Jade

[tuonokid]

Probably not. A lack of pressure does cause water to boil at a lower pressure (you can't make a good cup of tea at the top of Everest as the water boils at too low a temp). I would imagine the boiling is either the rest of the water in the cooling system overheating as it cannot circulate properly or combustion gases getting into the cooling system.
Barry

 

[tuonokid]

Sos I butted in then

 

[lozzy75]

just to put my penneth in,
yes you have a leak in the rad, that is going to stop your coolant system pressurising properly(along with the bodged header tank), guy who had previous may have put in radiator sealant, did you see orange sediment in the coolant hoses ?
also did you bleed properly ? there are bleed screws on the pipes that lead into your heater matrix and are usually located near the bulkhead, behind the engine ?
properly bleeding a system can be a pain in the ass, but even with a leaking radiator you are at a loss, as soon as the coolant starts to cool and contract the leak in the radiator will draw in air, causing more air locks !! :evil:

new rad time mate, don't forget to leave the bleed screws slightly open as you fill the system, this will allow the air to evacuate from the bleed as you fill, once its pissing out with no sign of air close the bleed. another tip from my days in a garage is to leave the coolant cap off when you first start the engine after refilling and bleeding, wait until she gets warm and the thermostat opens and the rest of the air should be either forced out of the bleeds when you open them, or up into the header tank.. job done, look for leaks, make sure the heater is working, open bleeds for one last time when cooled down to make sure all air locks are cleared..
good luck
hope the above helps

 

[Seg]

Hi Lozzy

Thanks for your reply m8. I think there may have been rad sealant in there. some gold glittery looking stuff.

Didnt notice any bleed screws on the pipes that lead to the matrix (after the hcv)

Managed to replace the faulty/damaged header tank for a good one.

So I think the next course of action then is get a new radiator and go from there.

Thanks for your advice. And everyone elses.

I really don't want this to be hgf. I think i've been proper done up like a kipper I think.

Thank you all once again.

 

[lozzy75]

http://workshop-manuals.com/ford/puma_1998_06.1997-12.2001/mechanical_repairs/3_powertrain/303_engine/303-03_engine_cooling/description_and_operation/diagnosis_and_testing/general_procedures/cooling_system_draining_filling_and_bleeding/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
no bleed screws on a puma... my bad...

 

[Seg]

http://workshop-manuals.com/ford/puma_1998_06.1997-12.2001/mechanical_repairs/3_powertrain/303_engine/303-03_engine_cooling/description_and_operation/diagnosis_and_testing/general_procedures/cooling_system_draining_filling_and_bleeding/
no bleed screws on a puma... my bad...

No worries m8. Thought I was missing something else then for a minute, lol

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Simon. This is turning into a massive post now lets hope it ends well. I take it from your E-MAIL you're at Swillington?
I pass through that a lot on the way to the cafe at Sherburn.
Barry

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Simon. This is turning into a massive post now lets hope it ends well. I take it from your E-MAIL you're at Swillington?
I pass through that a lot on the way to the cafe at Sherburn.
Barry

 

[Seg]

Hi Simon. This is turning into a massive post now lets hope it ends well. I take it from your E-MAIL you're at Swillington?
I pass through that a lot on the way to the cafe at Sherburn.
Barry

Hi Barry.

No not swillington m8. I live in Pudsey. That part of the email is my name, lol.

Your not wrong about size of this thread. Through out this thread, I have probably had more cups of tea than there are posts, lol.

I am hoping the new rad and hcv will sort me out. Gonna strip the pipes off my focus at weekend and put them on the puma. Least I know they are OK.

Funny thing is, we didn't mot the focus cos we thought it was gonna cost as much as a cheap run around to get through test. How wrong we could potentially be. lol

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Simon
Wrong assumption from me. I hope it all works out because regardless of the cost it's a bad time of year to be working outside. Might be the wrong time to mention it but the Focus can be a good car to strip upgrades from, especially brakes-wise.
Barry

 

[Seg]

So Ive been and picked the new radiator up this morning £40.80. Not bad I think. Just need to wait till I finsh work now to fit it. Fingers crossed along with everything else.

Seg

 

[martinthrapston]

Good price,dont forget coolant,but as i said before just use water for now for testing,and then if all ok change it for coolant

 

[Seg]

Good price,dont forget coolant,but as i said before just use water for now for testing,and then if all ok change it for coolant

Will do mate. Cheers. Need to get done asap as we are expecting snow today.

 

[The Arch Bishop]

Good luck with it - got everything crossed for you!

Does sound like the previous owner kept layering bodges over bodges in an attempt to fix previous bodges! Glad to see you're determined to sort the poor car out. Hopefully it'll end up you having saved another Puma and you'll have a car that you know you've fixed up properly. :grin:

 

[lozzy75]

Good luck with it - got everything crossed for you!

Does sound like the previous owner kept layering bodges over bodges in an attempt to fix previous bodges! Glad to see you're determined to sort the poor car out. Hopefully it'll end up you having saved another Puma and you'll have a car that you know you've fixed up properly. :grin:[/quo :thumbs:

 

[tuonokid]

How're you doing Simon. Hope everything went well tonight.
Barry

 

[spike.]

This is better than Eastenders

 

[evilrob]

This is better than Eastenders

So is being bum raped by a horse. (so I've heard)

 

[spike.]

yes, I'd agree, and take your word for it

 

[Seg]

Hi guys.

Thanks for your kind words. Well here goes.

Went to pick this up today

. £40.80. Northern radiators in Leeds, also in Huddersfield. If anyone needs one check em out. Free next day delivery. Mine is twice as thick as the one I have just taken off. Got it fitted, filled water up and run car for 20 minutes. Had to turn engine off as water started boiling up in header tank again, so I thought I would remove the hcv that I had bought earlier in the week and joined the pipes. Needless to say after it warmed up, my join of the two pipes that goto the hcv started to leak. I was getting a bit frustrated by this time.

At this point, I thought I would put the old hcv back on and try that. After starting car and running for 5 minutes, warm air started coming through the vents. Wahooooo. Went to check the hcv pipes to make sure there were no leaks and I realised I had not connected the power connector to it. After 20 minutes the heaters started blowing cool air, but when I applied some throttle, became warm/hot again. I'm sure I have seen a thread on this issue.

Anyway after 30 minutes, there was still no boiling in the header tank which always happened after about 20 minutes, buzzin I thought. Then low and behold, the radiator fan came on. Never heard it run before. I'm sure you can imagine the shear relief and joy I got from hearing it kick in. Left the car running and about 8/10 minutes later came back on again. YEEEEESSSSSSSSS! Checked the header, no boiling and was sat quite happily at the max mark.

I then turned the engine off and left for 5 minutes while I finished my 7th brew of the night then opened slightly the cap on the header tank, some bubbling could be heard within the engine, then the tank burped. I was absolutely buzzin at this point.

So at 22:10 thought I would pack up for the night. I will put the headlight back on tomorrow and take for a spin.

I would like to say a MASSIVE thank you to everyone that has helped me with these probs.

Can anyone point me in the right direction regarding heater going cool when idle then hot when revving.

Sorry for the long post.

Seg