Again, I would advise STRONLGY not to use any similar sort of product
Oil leaking
- Thread starter palix91
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RoadWarrior
Member
The stop oil leaking stuff is junk. As is the stuff you put in the coolant to fix your radiator from leaking, strip the engine down after using a coolant product that stops leaks, and you'll see they clog up the water ports and will inevitably seize your engine or cause head gasket failure.
1) The Wynns version or another Trade version known as Forte (costs more doesn't work any better)both work and are used by many garages in the UK successfully fixing the problem. I repeat that it can take more than 1 tin to fix.
2)
. Agreed that this happens , but the reason for this happening is because it hasn't been cut up with a blade fine enough, before applying to the coolant reservoir.
The only product that I have found to work is Bars seal( Solid crumbly capsule) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bars-BAS050-50g-Seal/dp/B005ILZ1PKand a lot of motor factors don't stock it anymore purely because later products that were introduced for the Rover K-series cost a lot more & results in it being more profitable for the store to stock it. (Read the customer reviews on the link provided).
All BMC group cars used Bars Seal applied to the coolant system, on the production line. Please be aware that many cars left the Triumph, Rover and Jaguar factories in the 60's & 70's with the bottom radiator hose clip not tightened adequately and the only thing that stopped them leaking was the Bars Seal (iirc it was developed for Rolls Royce, also an aluminium block).
90% of the people that use it crumble large bits into the radiator , which are too large to pass through the radiator fins and find the leak or as you say clog up waterways .However if it is correctly applied with granules chopped to the size of sugar grain , it will float to where the leak is and set when it comes into contact with oxygen . The remainder floats around the coolant to fix the next leak
This happens when you use that sort of products instead of sorting the problem itself the proper way...
https://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=30585&p=361127&hilit=FRP128#p361127
https://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=30585&p=361127&hilit=FRP128#p361127
The products I have recommended are not liquid metal products! Perhaps you are unfamiliar with them as they may not be available in Croatia?They do not cause any harm whatsoever! Unless you have actually used those identical products successfully without problems, then I am sorry but you are wrong to criticise someone who has over 40 years experience within the automotive industry and has worked on the cars and engines of the most expensive marques made.
Everyone has the right to their own opinion , however your comments are wrong and not base on the specific products I have recommended.
I would hope that you realise that not all products composition are the same and that there are good and bad products out there. However those products have been used for decades in the UK without problem by like minded Automotive engineers, not purely grease monkey mechanics!
It is my understanding that the purpose forum is intended to share technical information , that will assist others with a Puma.
Or am I missing something?
Everyone has the right to their own opinion , however your comments are wrong and not base on the specific products I have recommended.
I would hope that you realise that not all products composition are the same and that there are good and bad products out there. However those products have been used for decades in the UK without problem by like minded Automotive engineers, not purely grease monkey mechanics!
It is my understanding that the purpose forum is intended to share technical information , that will assist others with a Puma.
Or am I missing something?
I am very sorry that I have offended you. I do have extensive experience with cars and have always tried to fix the problem in the first place.
I really do not know how the products you recommend differ from the ones mentioned in the separate thread, I am just being cautious as these engines are very rare and parts are becoming impossible to find. So, IMHO it is easier to do it properly without using products which are, mind you, not approved by Ford.
So, once again I apologise, I am just being cautios, that is all.
I really do not know how the products you recommend differ from the ones mentioned in the separate thread, I am just being cautious as these engines are very rare and parts are becoming impossible to find. So, IMHO it is easier to do it properly without using products which are, mind you, not approved by Ford.
So, once again I apologise, I am just being cautios, that is all.
Hi from the link you provided Chris had posted
There are products out there now that have metal additives that are supposed to coat the big end and Main bearings as they have copper in .
I have never used such a product and cannot say whether it works or not, although I doubt it would work and I also would also strongly advise against using such a product in the Puma 1.7 engine. I would not be good to Have bits of copper floating in the oil of an engine with nikisil bores.
However the product (please read the technical description within the link I provided ) restores the elasticity of Neoprene rubber oil seals, which eventually stops oil leaks from the seals over time.
That products application is nothing to do with a product that Chris described in his post.
I cannot speak any Croatian and I understand that you have far better English than my Croatian .Sorry but I had searched to try and send you a Technical description in Croatian for your appraisal .I am unaware if you are familiar with this particular product as it may not be marketed or available in your country. So perhaps either yourself or other establishments near to you have not had the opportunity to try it for yourselves?
It does appear on this occasion that you have dismissed my advise of products unfairly without reading the product descriptions, which are available in the link I provided.
I hope you also realise that Ford (like all Car manufacturers) do not manufacture most of the engine Transmission , suspension or electrical parts of the cars they manufacture.
Some examples include GKN, NTN bearings , Glyco, Gates , Bosch , Nippon Denso NGK , NTK Elring, Vandervell, Payen etc
Do you only fit a Timing belt from Fords despite it being manufactured by Gates, just because it comes in a Ford Box?
The products I have recommended have been used for decades, Bars Seal has been used on the production line of most manufacturers to seal off water leaks from frost plugs and also hoses & Radiators.
Fords used to sell it in their parts department!
We are all here to try and help each other .
I see no justifiable reason for someone to have to completely strip an engine and rebuild it which would in the UK cost more than the value of the car in the UK.
The aim here is to help Forum members keep their cars on the Road as cheaply as possible so that their Puma doesn't end up being scrapped.
Unfortunately the previous owner (or their garage) thought it a great idea to cure all the numerous leaking issues with a bottle of 'liquid metal' type leak stop compound... well, it was also put into the gearbox as that came out a nice bitty orangy brown shit mess too..
There are products out there now that have metal additives that are supposed to coat the big end and Main bearings as they have copper in .
I have never used such a product and cannot say whether it works or not, although I doubt it would work and I also would also strongly advise against using such a product in the Puma 1.7 engine. I would not be good to Have bits of copper floating in the oil of an engine with nikisil bores.
However the product (please read the technical description within the link I provided ) restores the elasticity of Neoprene rubber oil seals, which eventually stops oil leaks from the seals over time.
That products application is nothing to do with a product that Chris described in his post.
I cannot speak any Croatian and I understand that you have far better English than my Croatian .Sorry but I had searched to try and send you a Technical description in Croatian for your appraisal .I am unaware if you are familiar with this particular product as it may not be marketed or available in your country. So perhaps either yourself or other establishments near to you have not had the opportunity to try it for yourselves?
It does appear on this occasion that you have dismissed my advise of products unfairly without reading the product descriptions, which are available in the link I provided.
I hope you also realise that Ford (like all Car manufacturers) do not manufacture most of the engine Transmission , suspension or electrical parts of the cars they manufacture.
Some examples include GKN, NTN bearings , Glyco, Gates , Bosch , Nippon Denso NGK , NTK Elring, Vandervell, Payen etc
Do you only fit a Timing belt from Fords despite it being manufactured by Gates, just because it comes in a Ford Box?
The products I have recommended have been used for decades, Bars Seal has been used on the production line of most manufacturers to seal off water leaks from frost plugs and also hoses & Radiators.
Fords used to sell it in their parts department!
We are all here to try and help each other .
I see no justifiable reason for someone to have to completely strip an engine and rebuild it which would in the UK cost more than the value of the car in the UK.
The aim here is to help Forum members keep their cars on the Road as cheaply as possible so that their Puma doesn't end up being scrapped.
Frank
Member
Indeed we are.DOH said:
However, I see no justifiable reason for someone to attack another member for holding a different belief system. I say that as the 'technical information' boils down to 'The Wynn's Engine Stop Leak is a special blend of chemicals' which is not exactly peer reviewed indisputable scientific evidence. This means it could be the greatest product ever invented or a bottle of Dr Feelgood that is also equally as good for whooping cough or curing boils.
So, like religion, in the absence of facts, and that does not include anecdotal evidence, we turn to belief and should respect those holding different beliefs.
I also am slightly troubled by the emphasis on this Croatian/UK aspect that I am reading, especially as there are some/many that hold a similar view in the UK - https://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/topic/287072-wynns-stop-leak-oil/
We are actually all here to respect each other for a start. That begins with accepting an apology with good grace, in my view.
XAF
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2012
- Messages
- 1,056
Agreed Frank, and I’m sorry to say on this occasion DOH I feel it’s you who has overstepped the mark just because someone doesn’t feel the way you do.
Sinisa is allowed to have his opinion, and I for one share his views. I’d not put any kind of stop leak in my engine, metal based otherwise. That’s just my choice.
Sinisa is allowed to have his opinion, and I for one share his views. I’d not put any kind of stop leak in my engine, metal based otherwise. That’s just my choice.
palix91
New member
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2017
- Messages
- 29
I was just wondering If by any chance I could use different oil. Previous owner used this http://www.arclub.cz/diskuze/pictures/pict_20100406_205728.jpg
I chaned it to Ford F-Formula 10w30. And based on Wild E. Coyotes advice its leaking through camshaft, crankshaft seals. Is there any chance to decrease leaking with different oil? If not, should I change oil after 10-15k KM? :grin: I'm pouring half a litre every 1000km now so it's still running with new oil :grin:
I chaned it to Ford F-Formula 10w30. And based on Wild E. Coyotes advice its leaking through camshaft, crankshaft seals. Is there any chance to decrease leaking with different oil? If not, should I change oil after 10-15k KM? :grin: I'm pouring half a litre every 1000km now so it's still running with new oil :grin:
With regard to fixing coolant loss
From my parts store, Below is an example including the part number of a Bars Seal repackaged and then sold in A Vauxhall GM approved part box for approximately double the price,
I have included the instructions on the back(sorry for the poor quality I only have a basic phone).
I have also in the past purchased the same product from a Ford main dealer, but in a Ford Box.
The only problem with this product is the instructions do not state to cut the pellet up into the size of sugar grain, just crumbling it into the radiator will not fix anything as it won't get past/through the radiator cores, let alone the even finer cored heater matrix.
The key here is using the product that has been proven in industry for over 50 years in the way I have described . It will then stop the leak without causing blockages.
From my parts store, Below is an example including the part number of a Bars Seal repackaged and then sold in A Vauxhall GM approved part box for approximately double the price,
I have included the instructions on the back(sorry for the poor quality I only have a basic phone).
I have also in the past purchased the same product from a Ford main dealer, but in a Ford Box.
The only problem with this product is the instructions do not state to cut the pellet up into the size of sugar grain, just crumbling it into the radiator will not fix anything as it won't get past/through the radiator cores, let alone the even finer cored heater matrix.
The key here is using the product that has been proven in industry for over 50 years in the way I have described . It will then stop the leak without causing blockages.
