Mk1 Focus RS powered Puma, now going RWD, JWRC

[d170sam]

Could be an air lock in the heater matrix, take it out for a blast and shake the car around a bit, might be an easy fix

 

[PumaNoob]

Thanks dude!

Errol,

The majority of the clutch line is from the states - Central Florida Motorsport. The ends to convert it at the master cylinder end came from here. The aluminum piece that fits the master cylinder is off another focus, some 1.6/1.8s I think. (I just went to the scrap yard and searched all the focus' for one - I got 3 because some of them have stood the test of time better than others!) I then got an adaptor to screw into this and give me an AN 3 fitting so I could cut the hose and re-make it off into the new fitting.

Let me know if you want links etc for the bits.

Thanks mate, if you could send me the links that would be awesome. I have one of those aluminium focus fittings, it came on a focus clutch pipe i brought!

With your speedo healer, is there an option to change the type of frequency it uses? Mine has an auto detect, but some dont and have to be manually calibrated, some use a voltage that increases with speed, some use pulses and pulse widths. It may just need setting up. And what route have you plumbed the heater in, has the heater ever worked with that engine?

 

[moondustka]

Could be an air lock in the heater matrix, take it out for a blast and shake the car around a bit, might be an easy fix

I drove around on it before, and didn't make a difference. I have had it sort itself like you mention, way back but when the car was running last, that time I just couldn't get it to work. Although that was with the other heater control panel that could have failed I guess. It's not on the ground yet and also, no tax, mot or insurance, so unfortunately I can't drive it :-(

Thanks mate, if you could send me the links that would be awesome. I have one of those aluminium focus fittings, it came on a focus clutch pipe i brought!

With your speedo healer, is there an option to change the type of frequency it uses? Mine has an auto detect, but some dont and have to be manually calibrated, some use a voltage that increases with speed, some use pulses and pulse widths. It may just need setting up. And what route have you plumbed the heater in, has the heater ever worked with that engine?

Pm'd about the clutch line.

The speedo healer just changes the frequency of a pulse as far as I can work out. I've been through all the set up etc. there's not much to it. Power in from speedo sensor, ground from speedo sensor, signal from speedo sensor and then signal out to clocks. Just doesn't seem to be reading anything or putting anything out. Sounds like a dead unit to me and the support guy keeps saying to try this and that, half of which I've already done. Still, he's trying to fix it, but I think it's just a duff unit. I honestly expected it to just work. I was pretty relieved though when I got a signal without the Speedo Healer, albeit the wrong one.

 

[PumaNoob]

Sounds just like a different version of what I have. But mine doesn't take the power or ground from the speedo sensor, have you tried taking your 12v and ground from a different source? It's annoying if it's a dead unit because you waste loads of time trying to work out what's wrong. Without the corrector, are you reading about 3 times the speed?

 

[moondustka]

Its odd. They say to wire it all the speedo sensor wiring but also states you can take power from another fused source. It's designed for motorcycles originally (but claim it works with any 3 wire or 2 wire speedo sensor and electronic clock)

If I put it in third and let it idle, it reads pretty much 40 mph.. which I'm guessing should be about 15mph, so yea.

I think this unit is dead. I've done all the voltage tests and they've come back fine. The unit itself seems to function in terms of display and programming, but it seems to do nothing with the signal it's getting and doesn't even register the signal. Weird - still in contact with them over email and they seem to want to sort it.

Frustrating as I thought I'd solved the last hurdle!

 

[Sjoerd]

Hi man, as you might know there is a Puma RS prototype from Ford itself as well. In this car they do use the standard IB5 gearbox. It should be able to handle pretty high powers with some modifications. The car is still up and running now for years on 280 bhp. Could be a bit more handy then to make these mods to the vehicle itself. The only mod Ford made was to change the cogs for a few with thicker, harder teeth.
Must say though, love the work so far! Keep it up!

 

[moondustka]

Shame I couldn't keep it - would have been a lot more simple!! But generally it is no comparison to the MTX75 which is pretty indestructible. My IB5 went on my last power hike which resulted in the 282 at the hubs, which I'd guess at being 330 at the fly. It was knackered anyway, something wasn't quite right with it from when I rebuilt it. It was all too stiff and every time I did an oil change, it would be like glitter!

Also, now I have it running (not driven yet), gear shifting is better than I'd thought. As a lot of people, including me think the IB5 gear change has a nice feel.

And thanks :grin:

 

[Fatttty]

Simply superb!

 

[moondustka]

Primer underneath floor and 3M sealer:





Finished painting in my 3M sealer






Finally got my speedo sorted! Wired in, but before resistor mods (I had to re-do all heatshrink after):



With many emails back and forth with Norbert from Healtech, we've managed to get their unit working with the FRS speed sensor. It turns out it's not the usual type (whatever that is). So with some measuring of voltages and different instances, Norbert suggested we needed 1 or 2 resistors between a couple of wires for the signal in and a couple of wires for the signal out. Now it works as it should!

When I'm able to drive the car normally I can use GPS to get an accurate speed and program the speedo healer. Should be much better than factory!

And, I never thought this day would come...



Low..



But not that low :? I might try lowering it a bit further. Was like it before, but now I've raised the exhaust slightly I think I can get it a bit lower to the ground.

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

Simply stunning!

 

[moondustka]

And a little cleaner...

Just got all the crap off it :lol: and while my brother continues with his Ka next to it it'll be under cover!

Still bits to do and plans for the future but at the moment it's back running :grin: won't be out on the road unfortunately as can't afford the insurance, MOT and tax. It also needs the paint going over, there's a couple of scratches from it being in the workshop the last 18 months sadly :-( after that, it's ready for a small mapping session checking it over and to see what this gearbox has done!

Hopefully later on in the year I'll look at getting some slicks on it :twisted:

 

[warrenpenalver]

Awesome looking project!!

 

[Xparty]

This Car.... PERFECT :twisted:

 

[Bentleya]

Looking good , keep up the good work!

 

[moondustka]

Thanks guys

I feel relieved that it's moving again!

Small update also. Got the spring for my gearstick (lift reverse) got it from ford, but cost almost £5!!

But wanted a Ford one to satisfy my OCD :lol:

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Moondustka
I thought I'd have a look at your thread after your comments on mine. You sure did have a few more (bigger?) floor patches than me but never mind that.... well done with all the fabrication work etc in getting in that engine and box and getting it all running!
Barry

 

[moondustka]

Thanks Barry.

Small update in one way, big in another..

Car is now insured, MOT'd & taxed!!! For the first time in over 18 months!

Also, I spent a little time racking my brain and my brother's to work out what the hell was wrong with the cooling/heating.

I had an over cooling problem that was blowing the header tank cap at higher rpm, and my internal heaters just didn't blow hot air. Both of which were down to plumbing issues!! :roll:

Still, the engine actually stays warm now instead of getting colder!

So next steps, get the map checked to make sure I'm not running lean top end and also some paintwork.

 

[PumaNoob]

That's excellent news mate, how does it feel to drive, have you missed her lol.

What was causing the over cooling, it's worth knowing incase I get any of the same issues.

 

[moondustka]

Driven the puma a little bit now and also had the map checked over.

I seem to have solved her header tank cap blowing issue, except it still does it on the dyno sometimes for some reason. I had a couple of plumbing issues which I've not sorted and it actually meant I could neaten it up a bit!

I then had this problem which I found after driving a few times! Flo-flex mounts I'm not really rating, although not designed for this purpose to be fair..





I ended up changing it for a Ford Motorsport bush from my brother's rear beam, and then wrapping the exhaust housing of the turbo.





Bit dirty from the heat wrap there but you get the idea. It doesn't look that great but it's made a huge difference to surrounding heat.

However, I've still got the issue of the engine not warming up properly. It gets to 75 degrees really white quickly, but then struggles to get any hotter no matter what you do. The only going this really points to is tehe thermostat, but it's not old at all and it's a Ford 92 stat. Will take out any test I think.

Here she is on the dyno anyhow:



She made 288hp / 282lbs ft at the hubs.

Taking into account a 15% transmission loss it would mean about 340hp. Which is pretty good from that diddly turbo, so I'm reasonably happy.

 

[PumaNoob]

That's really good, and I bet there's very little lag too! I know you've probably considered it, but are you sure your sensor is calibrated properly?? Might be worth putting a big sheet of card to cover your rad so air can't flow through it. That should see your engine get up to temp.

Mine took a while to get up to temp with the big rad but soon got up to temp when you put your foot down!