FRP Duratec Turbo Project!

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Basically it bolts to the damper lower bolt. Its a bit of angle iron with 2 holes in it. Needs a 6" bit of angle iron instead with a second retaining bolt or strap so the angle iron cant twist. Then you can move the anti-roll link bar further rearwards so its straight and vertical rather than at an angle as standard.

In handling terms, it reduces the rear roll a lot which means if youre on coilovers you wont need such stiff springs or settings on the rear to stop roll and hence you will have a bit more bump compliance at the wheels and hence more grip. YOu can easily go too stiff on the rear which makes nice flat cornering but any bumps or roughness gives a skittish rear end.
 
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As you can see, longer angle and one extra fixing so angle cant twist, then you could get the link vertical.
 
I'm more then happy to discuss these things here as its helpful in the development of my car, so its not hijacking lol.

Warren, are you running a standard rear beam with your set up?

The only way I could describe the front lower strut is as Jay says, everything just feels tighter. The same way I can only describe the poly engine mounts as "the engine just feels more connected, like its a part of the chassis"

Touching back to something Wild E Coyote said, the traction control works by just applying one of the front brakes, it got me thinking. Ive always known it works like that, but when i read that, it triggered something in my head! When I said earlier that I can feel the diff transferring power from one side to the other, I wonder if that could be the traction control trying to cope with the torque and struggling for grip? Just a thought I had.
 
The only drawback to the front brace is the complete disappearance of ground clearance, as I found out when unable to drive up my own drive.
 
PumaNoob said:
Warren, are you running a standard rear beam with your set up?

Touching back to something Wild E Coyote said, the traction control works by just applying one of the front brakes, it got me thinking. Ive always known it works like that, but when i read that, it triggered something in my head! When I said earlier that I can feel the diff transferring power from one side to the other, I wonder if that could be the traction control trying to cope with the torque and struggling for grip? Just a thought I had.
totally standard rear beam which on the sportkas is fractionally stiffer than pumas (like the fez zetec s, they robbed all the best bits from the parts bin on the car). Also standard dampers which are halfway between pumas and frp's.

Pull the fuse on the abs to see if it makes a difference.
 
Oh ok, I thought we were talking about your 4wd puma not the KA! Ok I'm with you now!

Yeah I'll try unplugging it and see if it makes a difference, I don't think it will because I've only noticed it since fittin the quaife diff, but then I only fitted the quaife diff when I had more power so it's always worth a shot!

& yes TGplayer1, ground clearence is an issue with a lowered puma and a strut brace!! I have to plan my journeys around speed bumps now!!
 
PumaNoob said:
Touching back to something Wild E Coyote said, the traction control works by just applying one of the front brakes, it got me thinking. Ive always known it works like that, but when i read that, it triggered something in my head! When I said earlier that I can feel the diff transferring power from one side to the other, I wonder if that could be the traction control trying to cope with the torque and struggling for grip? Just a thought I had.

Don't think so, mate. TC works only below 40 kph or something similar. And don't think it is that smart to apply brakes individually. This was the first ever TC on a Ford, IIRC. I think they would play it safe and just make it work and then collect expiriences before going to the higher level.
What you feel is the diff desperately trying to cope with your monster engine :grin:
 
warrenpenalver said:
totally standard rear beam which on the sportkas is fractionally stiffer than pumas (like the fez zetec s, they robbed all the best bits from the parts bin on the car). Also standard dampers which are halfway between pumas and frp's.

What diameter is your antiroll bar? I can see few of them floating around. Even thought might have a go at producing one my self…?
 
I have had the TC kick in on mine a few times and it is almost exactly the same noise as when the ABS kicks in (considering it's all the same system I suppose it would do,) you get an almighty crunchy buzz from the front end.
 
HmerX said:
So after reading this thread, I must admit that it is the most amazing Puma I've ever seen ... a lot of respect :)

Thanks mate, I appreciate the nice comments! :grin:

I only have a small update but it's a new development that I've made that may be useful for other people running increased power.



Sorry it's not the best picture, but there's really not a lot to see!

It's a switch that connects an earth input to my ECU when in 1st and second gear. It's nothing exotic, just a switch off a spare handbrake I have attached to simple bracket. I have then written a custom file to my ECU that adjusts the tune when it sees the earth from the switch. It's not a completely new map as there isn't space to write a complete new map, but it allows me to reduce boost in those 2 gears as low as 10psi (spring pressure) with an independent boost map (it's 25psi in other gears). It also allows me to have a less aggressive torque curve in those 2 gears and retard ignition timing to hopefully allow me to get better traction.
 
Well I only tried it last night, and it was 2 degrees with moisture on the rd so quite slippery, but it was certainly more manageable. In those conditions 1st and second were useless if trying to accelerate quickly, but now at least I can pull away faster in second, 1st is still useless :lol: I really need to try it in the dry to get a full effect. In this weather I'd usually have the low power map anyway but really need a warmer dry day to see how effective it is.
 
madhillbilly17 said:
your far to clever Errol,what a great idea nice work mate :cool:

Hmm, I'm not sure about that, after doing this mod, I put all the carpets back down, and checked that All was working with a satisfied smile on my face. Then went to start the car and couldn't find my keys anywhere!! :eek: Then noticed a key shaped lump under the carpet :oops: had to take the carpets up again on the drivers side to get them out. When your feeling smug about something you've done, doing something stupid always brings you back down to earth :lol:

Wild E. Coyote said:
PumaNoob said:
now at least I can pull away faster in second, 1st is still useless :lol:

As I told you already, the time has come for a 4WD on your car, mate! :cool:

Yeah I know mate, but it's just time and effort that I don't have anymore. 4WD is so much change, it's taken me weeks to get this small switch done, it would take me literally years to do a 4wd set up! But I'd absolutely love a 4wd puma. Maybe if I can get a lock up to work out of I'll make one some day
 
ha ha happens to us all maybe were getting old and forgetful,i fitted a new face plate and head unit in a ka the other day,job done turned it on,doh forgot to plug the aerial back in :oops:

4wd evo puma would be awesome :)
 
Me and Mac have this dispute often, he thinks a Subaru powered puma would be better, but for me Evo powered all the way, hands down!!! :lol: :lol:
 
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