Treating/preventing rust...

[Shimmyhill]

The arches on my car are ok no idea if they were done before i got the car but in last few years have not bubbled etc, because of this i am wanting to do what i can to maintain this.

Am i right in thinking a good idea would be to take the arch liners out, clean out any dirt thats collected there and treat them with some bolt hammer hydrate 80 (for any rust thats started) and then coat with the dynax ub??

Other areas where i do have some rust bubbling are on the front wings from stone chips and the area behind the front doors on the curved bit up from the sill - both caused by stone chips i assume.. I am looking to have these areas fixed, any ideas on rough guide on price - i presume they will strip paint back, clean up and then spray/blend - as far as i can see the metal is good and rust is surface??

Having had that done i assume fitting some front mud flaps would help it not come back?

The paint in general on my car is pretty decent, there are some scuffs/chips etc and some pretty poor touchups but until you get close it all looks good so i want to keep it this way - the underneath is in decent condition I'm told and i will be having a good look at this to see if i need to do any preventative work over the spring/summer.

 

[YOG]

The arches on my car are ok no idea if they were done before i got the car but in last few years have not bubbled etc, because of this i am wanting to do what i can to maintain this.
Am i right in thinking a good idea would be to take the arch liners out, clean out any dirt thats collected there and treat them with some bolt hammer hydrate 80 (for any rust thats started) and then coat with the dynax ub??

I assume you are talking about the rear arches?
You'll be wasting your time just treating under the wheel arch, as rust mainly comes through from the inside. Have a read of my post on Puma People, as to what I treated on mine. It's also worth treating the sill cavities:
http://www.pumapeople.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=97645&st=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[Shimmyhill]

Thanks YOG, i will have a good look through - is the interior easy enough to take out to get access - i had ordered some bilt hamber stuff so will now get some S50 and attack the sills also!

 

[Kidders]

The rust appears to start from a combination of factors, the first is the bonded edge of the arch acts like a sponge, holding moisture and blistering the arch by which point its already too late and you need to cut and weld a new arch in for a 100% repair.

The outer edge of the arch where its folded over the inner didnt have any external seam sealer and in its absence its impossible to create a 100% waterproof join , so water creeps through, soaks the inner section with the aforementioned sealant that acts like a sponge and then you end up bubbled arches.

Pure design fault or cost cutting on Fords part, had they used external sealant and properly rust proofed the inner, there wouldnt have been a problem.

I would suggust anyone who owns a Puma with rust free arches (must be a couple) to remove the liners, clean up the arch seam and treat with Hydrate 80, followed by seam sealer and then a wax coating.

 

[YOG]

Have a read of the post "Posted: Thu May 01, 2008 1:44 pm" in this link and it tells you how to remove the rear side trim panels:
http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1455" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I didn't have any rust on the seam where the inner skin meets the inner arch, so only needed to use Bilt Hamber dynax S50. If there had been any suspicion of rust here, I would have made up a spray bottle and extension nozzle to firstly spray hydrate 80 rust converter all along the seam, and after allowing it to dry, overcoated with dynax S50. Either way, you need to cover the wheels/tyres before treating, as it leaks through gaps in the seams.

 

[Shimmyhill]

Cheers, followed that and its easy to get to really isn't it - now i have a stripped out track ready car

Two worrying things, number one there was water under the rear bench on the passenger side - not lots but the seat was damp and a little rust has formed, mainly as there was a saw bit wedged under there that had rusted...

You can see the surface rust on first pic, i will wire brush this and treat with the bolt hammer stuff when it arrives. On the second pic you can see where the rusty saw blade was and where it is wet!

I have a feeling the leak that has got there was caused by this;

Looks like the seal has been pinched and split, there was water around the area that i assume has run under seat - does this around right and can i get a new boot seal from Ford?

Onto the inner parts of wheel arch, they don't look to bad but some rust, again will treat with the Bilt Hamber stuff but any idea what all these little black bits are in the well? (both bags of foam in there and sealed)

All in all I'm pretty pleased with my efforts, until the Puma i have never had any inclination to mess with cars but then i guess i have never 'liked' my others!! This is a keeper for me so anything done now will help in the future when maybe it will be a track toy only!

 

[Kidders]

Looks like plastic swarf.. does it have aftermarket speakers?

 

[ScubaSteve]

inner arches look very good indeed

 

[Shimmyhill]

Looks like plastic swarf.. does it have aftermarket speakers?

Poss, has 6x9's by the looks of it - i have that box out at mo so will open it up and see whats in there - what are the stock speakers??

 

[Shimmyhill]

inner arches look very good indeed

I was relived! There is a little rust further up i think, will try and get a better pic tomms but ran out of daylight - had to go get some petrol and its pretty noisy with all the seats etc out, quite surprising how much they dampen the noise!

 

[Kidders]

Looks like plastic swarf.. does it have aftermarket speakers?

Poss, has 6x9's by the looks of it - i have that box out at mo so will open it up and see whats in there - what are the stock speakers??

5x7's are stock I believe.

If the car is a keeper, but shows signs of blistering externally, leave any wax treatment for now and get the arches lined up for proper repair by cutting out and welding. The wax is very flammable and messy, big fire hazard.

You could put Hydrate 80 into a trigger and spray into the cavity which should stop it from getting any worse and wont pose a fire risk.

 

[Shimmyhill]

Just got the speaker bin out of garage - all std ford stuff so not swarf from cutting out new speakers! With the swarf, I'm guessing what ever it is it shouldn't be there so i can hoover it up ok??

There is no external rust (touches more wood) and very minor dust internally that i could see.

I was wondering how i would get the Hydrate 80 into tricky parts, i assume paint it on where you can - a normal bottle spray thing going to be ok for areas you can't easily get to??

 

[Kidders]

Yep just hoover it, if it was metal it would of gone rusty by now.

Dynax S50 is probably your best bet as it will halt any signs of corrosion and protect, it comes with a long spraying lance attached to the aerosol if needed, get the can nice and warm and spray away.

Wish my arches were savable, drivers side needs doing properly but for now i've glassfibred it up, not looking too bad now.

 

[Shimmyhill]

Its defi plastic or rubber - been out and got a couple more pics...

You can see where the rust has started on this one above.

And on this one it looks like whatever this stuff is it was put there? Maybe a preventative measure by someone, there is quite a lot of the stuff so any ideas what it is welcome!!!

 

[Shimmyhill]

Yep just hoover it, if it was metal it would of gone rusty by now.

Dynax S50 is probably your best bet as it will halt any signs of corrosion and protect, it comes with a long spraying lance attached to the aerosol if needed, get the can nice and warm and spray away.

Wish my arches were savable, drivers side needs doing properly but for now i've glassfibred it up, not looking too bad now.

Cheers, any idea of retail places i could get the S50 - i have ordered the other stuff online so will ask to add it to order but a local place would be handy - I'm in Norwich btw

 

[Kidders]

Dont think you will find a local supplier tbh, could try Brown Brothers if you want a cavity wax to keep you going but best to wait. What area of Norwich are you in?

 

[Shimmyhill]

Costessey mostly!

 

[Kidders]

Costessey mostly!

Round the corner from me then :lol:

 

[YOG]

Someones been scraping off the sound-proofing/anti-drumming panels:

Rear Arch 04

• YOG
• Jan 26, 2011

 

[Shimmyhill]

Costessey mostly!

Round the corner from me then :lol:

Do you work on cars, you sound quite mechanic like and always looking for local garages etc?

Someones been scraping off the sound-proofing/anti-drumming panels:

Rear Arch 04

• YOG
• Jan 26, 2011

Ok that could be it, the sound deadening (insulation like material) is still there but that black bit around it is not there - well certainly not as much as in your pic.

Someone has obv been there, i wonder why?