REAR ARCHES REPAIRED IN BIRMINGHAM?

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clarkie

New member
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
331
Location
birmingham
both rear arches are in need of cutting out and having new ones welded in... not bothered about getting sprayed as i have a respray planned further in the year but i want them cut out and the work done PROPERLY... and just left in primer would suffice for a few months really... anyone know where or who i could go to that would do it at a good price and do it right.
 
I wouldn't take my car to Pumabuild if it broke down outside them! :lol:
 
DO NOT leave in primer. Primer is porous and absorbs moisture by design(for topcoat). This would only waste the work you would have done. Put a protective topcoat on the primer and you can rub down later. :eek:k:
 
mix2000 said:
DO NOT leave in primer. Primer is porous and absorbs moisture by design(for topcoat). This would only waste the work you would have done. Put a protective topcoat on the primer and you can rub down later. :eek:k:

this work the same putting a protective UNDERcoat before the primer? gonna sand mine down to bare metal and treat with Bilt Hamber hydrate 80, then primer/paint/lacquer.
 
Most rust proofers are water soluble and can remain unpainted for short periods of time, you're only asking for trouble not topcoating. A cheap aerosol of acrylic topcoat will save you loads in the long run. IMO :eek:k:
 
I put some Hydrate 80 on my rear arch last June (nearly 10 months ago) and also a fair bit on my rear beam just so I could use up what I'd put into a small container. It goes a long way and even though I didn't prepare the surfaces properly by removing any scabby paint etc it has done a brilliant job in stopping any further rust. I still have bubbles on my paintwork around the drivers wheel arch that were there before it was treated (didn't expect them to disappear...lol) but none of them have broken through.

I have to stress that I didn't put anything over the top of the treatment and as I said above I didn't prepare the areas as good as I could have but it's been open to the elements for the whole of that 10 months and has to be applauded for the job it's done so far ;)

As your going to be putting primer, paint and laquer on top then I'd be pretty confident you won't have to worry about it for some time as long as the paint surface isn't damaged in the future. I did read that using a water based primer and not then putting paint on immediately after could be a problem, probably better putting nothing on at all than putting a primer on and leaving it for paint later.
 
cheers guys iv decdided to treat the areas for now and get them cut out and repaired and painted etc all at the same time now.. found a good bodyshop that does insurance work and works on modified cars too so ideal for me and the fact he is doing insurance work on bently, ferrari, audi, and merc must mean he is decent :) i was impressed with his finishes anyway and theres a valeting company attached to his unit too which means all prep dust and all the crap usially picked up from garages gets removed before i pick it up :)
 
Clarkie i've been thinking about this too. 236 is going into a body shop this coming monday for some TLC on the rear arches but i'm eventually going to get Pumaspeed GRP parts on the rear since it should eleminate the rust factor. Still might rot eventually but hopefully not as fast as the rust sets in on Zinc covered steel.
 
i really wouldnt replace genuine with grp parts, they never fit right and will need no end of prep work to get them perfect normally. id stick with the metal and just treat it properly and treat it once... treat inner arch linings and seal them, cut out all rust and a good bit extra around it and treat and cuts you make with rust preventative, replace with nice sniny rust free metal and treat, prep paint properly and your car should be rust free for years to come.. get yourself some of the protector filsm so you dont suffer the stone chips and it should maintain that fresh mint look.
 
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