Fitting the Manifold

[Tomcat]

Finally got my new stainless manifold today. Thing is, is there any big difference between fitting the FRP manifold and fitting any other Ford manifold? You know, like the headache there is with fitting the FRP cambelt?

 

[Blue3]

As usual with the FRP it is a bit of a pain.

Did mine recently and it is very tight. Had to get the car jacked up nice and high to remove from underneath, remove the heatsheild first, also helps if you remove the lower gearbox mount/stabiliser (the one next to the gearlinkage that bolts back to the subframe) as you can then push the engine forward to give a bit more clearance. Remove the nuts and studs where it mounts into the head again it gives a bit more clearance.

Then with plenty of swearing and knuckles with no skin on it is a doddle !!!

Good Luck

Simon

 

[Tomcat]

Sounds great. Thanks.... :|

 

[madhillbilly17]

i found getting the cat out on a std puma harder to fit through the gap,fitting the 4-2-1 through the gap was easier if you find it abit tight push the engine forward and wedge it there with a block of wood. thats what i did to get the cat out

 

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

Its a right sod!..

As Simon said... car high as you dare.. , you'll definantly have to remove the lower gearbox mount and probably the gear linkage too so you can rock the engine as much as possible...

like the idea of wedging it forward...sounds good

an extra long ring spanner is useful when undoing the nuts at the engine... :idea:

iv'e got one of these... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Spanner-Extra-Long-Ring-13mm-x-15mm-/220517486008?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3357ddcdb8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

very handy for that awkward bolt round the back of the gearbox when doing a clutch..

rgds

 

[Tomcat]

How very odd. I've just got my new manifold fitted and it seems I'm not getting the exhaust pop anymore. Don't get me wrong, I'm quite happy to lose the clown car noise, but isn't the "pop" a natural trait of the FRP? :?

 

[Blue3]

Thats odd, I know my mates doesnt pop as much as mine, he has a miltek, i have a piper but both still pop.

simon

 

[jay FRP#401]

How very odd. I've just got my new manifold fitted and it seems I'm not getting the exhaust pop anymore. Don't get me wrong, I'm quite happy to lose the clown car noise, but isn't the "pop" a natural trait of the FRP? :?

you might have to build up the carbon on it first if its new, but dont sound good tho, id give it 100miles or so first mate,

 

[madhillbilly17]

was the battery disconnected? when the battery is disconnected it takes a bit for it to relearn i cant remember how many mile sorry, im sure someone else will come along soon that does know

 

[Tomcat]

you might have to build up the carbon on it first if its new, but dont sound good tho, id give it 100miles or so first mate,

Why doesn't it sound good, the fact that it's not popping anymore?

was the battery disconnected? when the battery is disconnected it takes a bit for it to relearn i cant remember how many mile sorry, im sure someone else will come along soon that does know

Got no idea 'cause I had a garage do it. All I know is that the sensor fell apart through decay and had to be replaced, if that makes any difference?

 

[madhillbilly17]

dont know if i was aloud to steal this but i did :lol:



Ford Technical:
After reconnecting battery, engine should be allowed to idle for 3 minutes, as stored idle and drive values contained within the powertrain control module have been lost. This may cause a driveability concern if the following is not carried out.

Once engine reaches normal operating temperature, revs should be increased to 1,200rpm and maintained for approximately 2 minutes. This will allow powertrain control module to relearn idle values. For powertrain control module to complete its learning strategy, vehicle should be driven for approximately 5 miles of varied driving.

 

[jay FRP#401]

i have heard this before,

id just do this first mate what madhillbilly17 said, maybe disconet battery again for 15mins and do this, also drive it about then see.
The sensor should be ok mate, but it would control the fuel, do you have any light on? I think its all got to learn and the new sensor to send info back to pcm. if not and still the same try another sensor, theres a ford one on ebay now £55 buy it now new. it wouldnt be the exhaust, as like to like. start with disconeting battery again mate.

 

[Tomcat]

I do know that the speedo's not been working since they've had it, if that's a sign of them disconnecting the battery?

 

[jay FRP#401]

not really mate, ive have my battery off for 8weeks and mine stills works round the shop. maybe there have disconeted the speedo in the gearbox, unsure reaaly, Have you do a clock test hold the button and start the car, when it flash press again an dit will go all throw thw clock, ive try this when mine was only reving to 6800, you can drive it and the miles turns into your speedo. also it will swepe the clocks both revs and speedo, try disconnecting it again and try the clocks and go from there mate,

 

[Flying Scotsman]

^up^

 

[Tomcat]

On the way back the car seemed to be drinking fuel like it was going out of fashion. Could that be something to do with the sensor too?

 

[jay FRP#401]

well it could be, it controls your fueling

 

[madhillbilly17]

sounds like the wrong sensor mite have been fitted then? if you had a garage fit it just take it back and tell them its not right

 

[jay FRP#401]

heres one on ebay mate.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-RACING-PUMA-NEW-OE-LAMBDA-SENSOR-/360374833676?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53e803920c" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[Tomcat]

heres one on ebay mate.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-RACING-PUMA-NEW-OE-LAMBDA-SENSOR-/360374833676?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53e803920c" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Is the sensor unique to the FRP?