Engine mounts to fit front lower strut brace

[HampusSoder]

Hi,

I have a lowering front strut brace I would like to have fitted, but the gearbox sits too low. So would need to replace mount(s).

I'm really just wondering which one(s) that needs replacing.

Would like to ship from demontweeks if possible, are those I need available and in that case which ones? https://www.demon-tweeks.com/eu/performance/engine-tuning/shop-by/vaa__vehicles_code/59171c139e540/

Also, is it possible to do the job yourself with only some jacks and is it a relatively easy job? I guess you put the car on jacks and have another jack under the engine to be able to regulate level in case it flexes?

 

[HampusSoder]

So I have concluded that the engine mount looks the same irl as on the demontweeks picture and is a mount that could cause the engine to sit lower.

Then it should be 2 more mounts and if I understand it correctly from looking under my car those 2 mounts sit together? the one further behind (https://www.demon-tweeks.com/eu/vibra-technics-performance-uprated-engine-mount-v-tfor145m/)not likely needing replacement. But the one further ahead is apparently the most likely one needing replacement.

So I guess this is where I should start: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/eu/vibra-technics-uprated-gearbox-mount-road-v-tfor150m/

Can anyone who's done the replacement tell me if they thought it was relatively easy? If it's logical to do yourself or if there's anything that can go wrong?

 

[HampusSoder]

Okay, so I figuerd out there weren't 2 together, that was only the one that didn't need replacing.

Found out the gearbox one that needs replacing is under the battery! Little experience of pretending to be a mechanic but I'm slowly figuring it out. :wink:

So I'm going to buy the road spec gearbox mount and also know where to put it. :cheer:

 

[HampusSoder]

Took a look and does indeed look like it's hanging low in the mount. Heard the Vibra upgrade is sensible also if you're going to fit 4-2-1 manifold which I'm guessing will be done sometime in the future so while it's expensive I think it's worth it.

 

[grogee]

Thanks for this. I've got same problem. I have the lower brace fitted but gearbox fouls it. So I've wrapped some thick rubber around where they clash. I'd like to replace mount(s) like you. Is the pic you uploaded the mount under the battery tray?

 

[CherryVimto]

The picture above is the passenger side/gearbox mount

 

[HampusSoder]

Thanks for this. I've got same problem. I have the lower brace fitted but gearbox fouls it. So I've wrapped some thick rubber around where they clash. I'd like to replace mount(s) like you. Is the pic you uploaded the mount under the battery tray?

Yes, it's the mount below the battery tray.

Happy to hear this post helped you. Seems to be a common issue. I'm gonna start replacing this mount and I'm expecting that to do the job, if not, I'm gonna change the engine mount on the other side (but looks like to me that this one never really goes that low when worn).

 

[DOH]

1) I note that your current mount on the RHS is beginning to tear
2) From previous comments on here , Vibra mounts have been known to be too stiff, causing a lot of vibration through the gear stick knob. I can't recall if it was the mount further back on the passenger side that mounts to the subframe. So have a "search" to be sure.
A useful tip to try is:
3) A useful workaround this problem to try is as follows:
Buy some rtv black silicon Sealnt eg Granville 310ml tube costing approx £7. Then jack up the gearbox so you have e.g. a fingers width clearance above the lower strut brace. Thoroughly degrease the Ruber mount with carb cleaner or brake cleaner or petrol, allow to dry thoroughly.

Then fill all the voids with the Black RTV silicon sealant and let it set.

Then let off the jack and see if you still have the required clearance.

That is what I would try first and if it doesn't work , you can use the remainder of the RTV to reseal your rocker gasket and thermostat housing .

Let us know if it works

:thumbs:

 

[HampusSoder]

Regarding vibra being too stiff - I think I read about it and that the "competition" one can be harsh but I think the road spec I'm going with should be fine.

I've seen others do the mod you're suggesting which sounds like a nice "budget" fix. Already ordered the vibra mount so just going to do the replacement.

 

[Brian']

The Vibratechnics is a pain to fit though. You need to push it into your old housing. Mine cracked and I bought a standard new mount

 

[HampusSoder]

The Vibratechnics is a pain to fit though. You need to push it into your old housing. Mine cracked and I bought a standard new mount

hmm, considering buying a standard new one just in case then. Hadn't heard of issues fitting the new mount in the old housing before. But I can understand it would be tight, maybe it's possible to sand it down slightly if it won't go in. as long as pressure is still required to get it fitted it shouldn't be an issue in terms of useability even if it's sanded down slightly.

 

[DOH]

Try putting the new mount in the freezer overnight and than warm the aluminium casing up that the mount has to fit into. That might help you .

 

[benbunny]

I replaced my engine mounts when I fitted my lower brace but wasn't happy with the spacing.

A few hits with hammer on the brace sorted that out! :grin:

 

[Brian']

I replaced my engine mounts when I fitted my lower brace but wasn't happy with the spacing.

A few hits with hammer on the brace sorted that out! :grin:

I have done the same! Still works like it should but just with more space

 

[grogee]

I changed mine today. However I used a pattern part and it wasn't really correct. The holes in the cross piece were threaded whereas the original had plain holes with studs coming up from gearbox mount. So I drilled these out. Then realised the cross piece was deeper which would push the gearbox lower so I ground it down a few mm. Then the nuts on the studs didn't really fit comfortably, ie didn't threat to nylon locking part.

Ended up taking the studs out (they're surprisingly easy to remove) and using M10 bolts through instead.

If you do need to remove the cast aluminium mount on the gearbox, note that the breather block on top just pulls out upwards.

Do not attempt this job if you don't have a 13mm rachet spanner... The bolts holding mount to body are nearly impossible to reach. You need to get underneath and hook your arm over the wishbone and driveshaft to reach them.

Sorry I realise this may not make a lot of sense without any pictures!

 

[grogee]

Found a pic. The 'cross piece' I'm referring to is in the middle of pic. This pic shows the original layout. I'm not sure that my rubber bush was very worn to be honest.

 

[grogee]

Oops here is the pic

 

[grogee]

If I was doing this again I would do this:
1) remove battery and tray
2) support gearbox underneath with jack
3) assess condition of rubber bush
4) remove the 2 nuts on the cross piece (15mm I think)
5) remove 3x 17mm nuts on gearbox cast bracket
6) remove studs with cross piece still in place - use stud remover tool
7) remove 3x studs from cast bracket - they have a male torx head that you can use a tool on
8) jack up box a few mm to get clearance to wiggle cast bracket out
9) remove material from top of cast bracket where it mates with cross piece. This will have the effect of pulling gearbox upwards a few mm
10) reassemble.

 

[DOH]

The Gearbox breather has to be fitted the correct way around , as many garages make this mistake. This results in gearbox oil leaks. Iirc there is an arrow on the top that must point towards the front.

 

[grogee]

The Gearbox breather has to be fitted the correct way around , as many garages make this mistake. This results in gearbox oil leaks. Iirc there is an arrow on the top that must point towards the front.

Please don't ask me how I know this is very good advice...