Poor Idle = Incorrect oil?

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wez

New member
Joined
Oct 15, 2010
Messages
21
Location
Gateshead, North East
Hi folks,

I've been having problems with a rough idle in my 1.7 puma.

Tried lots of things including cleaning iscv (twice) and a few other things, but problems is still there.

Heres a link to my issues in a different post: http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=144249#p144249" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Anyway,

I've had the car in a garage, they plugged the diags in, it came up with only one fault code.
It was a Cam position sensor reading too high/low intermittantly.

It was temporarly swapped with a known good one and ecu reset, no fault codes came up on the diags, but still had the same fault with a very poor idle & sometimes stalling completely.

The mechanic says the engine sounds like it has the incorrect oil in.
I know your run of the mill zetecs are supposed to always have 5-30 in them or they can missfire a tad, but does the 1.7 puma zetec suffer from the same issue, and could incorrect oil really make it run as bad as it is?

Thanks for any pointers.
 
I would tentatively say yes, wrong oil would make a difference as the 1.7 is very fussy since it was tuned by Yamaha ;)
 
I'd say no... a different grade of oil will not make it run that badly...

just because it didn't register a fault code doesn't count for much...

contaminant in the fuel tank..??? changed the fuel filter..?
 
i drowe a 10-40 magnatech , 5-30 soft tech, 0-30 EDGE :twisted: the car ran the same ... only vhen i drowe TOTAL QUARZ 9000 ..it was using up oil like crazy ..almoust 0.5 liters per 2000 kilometers ....now it's using 0.5 liters per 5000 kilometrs .....what is preaty normal ...since im always pushing it to the max rews :twisted:
 
cheers for the input.
yip i've had ecu reset done on diags computer (a few times) and also removed both battery terminals and left them bridged overnight.

havent changed fuel filter though, i'd be very suprised if it was that, it seems more of a sensor/electrical issue, as it idles fine for the the first 2-3 mins, then all of a sudden goes 'lumpy', as if its getting duff info from a sensor (or vaccum pipe??)

hmm... bloody pest :lol:
 
Check the power steering sensor on the front PS pipe under the front panel. The cable into it gets brittle over time and breaks. This will mean the engine won't be getting the correct signal from the PS pump and the engine will run lumpy or with a high tickover speed.
 
hi, thanks hotrod, i've already (visually) checked that plug and looks in good condition, gave it a wiggle but made no difference.
will check breathers at the weekend.
might give it an oil change anyway.
it really has got me stumped.
 
A bit more info, when the car is first started in the morning, it wil idle fine for the first few mins. Revs are at about 1200 rpm at this point as its on cold start. as soon as it comes off cold start/choke, the idle goes bad again.

Is there some sort of sensor that the car doesnt read until its 'off choke'.
I've cleaned the idle control valve (twice) and made no difference. If i unplug the connector from the idle valve, the car wont tick over at all.... so i guess the valve is working ok? Or could it still be faulty? Any way of checking?
 
Sounds like the ECU thinks the engine is still cold when it has warmed up......keeping the choke on.
 
sounds like mine. fixed with timing checked and new fuel pump. a good dealer with a good reader helpled!
 
Hi folks, bit of an update... hope it will help others.

EASY FIX!!

On the bottom of the throttle body there are 4 points to attach vaccum hoses onto, one to fuel pressure regulator, one to brake servo, didnt see where the other pipe went, and a 'blank'... guess its used if you have a different model or engine setup... well, its supposed to have a rubber bung on it to blank it off, my rubber bung was missing, causing a huge air leak.

Spotted it just having a nose about, as soon as i noticed it was missing I put my finger on the connection to block it... problem instantly cured!! :D

Currently got a bit of pipe on it with a big screw in the end to blank it off till i can get a correct 'bung'

Sorted, after months of meesing about - summink simple in the end :roll:

And on another note, the tin exhaust heatshield started dragging on the ground tonight, so i crawled under ripped it off :lol:

Many thanks for all your input, help and suggestions.
 
wez said:
On the bottom of the throttle body there are 4 points to attach vaccum hoses onto, one to fuel pressure regulator, one to brake servo, didnt see where the other pipe went, and a 'blank'... guess its used if you have a different model or engine setup... well, its supposed to have a rubber bung on it to blank it off, my rubber bung was missing, causing a huge air leak.
Spotted it just having a nose about, as soon as i noticed it was missing I put my finger on the connection to block it... problem instantly cured!!
Currently got a bit of pipe on it with a big screw in the end to blank it off till i can get a correct 'bung'

I'd forgotten about that, as I've only heard of this happening once before, a very long time ago. That ended up being fixed in the same way you have done.
I don't think they are available for Ford. Best bet is a breakers, I think you need a Puma, as I seem to recollect it's unique to them, but not 100% positive.
Some look like "Top Hats", others like this:
 
I'll have a look on my old Puma and see if it's there, if you want me to?
 
Yip, that looks like what i need.
Cheers patch, i'll sort something out locally though, dont worry.

Just thought i'd post up the issue incase someone in the future has the same problem, this post may pop up if they use the search function.

Cheers all, happy Puma-ing :cool:
 

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