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I will see about the IAT, cant see why i could not get a temp guage on it...would be a good idea...will get one...once its in the shop we can do all this and get it ready.

understand about the air flow, but the bonnet vents are low at the front and therefore blow air in more than let it out and we have one or two of the pajero coolers spare so if it works it may get a proper one fitted eventually at the front but will see how this goes first...

there is room for a small long one on top or a short stubby one lower down...will let you see photos once done...
 
Yeah, id really like to see if you can get IAT chart, because we can get a good indication of relationship between IAT and power, so could probably make an estimate of required temp for required power! I know a guy that had a really crappy intercooler fitted, and from changing JUST ther intercooler, no remap, or boost increase, he went from about 200 bhp to 240bhp. This was when i did my green puma, he was at the rolling rd with me, and i used to beat him like he werent even trying, but as soon as he changed the cooler, it was a lot closer (i still beat him, but it wasnt so easy)!!! 40bhp is a massive difference, i dont know if his ECU was retarding the ignition because of the really high IAT's, or holding back the power because they were too high, but 40bhp for just increasing the flow capacity and efficiency of your intercooler shows how important it is!
 
it is massively important, cooling the charge air will improve the air density massively, I suppose I have the knowledge somewhere in the back of my mind to work it out out, still have my uni books somewhere, will see if I can get a calculation...but in essence the cooler air means greater mass, I think its the square rule reversed, but will check...but the cooler air also helps keep the head cool, or within its operating temperature and negates the need for water injection...so it has to help massively...

are you using std injectors...if so I will see at what point they start to fall behind, this may give us an indication of the size...
 
Yes, I'm still using standard injectors, but I've increased fuel pressure to just over 3bar. But if you look at my rolling rd graph, you can see that it's not as rich high up in the RPM as it should be. The problem is that I don't know if that is due to the injectors maxing out, or the map on the ecu just opening the injectors to a parameter on the ecu. You can get an idea from that, but I wouldn't take that as granted. Also, I find a lot of these injector size calculators to be inaccurate, they under estimate the injectors. I have 440cc injectors, and according to some of the calculators I've used, at 80% duty cycle they are only good for around 280bhp, but I know cars running 330bhp on 80% duty cycle with the same size injectors, and they are fine. I'd say the puma injectors are good for about 200bhp, I think a calculator would put the size at around 300cc for that sort of power, but I don't think they are that big! I'd guestimate them to be around 250-275cc max, but that's just a guess!
 
ah okay, i would suspect that once i get up a bit higher i will be needding more fuel pressure and greater flow...all talk at the moment, so much work on, it goes in once the nitrous puma comes out,,,no sign of my tool yet...
 
Its probably because its near christmas, post tends to take longer at Christmas.

It might be all talk at the moment, but the more information you get now, the better prapared you should be when you come to do the work!
 
agree, will get the thing mot's and back on road asap and then dynod as is, then its play time...

list as it goes...

fit air temp sensors
fit pajero intercooler for now and see how that improves the power
fit bigger or better placed intercooler if the performance uplift is good with the pajero intercooler or leav it alone if it is really good.
try to increase boost from exisiting turbo.
play with the fuelling by fitting omex controller...

just thinking I should have a go at building one of these with the throttle bodies off a bike...plenty about...combined with a nice aggressive cam I can see 220 bhp plus coming easy...

Nitrous puma will get the 30 mm back wheel spacers and my new track day toy bought from richard off here is getting the 20 mm spacers plus some new arch work...
I now need another engine as one of the lads has ruined pumabird three by running it out of oil...and big ends gone...so think i will get a nice red puma and refit it with all the parts of this one and make a nice looking car again...i liked that car...suspension too hard mind...
 
Have you ever seen to old pulsar gtir inlet plenum with throttle bodies? I considered using it, its a very efficient plenum, might be worth a look if you dont mind a bit of fabricating! Somebody fitted one into a caterham with a supercharged duratec engine in, and it ran really nice, better then some of the cosworth plenums! Nissan did years of research on them, runner size and flow design ect. That would be a good way to upgrade your injectors too, the injectors are in the runners, so you could just blank off the ones in the puma head. They are better placed in the runners for turbo, it gives the fuel and air a chance to mix better, its not so good for fuel economy, but i get the feeling you arent building these cars for fuel economy!!! :lol:

Or if you want to be really clever, you could wire up 2 sets of injectors, the smaller puma ones for normal driving, and perfect idle, then an extra set to increase the fuelling on boost!!
 
fun idea, simple is the plan for the std turbo puma...for frp turbo we will see...
 
okay remaking a set of lower front suspension arms. if anyone wants any let me know. I can do them for 120 quid using new ford parts. I think this is better than buying new...plus if anyone wants one a tad longer I can do this too...i am going to do this to my track puma, it will be at least 1 inch wider on the front track and the rear will either be adapted using the std arn with increased width by 2 inches or we may build a whole new suspension if we could get the measurements for the rally puma models...however I assume the rally cars want a longer travel hence the need for the independant suspension, not really needed on the track car so likely she will stay as is..but be a tad wider and may also be just a tad longer too, want to increase the wheel base by approximately 2 inches, not yet sure how easy that will be but cant see it being too difficult, could lengthen the swing arms or move the mounting points...all to be considered...

ooh so many options but the easiest path is likely to be taken as i dont have all the time or staff in the world to complete it...
 
Independent suspension is not just for cars that need more travel, it helps the car handle better on bends. When all the weight is shifted to one side on a tight bend when pushing the car to its limit, most cars with a rear beam/axle lifts the back inner wheel completely off the ground. That means you only have 1 wheel for grip on the rear. With independent rear suspension, both wheels are more likely to stay on the ground, so more grip. Thats the most extreme conditions, but even on a not so sharp bend, there will always be more weight on the rear inside wheel on an independent rear set up then on a beam axle. For your track puma, it would be most benificial.

Any idea if you could make adjustable camber wishbones? Might be a little interest, because the standard camber is udjusted when you lower the car. It would save me some time if you can make them, im goint to do my car like this!!! :lol:
GolfCamber.jpg

:shock:
 
if i made the arms a quarter inch longer you would certainly get this effect on the front. but camber is really a sensitive issue on front wheel drive. to get teh camber castor and trail just right to ensure good handling road holding and steering is a fine balance that i DO NOT KNOW WHAT IS BEST...

YES understand re the fixed beam but isnt the beam on the puma acting as a torsion bar and anti roll bar too...not really looked into it yet but will do...i really want to play with all of this...
 
Yeah, it would need a seperate anti roll bar fixing somehow, but i dont think that would be too hard, youd just need to make a bracket to fix it onto the chassis, and then some drop links. I suppose it all depends if its worth the hassle, and what gain youd actually get from it!

I was only kidding by the way about the camber, NO WAY would i ever do something that daft to any car i owned, but with lowering, i would be interested in some with a little adjustment though.

Make sure you keep us posted on any progress you have with these, you can be the ford puma suspension research team!!
 
yes I have to collect another std puma next week, another engine and a few other items...i will have three boxes now ready to trash on track...am more and more keen on getting the rear of the car as low as can be achieved using the std arms. the front will have to be adapted as a work in progress...need another frp box next though...now have three LSD's and will have them fitted in the next few days once the 5th gear tool arrives...
 
damn and blast, my newly engined pumaspeed has failed again, think its the oil pump, I am wondering if Dave has used the wrong oil in the engine....
 
Is it a new engine or are there new components like piston rings in it? Some things have to bed in and heat strengthen with hot and cold cycles before you can thrash them!!
 
no its just a 60k miles one out of an old car...am well annoyed..willt ake it out next week and sort it out...annoyed immensley...it has to be the oil we have been using...
 
chris burbeck has told me the engines are very very susceptible to heavy use before being warm...I need to let them warm up more before I drive them hard.....will certainly do that from now on....I usually do with high performance cars but never thought of the puams as high performance...stupid me...
 
had a crazy event last night, car dropped its engine on the right end side, there were only two bolts holding it in position, instead of three, i assume the other two had loosened over time and had moved more than they should until bang they broke completely and droped the engine onto the chassis...being fixed now but what a pain...may need to strip the box and fit it into a new casing...
 
Wow, did that happen while accelerating?? Did you damage the driveshafts at all, or bend any of the pulleys on the other side?? I hope the there werent too much damage.
 

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