CherryV's Thunder

[CherryVimto]

Good productive day today.
I put DRLs in the headlights but when I needed to take the headlights out, it was a bit hard to do as I had a wire running to each headlight which didn't have any method of being disconnected.
I've had to disconnect the levelling motors as they kept dropping the headlights down. I wound them up manually, but since then I've noticed the headlights just aren't as bright as they used to be.

So, thanks to another member, I've replaced all of the internal wiring and altered the wiring for the DRLs. I've now mounted a socket on the back of each headlight so the DRLs can be unplugged if I want to remove the headlights.
I've also replaced the levelling motors but won't really know what difference it's made until I go out at night.
If there is no improvement, I'm going to get the beam position/level checked. Failing that, new set of HIDs will be ordered.

Still enjoying driving around on the new tyres! :twisted:

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[CherryVimto]

I picked up a second hand set of ST150 calipers, pads and discs which I've spent the last week or so cleaning them up and as the weather was actually quite nice today, I fitted it all.

Passenger side went without a hitch. Drivers side was a different story.
The top carrier bolt didn't want to come out. 13mm spanner slipped round with no effort. Next came a 1/2" socket which rounded too. After that came a 12mm socket which didn't do much either.
I managed to get a 12mm spanner on it but found that if I knocked the bottom of the carrier away from the disc while putting weight on the spanner, it was gradually loosening the bolt. Result!

All fitted and bled and working a treat.


This is what I took off.....

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View media item 4782More ridges than a bag of McCoys crisps

 

[CherryVimto]

I've noticed that the clutch hasn't been feeling 'right' recently so I suspected its on its way out.
It was confirmed yesterday when I booted it down the road and did a quick gear change followed by a generous helping of the right pedal. That resulted in a nice burning smell.
Luckily gear changes and pulling away is still normal but will be getting it changed soon.

I've not been able to get any more parts for the turbo conversion.
I was going to buy a repair kit for the turbo, but decided to buy a brand new core instead. Will come balanced and with 2yrs guarantee.

I've also been looking at getting the turbo mounted on to the manifold.
I cut the turbo flange from the Saab manifold ready to get it welded on to the tubular manifold. But after researching how 'not so easy' it is to weld cast iron, I've now gone off the idea.
Instead, I'm going to buy a lump steel to bolt on the original manifold, then bolt the turbo to that. I can get that done for a tenner and don't need to pay anyone to do any welding.

 

[CherryVimto]

New clutch and slave cylinder have arrived. Waiting for someone to let me know about fitting it.

Also got the steel slab I'm going to use to make up a mounting flange for the turbo. I'm not sure if I'm going to cut it down to the basic shape of the standard manifold, or just leave it square.

 

[CherryVimto]

I've been taking advantage of the nice weather today. Construction of the turbo flange began.....

Started off with marking the bolt holes. They will be drilled and tapped so the flange can be bolted to the manifold.
Marked the maximum size of the original manifold.

Cut the steel down to size.

I thought about leaving like that, but got a bit OCD over it and decided it wouldn't look right. So, out came the grinder again.

Looking at the standard manifold, there is a small crevasse where exhaust gases could collect rather than going out through the exhaust. I decided to remove it so when I fit the turbo flange, the gases will flow better past that area.

Next was to cut a hole for the exhaust gases to flow through to the turbo.

I cut the flange from the original Saab manifold to use as a pattern.

Next job is to drill all the holes and tap them out. Typically, all the drill bits I need aren't sharp enough to cut cleanly.

 

[Ziggy]

Just a thought but do you need to angle the turbo away from the block ?

 

[CherryVimto]

It is something that has been said, but I've got some pictures of a turbo mounted on the manifold, and it's mounted straight.
If I do need extra clearance, I'll get a manifold flange to put between the manifold and the head to bring it out further.

 

[madhillbilly17]

if the turbo is high enough you mite be ok,once you come down more the block steps out so you need to bring it out more,from memory when i used a spacer plate on mine the exhaust manifold studs weren't long enough to get the nuts on,so i had to remove them and fit longer ones.

 

[CherryVimto]

A little more progress....

The flange mounting bolts have been drilled and tapped along with the mounting holes for the turbo....

Now I've got a nice job of getting the studs out from the turbo housing.....

 

[CherryVimto]

Almost done....

 

[madhillbilly17]

looking good mate http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Impact-Stud-Extractor-Removal-1-2-Drive-For-6-13mm-Studs-Bolts-/251039849298?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a73241b52" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[CherryVimto]

Thanks!

Funnily enough, I had looked at the stud extractors but decided to get the blow torch out and use a bit of heat. It's free to try and if it worked, then bonus.
Unfortunately, the blow torch didn't even touch them. I removed three of the studs by drilling through the middle of them and undoing them with a pair of pipe grips coupled with copious amounts of brute force.
The fourth snapped, twice so I'm left with a little bit left in the turbo housing.

I've now drilled the holes out to accept the mounting bolts, but still need to drill the last stud out.

 

[CherryVimto]

Manifold/turbo adapter plate complete...

There is a metal gasket between the turbo and the plate.
I've put exhaust paste between the plate and the manifold.

This may be a weird or unconventional way of joining the turbo to the manifold, but so far, it's only cost me £10 for the metal to do it, and I've cut, drilled and tapped it all myself.
I'd rather do something slightly different by doing it myself and getting the satisfaction at the end knowing that I did it.
Secondly, I've saved myself a bundle of cash!

 

[CherryVimto]

Things to do/look at...

Change oil, filters and plugs
Suspect rocket cover gasket leak
Replacement front discs

 

[CherryVimto]

Now off to Mr. Toms for my clutch change....

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

The fourth snapped, twice so I'm left with a little bit left in the turbo housing.

I've now drilled the holes out to accept the mounting bolts, but still need to drill the last stud out.

If you haven't taken it out yet, and since you can move a housing about, I'd go to someone with the mashine for electrocorrosion (I hope you understand what I am trying to say; I don't know if you are calling it the same in English). It will corrode that bolt to nothing without problems

 

[CherryVimto]

Thanks for the extra info on that, but I ended up drilling the last stud out. The turbo is now attached with bolts instead of studs.

A really productive day was had today......

New stage 1 fast road clutch fitted.
The slave cylinder I bought online was actually the wrong one but didn't know until I had the old one to compare it to. Mr Tom saved the day with a mad sprint to Euro Car parts before closing time.
The clutch was only about 3/4 worn but the slave cylinder had suffered a lot of wear. No wear on the flywheel.

We looked at the manufacturer name and the codes written on the clutch which was removed and worked out that the clutch was made in 1997. Coupled with the gearbox oil which was blacker than black, and the wear on the slave cylinder, we were pretty sure it was the original clutch. Not bad for a car which had just clocked over 147,000 miles!!
This has confirmed my suspicions that this Puma had spent most of its life cruising the motorways.

I've been having headlight beam level problems which Tom kindly sorted out.
I've still got an issue with the levelling motor on one side keeps jumping the headlight up and down, even after replacing the motor and the adjusted on the dash.

As Tom has a small selection of engines kicking around, I used one to test fit my turbo/manifold to check for clearances. The good news is it fits and just clears the back of the block!
The cold/inlet side is a bit close to the block where is goes out for the gearbox. So, I'm going to make another adapter plate but mount the turbo at a very slight angle to give better clearance on that side.
I'm pretty sure I've shown that it's possible to get a turbo mounted to the standard manifold yourself without having to get someone to weld it all up.

So, a really good day with lots done!

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

Thanks for the extra info on that, but I ended up drilling the last stud out. The turbo is now attached with bolts instead of studs.

Ok, good news! In the meantime I found it is EDM mashining in English.

Good work!

 

[CherryVimto]

Picked up a second hand Mocal oil cooler for a bargain price...

 

[Ginger Tom]

I wonder where you got that from........