe is a double joint which means that at least you can get a grip with a good spanner and hold the joint and its bracket in place which should prevent shearing (sorry I can only say "should" ).

And as above keep a sharp eye on the fluid level...I nearly came unstuck with that doing my front brake pipes last year.
Good luck

 

[huw_jenks]

Thanks for the advice folks!

Replacing the hoses turned out to be a doddle actually, to my great surprise. What was not a doddle, was trying to remove one of the old hose connectors from the calipers. The passenger side one came out fairly easily, but the drivers side one was stuck fast. I tried everything, spanners, mole grips, bolt extractor (which broke, thanks Halfrauds), and most of a can of WD40. Eventually there was nothing left of the connector except for what is still stuck in there, clogging up the threads and going nowhere.

I'm really gutted. If the connector had come away cleanly, in all liklihood the puma would now be MOT'd and back on the road. Now I'll have to wait over a month before I get another chance to work on it, and I'll need to source a replacement caliper.

The other thing I should mention is... I let all the brake fluid drain out. I did that a day before I posted in here and saw the warnings, but with the plan that I would be refurbing both calipers and replacing both drum cylinders, so why not change the brake fluid too? Exactly how F___ed am I?

 

[zinc2000]

Oooh dear.......may not the end of the world though as according to my pet mechanic you may not need the dealer tools as some people will tell you, problem is that the ABS unit in effect "stores" some fluid as it cant get out during normal bleeding.
However and there is some debate on this, the theory is that you bleed the brakes as normal until the pedal is good and firm, then you drive the car (carefully) and brake hard several times to activate the ABS, this "should" allow the stored fluid into the main system and will hopefully also purge any air at the same time, then its back home and bleed the system completely again thus hopefully and again , in theory filling the system with nice clean fluid.
Although my mechanic tells me he has done this on several occasions without any hassle there have also been a couple of occasions when it has not worked.!! problem is you have no idea whether it has worked or not until the ABS is activated and that may not be the time to find it has not worked.
Do some research before you decide which is the best route and speak to a couple of mechanics

 

[huw_jenks]

[post]362308[/post] Oooh dear.......may not the end of the world though as according to my pet mechanic you may not need the dealer tools as some people will tell you, problem is that the ABS unit in effect "stores" some fluid as it cant get out during normal bleeding.
However and there is some debate on this, the theory is that you bleed the brakes as normal until the pedal is good and firm, then you drive the car (carefully) and brake hard several times to activate the ABS, this "should" allow the stored fluid into the main system and will hopefully also purge any air at the same time, then its back home and bleed the system completely again thus hopefully and again , in theory filling the system with nice clean fluid.
Although my mechanic tells me he has done this on several occasions without any hassle there have also been a couple of occasions when it has not worked.!! problem is you have no idea whether it has worked or not until the ABS is activated and that may not be the time to find it has not worked.
Do some research before you decide which is the best route and speak to a couple of mechanics

Cheers, I reckon that's worth a go. What's the other option though, you mention something about a dealer tool?

 

[zinc2000]

Dealers apparently have some tool, presumably electronic which will allow the ABS internal valves to open without the unit being operational, I think the idea is it then allows the whole system to be bled normally without the risk of air being trapped in the ABS unit