Budget Puma TURBO Project!!

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PumaNoob said:
What on earth has gone wrong with your car now? If its fuelling, id first look at the lambda, as yours was overfuelling for quite a while, so the new lambda you brought could be coated in soot.

lol good possibility. the added weight to the car has made it more apparent.

still popping a lot at low RPM and exhaust is covered again.

possibly FPR or injectors? might be worth getting a new fuel rail setup.
 
I've got that 35k engine you can try the rail off mate, but I'd say lambda. Is is sort of like a mild version of when you hit the rev limiter, sort of like a restrictor? If the scan gauge isn't picking it up, & it sounds like that, I'd be pretty confident it's the lambda, as it's the lambda that picks up when it's rich.
 
who knows man lol. cba to do owt to it atm lol.

need my clutch doing asap so if u get a moment ring me and we could have a look at it then.
 
Ok mate, im busy this week, but ill have to see what days ive got off next week!

The FMU definately has to come off, it just overfuells and looses alot of power with it set to its minimum settings! The only other option would be to use it on its own without the std regulator, but i think ill just go back to powerboost valve or std regulator for now. A few things im going to look at doing today:

Put a 1 way check valve in the vacum sensor/fuel vapour pipe, as i could be pressurising the fuel tank, and loosing boost with it open
Set the exhaust cam back to FRP settings. The reason for this, is valve overlap. Ive lost power due to the back pressure the turbo is creating. While the inlet and exhaust valves are open at the same time, the 5psi of boost, is counteracted by about 10psi of back pressure, resulting in the cylinders filling only half with new air, and half with exhaust gas, which is obviusly going to loose me power. With the FRP settings, the exhaust valves close 4 degrees earlier, so they will be closed before the inlet valves open, filling the cylinders with more clean cold air! Thats my theory, im going to try it and give it a go, i found an FRP'd Fiesta Zetec S that was very close to my car on performance, so he can be my indicator of what mods work and what dosent!
 
Fitted this 1 way valve i got free from the scrappers, and changed my cam settings to FRP spec, and the problem seems to have gone away!! :thumbs:
Just a quick pic of the one way valve ive fitted
12072010318.jpg


Tried it just at 7psi, and it shifts, im even spinning these new 17s in 2nd gear now! Im going to try 10psi later or tommorow!
while out playing, i found another issue :-( The fuel pump is on its way out! This may be due to the stresses the FMU put on it while i was out last night, so i think for what its worth, a Walbro 255lph pump is in order, its £75 for a standard pump and euro car spares, and about £50 for a pump off fleebay, so i might aswell go for a walbro pump for £75, as it should be more suited to what i want!
 
Yeah, its started making weird noises! When you turn the ignition to the on position, it makes a sorry sounding priming noise! The fuel pressure is still fine, but its making a noise every time i go from vac to zero manifold pressure, so im sure it wont last much longer!!

Whats the crack with changing the fuel pump, is it easy enough to do, or is there anything i should take into consideration before i do it? I know ill have to syphon out the fuel inside, but other then that, and getting high off the fumes, is i cant imagine it to be too difficult?
 
no its easy enough.

just 4 bolts and it will drop down. taking off all the pipes of course

make sure you stick something underneath and dont use the jack on it.

pref get a mate to help.

I got very sick after doing it without a mask so be careful man
 
I assume the reason your saying dont use a jack is so you dont dent the bottom, and have your fuel reading all over the place???
And what if i aint got no mates??? :( Lol
Cheers for the info mate, ive emailed a company not far from me, hopefully if they get back to me, ill go and get the pump tommorow, and be up and running for next weekend!
 
lol if u need a hand let me know u loner :p

and yeah so u dont ruin ur fuel reading and dent ur tank.
 
Yeah its not too bad of a job! Though if your tank has got a lot of fuel in it, then it will be heavy!!! I used wood blocks to take the weight if your only replacing the pump, you can just do it under the car. Just undo the twist locking ring then take out your old pump then, put your new one in, then tighten the locking ring back up. Job done.
Though you may want to get some new bolts for the tank as there rubbish and if rusted, they will tear off the locking tabs off the tanks.
 
No mate, theres not alot of fuel in the tank, i only put a little in when i was out sunday, so ill probarbly only have a few litres in it. I think that will be easier, if i can get the car high enough, ill just drop the tank enough to get the pump and sender out, then swap them over. Ill get some new bolts just incase, thanks for the heads up BlackKnight! If back pressure was the issue stopping me from running more boost, with your S/C setup, you could run a bit more! My boost gauge was slightly out, the onboard map sensor on the megajolt would be a more trusted gauge, and that says i was only running 4/5 psi when i run that 14.9 1/4mile, with std cams and ecu, so if you were to run 7psi with the 4-2-1, just think how quick that would be! Hopefully more 1/4mile vids comming soon!
 
There will be more in there than u think im sure. You should be fine if you get the back of the car in the air.
Thats a hell of good time for 4/5 psi im impressed. Thats some good going! My supercharger wont have the instant power like a T25 turbo, but it will have a smooth delivery and should have loads more blow up the top of the rev range which should make losing grip less of a problem.
 
There was a turbo puma on here done by owen developments that was about 15.6 sec 1/4, and that was with an LSD, so twice the traction as me, running 13psi of boost, and 182bhp, so im quite pleased with mine, but i think i can break the 14 sec barrier!! I now have the FRP cams, megajolt ECU, and can run more boost, so im certainly hoping i can take a little off that 14.9. I think a FRP would beat me off the start due to my lower compression and turbo lag, but id soon catch it within a few secs, but youll have that head start, then have the blower to keep going, so id probly start to catch you up, then when you got past about 4500rpm, youd loose me. Either way it will be interesting, as your power curve will be totally different to mine. do you have anything in mind for after the supercharged puma is finished? Im thinking Supercharged blacktop, or if funds allow, supercharged ST170 in a puma!
 
the only problem with ST170 and blacktops they will be a lot heavier engine i think and you wud have to tunnel the shell to fit the gearbox. tho i reckon a sweet ST150 engine them duratec's can handle some power, perfect for big power conversions.
 
Yeah, the weight was an issue i was lookng at, but the gearbox might not be an issue, i could be wrong on this, but i think you can put a 1.8 flywheel on the 2.0 or ST170 engine, and then the IB5 would mount up to it! That way you would only need to make an engine side mount! Obviusly for big power, youd need to change the internals of the box, but then for big power, youd probarbly change the internals of the 2.0 box (MTX i think). Im sure someone with more knowlege will correct me if im wrong. Also the fiesta diesel duratorque box mounts up to the 2.0 engine, and has identical mounts as the Puma. The only thing im unsure about is if the blacktop and silvertop have different gearbox sides, if they do, then the options above are probarbly for the silvertop engine. I did look into the V6 st220 engine, but just a brief look at 1 (the mazda version), theres no way i could get that thing into a puma, its a monster, but imagine it with a big supercharger on the top like the american muscle cars have!! 400 horses anyone??!!!! :shock:

The ST150 might be the best option i think, and probarbly the easiest option!! That engine isnt pushing out alot of power for a 2.0, i think your right, you could squeeze about 300 horses out of it with not too much forced induction work! But then some might say why mess around putting it in a puma, why not just get an ST150??
 
tuning parts are easily available for the ST150 engine. so 300bhp is a possibility indeed.
the puma is a better looking car in my opinion.
ST150 as still quite expense to buy tho.
Have you seen the Puma with a Mrk 1 FOCUS RS engine in it???? on pumabuild
 
I didnt actually see the car with the engine in, but i got a set of cams from Alan, and saw the car after the engine had been taken out, he was putting it back to standard FRP spec. I think they said it was around 360 bhp or something ridicolous like that. Now that would have been worth a go!! I saw a few bits, the exhaust manifold went sidewards, and the turbo was where the battery used to be! I think he sold the engine on ebay, but it probarbly went back into another focus. I was speaking to Clarkie about it sunday, he wanted it, but Alan said it was a nightmare to fit, and wouldnt fit it. I bet Warrens Puma Cossie wont be far off that, although Alans was front wheel drive, so putting that power down wouldnt have been easy, Warrens is 4 wheel drive, so should be an awesome machine!
 
Mate, if I could weld, that would be awesome, a puma drift car!!!
Ok, BIG update, I was out in my car, and the power feels alot, so much so that when I thought the wheels were spinning, it was intact the clutch! I did wonder when I'd max out the clutch, it's organic, but it's not made for that kind of power, so looks like it's time for a paddle clutch! And while I'm at it, I might aswell get the flywheel lightened and balanced, and get my gearbox rebuild with stronger internals, or at leaste better gearing!
Anybody out there know how to Edit the title of a project, as "Budget" seems to have gone out the window now!!
Car might be off the rd for a bit as I'm working alot, but I'm sure on my spare days I'll get bits done on it!
 
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