Hi all I have a Melina blue 1.7 and wanted to improve the seats looks wise, Found seat fittings too difficult/timely to mess with so got a cheap set of KA sport seats and stripped off the covers to fit on the original seats instead of the cloth rubbish. The front covers are in 2 bits base and backs, once you have took out and stripped the cloth covers off, keeping the back/back black material you will find the way the covers pull over width wide plastic channels onto metal frame. KA seat back needs to fit in the same way, hard to pull down but will fit. BTW my puma is a mk1 so the seat pull knobs are there, I used the later catches just as blanks to fill the KA holes which are like the mk2 puma I think. The front head rests are the same centre's but the back ones need more work. The front KA bases are very simple in design, not as deep as the puma, hence height difference. So still using the plastic fronts some of that black plastic black leather comes in handy to make up the difference.
You will find the KA base has material with plastic strip on that clips in grooves on the base, by chance they are still used so don't cut them off when dis-assembling off KA base. Something to help the extra material to fit to also. Pulling the blue seat material back under the upright part off the seat is not easy either, takes some force, I used strong screw driver blades and the 2 part adjustable wrenches to pull with. You are trying to re-clip another long plastic U channel onto the metal frame.
The blue seat material changes to black cloth at the back as the KA seat is not as deep. I don't mind or notice it too much.
BTW I used some very strong cord throughout to pull everything together underneath, I used what builders use for brick laying called builders line, and a leather needle. The line is very cheap and is easy to get hold of, you need lots of it on the back seats.
The KA back seat upper backs are split and have head rests, no problem though as every thing you need is again in the old puma seats. Get the old KA covers off and slit the inside sides and sow them together so there is only about 10 to 15mm gap showing. ou will need the long plastic tubes off the KA tops for the new headrest holes to be drilled into the old puma metal back, there is a strong box channel all the way across, I only drilled the top part and it rests on the bottom part, the long plastic tubes are needed now. MAKE SURE the hole centre's are to suit the KA headrests which are not as wide as the fronts. THE BASE is OK no work needed here apart from 2 self tappers at the lower front of the base that can be seen.
Now you have a black metal back, back rest and a now full length KA cover. You will see the cover has bits curved on the top outer corners extra to a puma seat, I just used the foam out of the old KA back to fill this out later on. You use the puma foam still, the curved metal rods suit covers shape too. I used building line allot here with large penny washers on the hack of the foam to fix through to the metal rods, all becomes obvious. BTW to get the puma cover off the metal back you find again a plastic strip that fits into a groove that this time goes all around the seat, the KA joined cover does the same at the end. I have some photos if anyone is interested, looks like a sport inside now a big improvement. I followed the guide on here to do the front and back door cards also, using perfreated faux leather, had to be black as blue is hard to find.
You will find the KA base has material with plastic strip on that clips in grooves on the base, by chance they are still used so don't cut them off when dis-assembling off KA base. Something to help the extra material to fit to also. Pulling the blue seat material back under the upright part off the seat is not easy either, takes some force, I used strong screw driver blades and the 2 part adjustable wrenches to pull with. You are trying to re-clip another long plastic U channel onto the metal frame.
The blue seat material changes to black cloth at the back as the KA seat is not as deep. I don't mind or notice it too much.
BTW I used some very strong cord throughout to pull everything together underneath, I used what builders use for brick laying called builders line, and a leather needle. The line is very cheap and is easy to get hold of, you need lots of it on the back seats.
The KA back seat upper backs are split and have head rests, no problem though as every thing you need is again in the old puma seats. Get the old KA covers off and slit the inside sides and sow them together so there is only about 10 to 15mm gap showing. ou will need the long plastic tubes off the KA tops for the new headrest holes to be drilled into the old puma metal back, there is a strong box channel all the way across, I only drilled the top part and it rests on the bottom part, the long plastic tubes are needed now. MAKE SURE the hole centre's are to suit the KA headrests which are not as wide as the fronts. THE BASE is OK no work needed here apart from 2 self tappers at the lower front of the base that can be seen.
Now you have a black metal back, back rest and a now full length KA cover. You will see the cover has bits curved on the top outer corners extra to a puma seat, I just used the foam out of the old KA back to fill this out later on. You use the puma foam still, the curved metal rods suit covers shape too. I used building line allot here with large penny washers on the hack of the foam to fix through to the metal rods, all becomes obvious. BTW to get the puma cover off the metal back you find again a plastic strip that fits into a groove that this time goes all around the seat, the KA joined cover does the same at the end. I have some photos if anyone is interested, looks like a sport inside now a big improvement. I followed the guide on here to do the front and back door cards also, using perfreated faux leather, had to be black as blue is hard to find.
