Rust - Is this worth repairing??

[rob987_0]

I got my puma last september and have spent around £1000 on it since. I just started working on the rust today, and after closer inspection I'm wondering whether it's even worth working on.

I started chiselling away some of the rust under the arch and as can see in the image the metal has just crumbled away to the point where there is a hole into the box section behind.

All of that rusted metal will quite easily just drop off. Now I'm wondering, do I continue chiselling away till the rusted metal has disappeared and I can see into the box section, and then paint with bilt hamber hydrate 80, or just leave it as it is, and paint with hydrate 80?

If I remove all of the rot, can any holes be filled with a filler?

I didn't think it would be as bad as it is, I'm wondering whether I should even bother at all. I love the puma and don't want to get rid of it, but the rust isn't looking too good!

 

[zinc2000]

Simple rule....If you chop metal out you have to put more metal in.

Filler is never a good option on anything other than body panels, even then you have to bridge the hole with metal where possible.

If it helps, I have seen much worse than that

 

[tuonokid]

Decision time. If the bottom of the wheel arch is as bad as that, there will be worse areas. If you are looking for cheap transport maybe it's the time to let it go but if you want to preserve another possible classic Ford it's time to reach for the angle grinder and the Mig.
The good thing about Ford not using any weather protection underneath the rear of Pumas is that they're less likely to set on fire when you weld them (As long as you remove the tank)

 

[rob987_0]

Decision time. If the bottom of the wheel arch is as bad as that, there will be worse areas. If you are looking for cheap transport maybe it's the time to let it go but if you want to preserve another possible classic Ford it's time to reach for the angle grinder and the Mig.
The good thing about Ford not using any weather protection underneath the rear of Pumas is that they're less likely to set on fire when you weld them (As long as you remove the tank)

I'm going to get a good look under the chassis this week and see what the condition is. I have no idea how to weld, it maybe something for a body shop to do. I bought the car to do up as a project so the rust doesn't put me off too much, but I don't want it to cost me an absolute fortune!

Do you know if Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 likely to set on fire?

 

[tuonokid]

No Idea but it sounds like one of those acid treatments which just stabilise rust so I would imagine it wouldn't burn.
Unfortunately body shops cost a fortune to do welding work on complicated structures such as around the chassis rails and bottom of the sills or back street garages do bodge jobs to get a car through one MOT. I am used to restoring older cars and fabricating and welding panels to suit but if you're not I would seek advice. Looking at that one photo of yours I would say that both flanges want cutting out and replacing with new metal but your main problem will be forward of that where the inner sill meets the chassis rail and the outer sill..... Good luck!
Barry

 

[JonnyP]

Fertan is meant to be one of the best treatments for rust.

 

[rob987_0]

No Idea but it sounds like one of those acid treatments which just stabilise rust so I would imagine it wouldn't burn.
Unfortunately body shops cost a fortune to do welding work on complicated structures such as around the chassis rails and bottom of the sills or back street garages do bodge jobs to get a car through one MOT. I am used to restoring older cars and fabricating and welding panels to suit but if you're not I would seek advice. Looking at that one photo of yours I would say that both flanges want cutting out and replacing with new metal but your main problem will be forward of that where the inner sill meets the chassis rail and the outer sill..... Good luck!
Barry

Yeah the part where the sill meets the chassis isn't all that great either. Would the fix for that be to replace the bottom of the sill? This isn't the best photo but it kind of shows the damage.

 

[tuonokid]

Yes, I'm just on with repairing that panel now and mine is in good condition because of the low mileage. On the inside of the sill (where the handbrake cable is bolted in)it was really rusty but hadn't gone through but wasn't worth repainting so I've ground it out and then the return from the inner wheel arch was rusty as well so that's been taken out. Tomorrow I'm going to de-rust the bottom flange of the sill and if that's got rot that will be coming out as well. I've taken photos of all this and, hopefully, with my sons help I will be uploading them soon.
To Jonny P. I've heard that about Fertan products as well in fact one of the paint sellers at Rufforth told me that Fertan panel wax was one of the products that Ziebart used in rust protection (wonder if Ziebart's still going?)