My Puma 1.7, more than a year on (A works in progress)
- Thread starter tuonokid
- Start date
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tuonokid
Active member
Aye James I have the green Westy to finish and then the blue one's getting ready for a full strip and re-furb plus more power.
Barry
PS Are you still away from tomorrow?
Barry
PS Are you still away from tomorrow?
748
New member
Barry, re the ABS and TC lights...they usually go together.
Have you done any work involving the ABS sensors?
On power up (ignition on), the system will check the sensors and flag up a fault if one is missing or a bad reading.
A badly adjusted one one will not show up until the self test at 12mph.
Annoying thing is with this setup is you have to put everything back together to test drive it, only to find you could still have an ABS fault.
Have you done any work involving the ABS sensors?
On power up (ignition on), the system will check the sensors and flag up a fault if one is missing or a bad reading.
A badly adjusted one one will not show up until the self test at 12mph.
Annoying thing is with this setup is you have to put everything back together to test drive it, only to find you could still have an ABS fault.
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Paul
I was sort of expecting it as I have the full ST170 front and rear brakes and re-used my old drum brake sensors so plan C as I metioned before if the lights don't go out is to buy escort estate sensors which are more suitable for this set up. You never know the lights might go out at 12mph and I might go to the future at 85mph :grin:
Barry
I was sort of expecting it as I have the full ST170 front and rear brakes and re-used my old drum brake sensors so plan C as I metioned before if the lights don't go out is to buy escort estate sensors which are more suitable for this set up. You never know the lights might go out at 12mph and I might go to the future at 85mph :grin:
Barry
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Graeme
Nice to hear from you again and I bet you're keeping yourself busy with all your rally projects and various vehicles. I love the wheels as well and they were a bargain £95 off Fleabay.
Barry
Nice to hear from you again and I bet you're keeping yourself busy with all your rally projects and various vehicles. I love the wheels as well and they were a bargain £95 off Fleabay.
Barry
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Graeme
Congratulations on the son, I have one too and he share's my interests so we have lots of fun times together. I bet there aren't enough hours in a day to get on with all your projects but glad to see you haven't abandoned them. I hope the Avenger hasn't been forgotten about as well.
Barry
Congratulations on the son, I have one too and he share's my interests so we have lots of fun times together. I bet there aren't enough hours in a day to get on with all your projects but glad to see you haven't abandoned them. I hope the Avenger hasn't been forgotten about as well.
Barry
tuonokid said:
No need for escort estate rear ABS sensors. If you have taken down the drums you should have their stub axles lying around. Detach it from the drum base (if it hasn't fallen off already) and clean it a bit. Then bolt it to your ST170 stub axle from the back and that will give you the exact postioning of the sensor. IF you swap the left for right you can drill the hole at the other side of axle; it doesn't matter as long as it is at the right diameter. That way you can reposition your existing sensor and the angled bit won't get in your way if you are using spacers at the back.
If the sensors are at the exact positions, only thing prveneting your ABS from functioning properly will be the gap to the tone rings. It has to be exactly 0,6 mm on BOTH sides, or the ABS will pass self test, but as you slow to a halt it will kick in grinding. Been there, done it!
IIRC, on LH side of the (OS by your standards) the ABS sensor should be moved behind the axle (looking in the direction the car is driving) and then you can use spacer as well.
Escort estate ABS sensor is expensive as h_ll, save that 90 GBP plus for something else!
Hituonokid said:
It's actually one of my girls who has the interest! I haven't even seen the Avenger for months to be honest. It don't need much to get her back on the road. Think she needs a new box as it vibrates in 5th and an interior putting back in. After the 2 puma's are log booked I will get the Avenger back to my workshop and start her. Oh and also been made redundant so at least I have the time now lol
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Graeme
Sorry to hear about your redundancy but sounds like you can fill your time easily. If you're after a type 9 get one quick as kit cars are getting rid of them rapidly.
Barry
Sorry to hear about your redundancy but sounds like you can fill your time easily. If you're after a type 9 get one quick as kit cars are getting rid of them rapidly.
Barry
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Graeme
Do the build threads, it would be great to see what you have to do to Pumas to change them to Rally cars. Lots of choices for the type 9...
Good luck
Barry
Do the build threads, it would be great to see what you have to do to Pumas to change them to Rally cars. Lots of choices for the type 9...
Good luck
Barry
tuonokid
Active member
After working on the Westys for a few weeks I decided to move back on to the Puma. The petrol tank needed treating on it's base as I had scratched the protective coating in places taking it off and putting it back on and I didn't want it going rusty when it went back on the road.
The scratches had clearly gone through to bare metal.
20mins later with half a kitchen roll and half a cup of petrol I ended up with this. I thought at first the tank might have been lightly galvanised but it looks like it was finished with a zinc based paint/primer which came off with the petrol just leaving bare steel.
Half an hour later I'd etch primered the base of the tank ready for further treatment tomorrow
stone chipped
shutzed
Whilst the car was up in the air I waxoiled all the insides of the strengtheners using this. The shutz tin is full of waxoil. That's a full gallon of waxoil I've used on this now and the car stinks inside as I'd done all the sills and doors etc when the interior was out.
Waxoil dripping out of the cavities. Hopefully this should keep corrosion at bay for a few years.
The scratches had clearly gone through to bare metal.
20mins later with half a kitchen roll and half a cup of petrol I ended up with this. I thought at first the tank might have been lightly galvanised but it looks like it was finished with a zinc based paint/primer which came off with the petrol just leaving bare steel.
Half an hour later I'd etch primered the base of the tank ready for further treatment tomorrow
stone chipped
shutzed
Whilst the car was up in the air I waxoiled all the insides of the strengtheners using this. The shutz tin is full of waxoil. That's a full gallon of waxoil I've used on this now and the car stinks inside as I'd done all the sills and doors etc when the interior was out.
Waxoil dripping out of the cavities. Hopefully this should keep corrosion at bay for a few years.
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Martin
Nice to hear from you. The tank really did look like it had been galvanised but as you said it doesn't fit in with Fords policy of encouraging rot
Andrew and I went to have a look at a MK1 Escort for him the other day (1100L). Sadly the description didn't match the price so I walked away but was looking forward to working on something simple again.
Barry
Nice to hear from you. The tank really did look like it had been galvanised but as you said it doesn't fit in with Fords policy of encouraging rot
Andrew and I went to have a look at a MK1 Escort for him the other day (1100L). Sadly the description didn't match the price so I walked away but was looking forward to working on something simple again.
Barry
tuonokid
Active member
Job for today was to heat wrap the middle part of the 4 branch to stop the bulkhead and the plastic column shroud from getting too hot. This Piper system has the bolt holes for the top shields so I'll be using those.
This is the heat wrap along with the stainless steel tie wraps used to hold it in place.
I spent about half an hour trying to wrap the damn thing then gave up on it in the end so I will, eventually, do it with the manifold out of the car as it will be easier and I will be able to make a far neater job of it.
I decided to get the old TY running again instead of working on the Puma. I'd restored this in 2010 and it had done about 2 miles around my garden before it was parked in my garage and left. I'm going to sell it when it's recommisioned to put towards my sons car.
This is the heat wrap along with the stainless steel tie wraps used to hold it in place.
I spent about half an hour trying to wrap the damn thing then gave up on it in the end so I will, eventually, do it with the manifold out of the car as it will be easier and I will be able to make a far neater job of it.
I decided to get the old TY running again instead of working on the Puma. I'd restored this in 2010 and it had done about 2 miles around my garden before it was parked in my garage and left. I'm going to sell it when it's recommisioned to put towards my sons car.
tuonokid
Active member
Fired it up again a couple of times to see if I could get it up to the elusive 12mph to try and get the ABS/TC lights out in my drive but didn't manage it so I think I will buy some Escort estate rear sensors and give them a try. At least I'll be able to bolt them to the rear axle stubs rather than using brackets to push them in.
I'd also been worried about the A/C as I know naff all about that as well so I gave it a try today. The compressor seems to kick in with no fuss and I managed to get a cheap thermometer down to 4.5 deg with holding it over the dash vent. Without the A/C on I struggled to get it under 10 deg and the car steamed up as this:
Within 30-40 secs of the A/C on it became this;
I was fearing the worst for this but I'm really happy it's working now.
I'd also been worried about the A/C as I know naff all about that as well so I gave it a try today. The compressor seems to kick in with no fuss and I managed to get a cheap thermometer down to 4.5 deg with holding it over the dash vent. Without the A/C on I struggled to get it under 10 deg and the car steamed up as this:
Within 30-40 secs of the A/C on it became this;
I was fearing the worst for this but I'm really happy it's working now.
tuonokid said:
I found out it was the easiest option to get just one spare (non functional is OK as well) sensor, dismantle everything and set it in garage on a working table.
When you set it right it will work no problems. I know, it is a hussle to get it all down, but I have got so trained that I can get from functional car to hubs on the table in under 10 minutes :evil:
Few images of the process here: http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=322774#p322774" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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