W347 - Developments
- Thread starter grayfox
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unbelievable! I can't believe this happened! This is the biggest setback during this project so far, plus I went with the more expensive company, already done a 4 hour round trip to get there and with the cost of the spare wheel and work and the petrol money I'm down a lot of money and have a bit of scrap metal to show for it.
Why it wasn't mention is quite beyond me I'm really dissapointed by this and will be calling to see what they have to say when they open at 8:30 this morning.
Anyone think I'll get refunded anything more than the price of the work, given it's ruined?
Why it wasn't mention is quite beyond me I'm really dissapointed by this and will be calling to see what they have to say when they open at 8:30 this morning.
Anyone think I'll get refunded anything more than the price of the work, given it's ruined?
PumaNoob
New member
Hey mate, it's not the end of the world them machining the pick-ups out, but it is a major cock up on their part, and its going to take some fabrication. Luckily the 36-1 pattern is very popular with megasquirt enthusiasts so there are a few options. Ill have a look when I wake up at some dimensions, but my first and the cheapest option would be to use a fiesta ST150/mondeo mk3 crank pulley as I am using. That has the 36-1 pattern on the back, so it would just be a case of mounting the crank position sensor 90 degrees after the missing tooth when the engine is at TDC. Sounds a little daunting but really nothing to worry about.
If you don't want to go down that route, then if you look on eBay or go to extraEFI.co.uk, you can pick a 36-1 trigger wheel up that will mount on your crank pulley. failing that, you would have to get the pattern machined back into the flywheel and it would have to be VERY accurate as there's no adjustment in the puma crank sensor, so. When the engine is at TDC, the missing tooth must be exactly 90 degrees after the sensor, the sensor must pick up the missing tooth signal exactly 90 degrees before TDC.. The proximity to the trigger pattern is also quite critical, so to get it working as it should, you would have to add to it.
A lot of companies like fedanza in USA make the trigger part seperately that would need to be fixed to the back of the wheel, but. It would need to be put on very precisely or it will throw the balance off.
If you don't want to go down that route, then if you look on eBay or go to extraEFI.co.uk, you can pick a 36-1 trigger wheel up that will mount on your crank pulley. failing that, you would have to get the pattern machined back into the flywheel and it would have to be VERY accurate as there's no adjustment in the puma crank sensor, so. When the engine is at TDC, the missing tooth must be exactly 90 degrees after the sensor, the sensor must pick up the missing tooth signal exactly 90 degrees before TDC.. The proximity to the trigger pattern is also quite critical, so to get it working as it should, you would have to add to it.
A lot of companies like fedanza in USA make the trigger part seperately that would need to be fixed to the back of the wheel, but. It would need to be put on very precisely or it will throw the balance off.
PumaNoob
New member
Yes, the flywheel may be beyond economical repair to put a trigger back on it, but loads of engines don't have the crank position sensor on the fly, you just need to think outside the box a little if you do want to continue with this flywheel.
I've checked the pulley diameter on the duratec and its bigger then the puma pulley (132mm vs 120mm). Ideally you'd want a smaller under drive pulley for a race car not a bigger one. So you'd have to use a duratec under stove pulley (won't be cheap), or a custom fabricated pulley. I could do the pulley for you for cost of parts, and then you'd just need a duratec crank sensor and a mounting bracket. If your not into making that kind of stuff, let me know and I'll get you a price for the lot as a bolt on kit, you'd just need to extend your crank sensor wiring.
I think you'll be better to to talk to them and see if they can sort something out, I personally wouldn't reccoment making the stock wheel lighter anyway, compared to a lot of flywheels it's already very light, there isn't much that can be taken from it without compromising structural integrity. If you can get a refund, it might be an idea to just do that and look at the alternatives, I know your already out of pocket, but sometimes its best to cut your losses instead of chasing the loss and throwing more money at it.
I've checked the pulley diameter on the duratec and its bigger then the puma pulley (132mm vs 120mm). Ideally you'd want a smaller under drive pulley for a race car not a bigger one. So you'd have to use a duratec under stove pulley (won't be cheap), or a custom fabricated pulley. I could do the pulley for you for cost of parts, and then you'd just need a duratec crank sensor and a mounting bracket. If your not into making that kind of stuff, let me know and I'll get you a price for the lot as a bolt on kit, you'd just need to extend your crank sensor wiring.
I think you'll be better to to talk to them and see if they can sort something out, I personally wouldn't reccoment making the stock wheel lighter anyway, compared to a lot of flywheels it's already very light, there isn't much that can be taken from it without compromising structural integrity. If you can get a refund, it might be an idea to just do that and look at the alternatives, I know your already out of pocket, but sometimes its best to cut your losses instead of chasing the loss and throwing more money at it.
PumaJay
Active member
thats quite a c**k up.
who was the company that did it? was it a motorsport company or just a machine shop? if its the latter they cant really be blamed for taking the pots out, can they? if you take something to someone and ask them to make it as light as possible but they dont know the first thing out the part there working on can you really blame them?
it would have exploded at somepoint anyway, seen it happen a few times on lightened cast flywheels.
who was the company that did it? was it a motorsport company or just a machine shop? if its the latter they cant really be blamed for taking the pots out, can they? if you take something to someone and ask them to make it as light as possible but they dont know the first thing out the part there working on can you really blame them?
it would have exploded at somepoint anyway, seen it happen a few times on lightened cast flywheels.
Where the mix up happened was I said I wanted it skimmed firstly and most importantly and then if any weight can be reduced without impacting the car’s reliability then great, I explained the car it’s going on that I didn’t want idle issues or it weakened, the guy who did it therefore took the weight from the pots where it would have the most effect without weakening its strength, and just imagined I had some custom set-up whereby I didn’t need them! - it was an engine specialist who have 50 years experience with race cars and Italian classic motorbike engines.
Got a refund. Not bothered particularly if one place is cheaper than another as I was in the mind that u get what u pay for with this kind if thing as its all labour time and refining, the job they did was brilliant, just not suitable. After much discussion I'm not fitting the lightened wheel now and will stick with the original, just wasn't meant to be I guess..
PumaNoob
New member
Good man, its difficult to let go of something you had your mind set on, but its probably for the best. But now you are faced with another issue, are you going to fit the focus clutch to your flywheel without skimming??
I've been juggling that issue myself.. I'm thinking yes, I know it's not the best way to go but hoping the flywheel isn't to bad, no way to tell till it's out I guess.
After my little let down I had a little smile when I found a samco induction waiting for me when I got home from a kind member on here.
After my little let down I had a little smile when I found a samco induction waiting for me when I got home from a kind member on here.
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