Mk1 Focus RS powered Puma, now going RWD, JWRC
- Thread starter moondustka
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yippeekiay
Well-known member
Nice work :thumbs:
Wish I was close to you as I would have done the welding of the bits as that's the only thing letting you down :lol:
Wish I was close to you as I would have done the welding of the bits as that's the only thing letting you down :lol:
moondustka
Active member
Daveysaff said:moondustka said:
If you do one in the next week or so, I'll have one! Can see this becoming a popular conversion now seeing as Puma prices are rock bottom!
Doubt I'll have that this week :lol:
I'm not so sure - It's a hell of a lot of work to get this engine in. 2.0 zetec would be easy as the IB5 'box is probably ok there. The FRS engine is a ballache.
yippeekiay said:
Blue3 said:
Thanks :-D
PumaNoob
New member
I'm no coded welde but those welds look pretty damn good to me!! Better then mine anyway!
moondustka
Active member
Does anyone know the best way of taking the brake servo off with minimal disruption to the 2 lines to the ABS pump?
I need to de-rust it and paint as it's looking tired as you can see from some of my previous pics!
I was thinking maybe I could loosen the 2 lines on the ABS pump, take the master cylinder off and kind of swing it out the way to get better access to the servo..
Thanks in advance
I need to de-rust it and paint as it's looking tired as you can see from some of my previous pics!
I was thinking maybe I could loosen the 2 lines on the ABS pump, take the master cylinder off and kind of swing it out the way to get better access to the servo..
Thanks in advance
moondustka
Active member
Wow, it's been a month already. I feel I haven't really done that much.
The picture's show what's happened anyhow.
New down pipe construction and welding. You can see the difference with my welding from back then and now:
It's not the best welding - but not bad from a £300 MIG and my self-taught ability :lol:
Then I smoothed it back a bit as I wanted the heat wrap to go on as flat as possible.
And coated:
Next, I finally received the braided clutch line from the states. Cost a fortune to get here with import tax as well.
I needed to get it to use the billet adaptor into the MTX release bearing/slave cylinder. At the puma end, some Ford Focus's come with an aluminium adaptor and I was able to use this with another adaptor. I think the pictures tell most of the story.
I had my boost pipe and top mounts sprayed in FRS Mk2 lime green (only pics of pipe):
Managed to wiggle my brake servo out without disconnecting any lines or draining any fluid. I then sanded it and kurusted it all. I've now got it in a fair few layers of primer, so I'm going to sand any minor mark I can still see, then maybe another coat, then spray it black.
So some progress has happened! I'm not really in any rush now as the weather isn't so good. I never knew all this was going to take so long!!
Thanks for previous comments.
The picture's show what's happened anyhow.
New down pipe construction and welding. You can see the difference with my welding from back then and now:
It's not the best welding - but not bad from a £300 MIG and my self-taught ability :lol:
Then I smoothed it back a bit as I wanted the heat wrap to go on as flat as possible.
And coated:
Next, I finally received the braided clutch line from the states. Cost a fortune to get here with import tax as well.
I needed to get it to use the billet adaptor into the MTX release bearing/slave cylinder. At the puma end, some Ford Focus's come with an aluminium adaptor and I was able to use this with another adaptor. I think the pictures tell most of the story.
I had my boost pipe and top mounts sprayed in FRS Mk2 lime green (only pics of pipe):
Managed to wiggle my brake servo out without disconnecting any lines or draining any fluid. I then sanded it and kurusted it all. I've now got it in a fair few layers of primer, so I'm going to sand any minor mark I can still see, then maybe another coat, then spray it black.
So some progress has happened! I'm not really in any rush now as the weather isn't so good. I never knew all this was going to take so long!!
Thanks for previous comments.
moondustka
Active member
So, I finished the brake servo. Looks much better now..
And strengthened my subframe, as I wasn't too sure about the bit I cut out for the cables and it wasn't all needed in the end. I didn't spend too much time on it really - I may get another subframe at some point and do a better job with it off the car and get the whole thing powder-coated.
I also had the same problem in sorting out the speedo signal as Errol. I found this device, actually designed for motorbikes, but also works with cars, vans etc. with a 2 or 3 wire speed sensor. Really pleased with it - it's so small! and should take about 20 mins to install:
Then onto my floor - pictures speak for themselves I think
Almost there!
And strengthened my subframe, as I wasn't too sure about the bit I cut out for the cables and it wasn't all needed in the end. I didn't spend too much time on it really - I may get another subframe at some point and do a better job with it off the car and get the whole thing powder-coated.
I also had the same problem in sorting out the speedo signal as Errol. I found this device, actually designed for motorbikes, but also works with cars, vans etc. with a 2 or 3 wire speed sensor. Really pleased with it - it's so small! and should take about 20 mins to install:
Then onto my floor - pictures speak for themselves I think
Almost there!
alexwilliams840
New member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2011
- Messages
- 1,744
i f*cking love this project.
how did you get your servo out? mine needs repainting too
how did you get your servo out? mine needs repainting too
moondustka
Active member
Thanks man - hopefully this time it won't break!
I did manage to eek it out in the end and same for back in. Undo the 4 nuts round the back of the servo on the monting bracket. Then pull forward a little. Down in the middle of the mounting bracket is the rod, nylon coated bolt and split pin. Remove the split pin and pull out the bolt - it's tricky! Lots of cursing here :lol:
Then undo the two nuts that hold the master cylinder on. Pull this away, just be careful with the brake lines as much as possible. It will pull out enough. It might be worth asking for a second pair of hands to hold it just enough to lift the servo out of place.
This way, no draining of fluid and having to bleed everything.
I did manage to eek it out in the end and same for back in. Undo the 4 nuts round the back of the servo on the monting bracket. Then pull forward a little. Down in the middle of the mounting bracket is the rod, nylon coated bolt and split pin. Remove the split pin and pull out the bolt - it's tricky! Lots of cursing here :lol:
Then undo the two nuts that hold the master cylinder on. Pull this away, just be careful with the brake lines as much as possible. It will pull out enough. It might be worth asking for a second pair of hands to hold it just enough to lift the servo out of place.
This way, no draining of fluid and having to bleed everything.
alexwilliams840
New member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2011
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the fact there is no bleeding involved makes it worth it, i'll have a crack at mine tomorrow
thanks for the tips! :thumbs:
thanks for the tips! :thumbs:
moondustka
Active member
Definitely - I really couldn't face getting brake fluid everywhere and bleeding everything. It's a boring thankless task, although the brakes are pretty important :lol:
alexwilliams840
New member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2011
- Messages
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mate one question, what the fuck did you use to get the split pin off with :-D
swearing at it doesn't persuade it at all
EDIT: As soon as i could reach it, it came straight off think i got lucky
swearing at it doesn't persuade it at all
EDIT: As soon as i could reach it, it came straight off
think i got lucky
moondustka
Active member
It is a difficult one! Glad you got it off.. You'll need someone inside the car to push the brake pedal when you refit it to get the holes lined up so you can fit the pin in again. Not the easiest either!
alexwilliams840
New member
- Joined
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haha cheers for the advice, but damn you for inspiring me to tidy mine up :lol:
moondustka
Active member
So, I'm nearly there with the floor - got the inside finished anyway
For some reason it looks patchy in the photos - doesn't in reality but it's going under the carpet anyway.
Then I got some 3M PU seam sealer in a tube, beaded this down the seams and brushed them out to give the 'Ford' look.
Looks all dusty :roll: I must have hoovered this car nearly 10 times during this process! :lol:
Used Thermotec heat tape to cover parts close to the down pipe..
Finally got my turbo and down pipe back in
Then I set about mounting the airbag module again. Surprisingly, this turned out better than I'd expected.
Then neatened up, painted and re-fitted. This is really sturdy believe it or not! The thing is like rock, which is how I wanted it and how it needed to be given that I think it's mounted directly to the floor for a reason.
And wiring tucked in, close, but not too tight. I put some rubber trim on the support for the dash anyway.
Made up this little bracket to support a water hose and oil drain from turbo near the crank position sensor.
Meanwhile, someone decided to bump our Leon and leave without a care in the world:
I then realised I had a slight fouling on my subframe and a CV boot which resulted in re-jigging it slightly. As I mentioned previously I think I'll be getting another one next year and re-doing the bits I've modded a bit better and get the whole thing powder-coated.
Replaced heater control panel with a non A/C version. A little scratched, but it will do for now - I hope it works as I've been having trouble with it all.
I think that's all! I also went to get it ready for starting Friday night and found I couldn't get any oil pressure. Eventually I found out that because the engine has been sitting there so long, the oil pump had become very dry and was just spinning in air and not creating any suction. So I back filled the oil line to the pump and checked it pumped back up which it did. Saturday I made sure I goot 40 psi pressure just from cranking it on the starter. I then coonnected ECU, ignition and I could hear a fuel leak. Feed O ring for the rail had split so replaced that. Then finally early evening on Saturday started her up.. a few seconds crank and she was away. Sounded a little rough on idle as I haven't sorted the VSS yet... but very pleased, it's been a long time coming!
For some reason it looks patchy in the photos - doesn't in reality but it's going under the carpet anyway.
Then I got some 3M PU seam sealer in a tube, beaded this down the seams and brushed them out to give the 'Ford' look.
Looks all dusty :roll: I must have hoovered this car nearly 10 times during this process! :lol:
Used Thermotec heat tape to cover parts close to the down pipe..
Finally got my turbo and down pipe back in
Then I set about mounting the airbag module again. Surprisingly, this turned out better than I'd expected.
Then neatened up, painted and re-fitted. This is really sturdy believe it or not! The thing is like rock, which is how I wanted it and how it needed to be given that I think it's mounted directly to the floor for a reason.
And wiring tucked in, close, but not too tight. I put some rubber trim on the support for the dash anyway.
Made up this little bracket to support a water hose and oil drain from turbo near the crank position sensor.
Meanwhile, someone decided to bump our Leon and leave without a care in the world:
I then realised I had a slight fouling on my subframe and a CV boot which resulted in re-jigging it slightly. As I mentioned previously I think I'll be getting another one next year and re-doing the bits I've modded a bit better and get the whole thing powder-coated.
Replaced heater control panel with a non A/C version. A little scratched, but it will do for now - I hope it works as I've been having trouble with it all.
I think that's all! I also went to get it ready for starting Friday night and found I couldn't get any oil pressure. Eventually I found out that because the engine has been sitting there so long, the oil pump had become very dry and was just spinning in air and not creating any suction. So I back filled the oil line to the pump and checked it pumped back up which it did. Saturday I made sure I goot 40 psi pressure just from cranking it on the starter. I then coonnected ECU, ignition and I could hear a fuel leak. Feed O ring for the rail had split so replaced that. Then finally early evening on Saturday started her up.. a few seconds crank and she was away. Sounded a little rough on idle as I haven't sorted the VSS yet... but very pleased, it's been a long time coming!
PumaNoob
New member
Looks like good progress mate, what fittings did you use for that clutch pipe, looks really good, could do with something like that myself!
moondustka
Active member
Xparty said:
Thanks dude!
Errol,
The majority of the clutch line is from the states - Central Florida Motorsport. The ends to convert it at the master cylinder end came from here. The aluminum piece that fits the master cylinder is off another focus, some 1.6/1.8s I think. (I just went to the scrap yard and searched all the focus' for one - I got 3 because some of them have stood the test of time better than others!) I then got an adaptor to screw into this and give me an AN 3 fitting so I could cut the hose and re-make it off into the new fitting.
Let me know if you want links etc for the bits.
moondustka
Active member
Almost there now.. Over the weekend I finished the floor, I have a bit left to sort out on the O/S rear sill, but I'll sort that properly next year.
The engine is running nicely still which is always nice. However, I can't get this speedo healer to work. It's all wired correctly as without it the speedo works - it just shows the wrong speed. Have contacted the support but they don't seem to have any real solutions.
The other problem I've had for a long time is I can't seem to get any heat out of the blowers. I changed the heater valve a while ago for a new one, but I'm thinking that it's still the problem as I've also changed the heater panel. The new heater valve wasn't a genuine ford item. Is it worth trying this again, but getting the genuine one?
The engine is running nicely still which is always nice. However, I can't get this speedo healer to work. It's all wired correctly as without it the speedo works - it just shows the wrong speed. Have contacted the support but they don't seem to have any real solutions.
The other problem I've had for a long time is I can't seem to get any heat out of the blowers. I changed the heater valve a while ago for a new one, but I'm thinking that it's still the problem as I've also changed the heater panel. The new heater valve wasn't a genuine ford item. Is it worth trying this again, but getting the genuine one?
