New Puma, some problems

[tekz]

Hey there,

Just got my first puma and have some teething problems.

I would appreciate some help and bear with me with my explanation, this is my first car.

Firstly I think it needs a new clutch.

When I change into low gears, if I accelerate straight away the car rev's but I don't get any forward motion, it's almost like I have to wait a second or two before I can step on the accelerator. I believe this is called clutch slip? It's also intermittent but the biting point is always at a high level (girlfriend and mum both revved the crap out of it at first when they had a drive, but mum says it might just be the car characteristic). It does drive very happily at high speeds though, zooms along fine once the rev's catch up.

The odd thing is I can start the car in third and fourth from a complete standstill fine if I'm really slow on the clutch.

I just purchased the car and it's done approximately 70k miles. I've gone through the service history and I don't think it's had a clutch replacement yet.

Does this sound like a clutch that needs replacing?

I have two other main problems, they may be related from a few Google searches..

The horn is very quiet and quite pathetic sounding, it's like bob the builders horn, *beep beep* instead of *HONK HONK*. I was driving behind my girlfriend at about 20mph and she couldn't hear it. It's quite useless and quite embarrassing lol, also it's a danger to my driving cos every time I honk it I can't help but laugh my head off for 5 minutes, it's really the funniest horn I've ever heard.

The left indicator does not automatically switch itself off, roughly two thirds of the time I have to manually turn it off. When it fails to switch off automatically it makes a clunky click instead of the normal click, sounds like it's catching and missing.

I have read on Google that the indicator could of been caused by a mechanic incorrectly putting on the steering wheel after an steering alignment, and in the service history it had a steering alignment roughly two years ago.

More concerning is I also read those two issues can be caused by a CIM fault or something? that can be costly to replace.

If anyone could shed some light on these issues, and possibly provide some advice on testing/attempting to repair myself or anything it would be greatly appreciated. Bear in mind that although I'm generally good with mechanical and electrical things I have absolutely no experience with cars.

Will

*Edit* One minor thing that is ennoying me is that the right dipped beam headlight is slightly higher than the other and doesn't move anywhere near as much when I move the knob that changes their height, if I change it from the normal - position upwards from 1 to 4 the uneveness of the lights gets more extreme, could be just the bulb is stuck or something, just thought I'd mention it if it's a common prob or something.

 

[Midnight Blue]

Hi and welcome. Your clutch is on the way out. Mine went the same way, slipping intermittently. Until you have it replaced, be careful when overtaking, you could come unstuck if it slips at an inopportune moment.

 

[red]

Clutch
Horn can be replaced
Indicator could just be the actual indicator stalk, i'd not worry about it
Headlight may be the levelling motor is on it's way out and not effective. They can be manually adjusted.

Welcome to the site!

 

[tekz]

Thanks guys,
If you could clear up some questions for me pls,

How much should it cost to replace a clutch, how much labour involved? Is it better to buy the clutch yourself and then get a mechanic to fit it? And are these the correct clutches http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/c/clutch_components_457/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ? Do I need the clutch kit and the slave cylinder and bearing? Anything else?

Also how much should I expect to pay to get the indicator stalk fixed and the levelling motor if I get them done at the same time as the clutch?

Cheers,
Will

 

[yippeekiay]

IIRC it's around 3-4 hours labour but I could be wrong. Best to price around for both alternatives i.e. pay for the fitting and parts or price/buy them yourself and ask how much to fit. I found it cheaper to buy the parts and get a mechanic to do it as they generally add a little onto the parts price.

It is preferable to get the slave cylinder/bearing (same thing) changed at the same time as the clutch & plate as if it goes wrong then it's the whole labour charge again!!. Chances are both are the same age anyway and there's no way of knowing which is the most hardy. There's been occasions when either has given up before the other so replacing them both should be a good economic decision in the long run.

The clutches/bearings in the link are correct but overpriced o/all imo. You would also be advised to get some brake fluid for when the clutch is bled although most mechanics would provide this as very little is needed.

Indicator stalk - try Ebay/scrapyard for a second hand one would be my advice.

Headlight - again, second hand one or try searching this forum and having a go at the fixes that have been documented only recently.

Hope I've helped in some way

 

[tekz]

Yep, you've helped alot thanks

Know a better place to get all the clutch parts?

Also, which oil would I need?

Thanks again,
Will

 

[tekz]

One more thing, how hard is a bonnet to replace? Been trying to find a guide but can't.
It seems you can pick them up quite cheap and there's a few dents on mine so going to replace it.

 

[yippeekiay]

Ebay is as good a place as any or your local motorfactors....the general census is to try and get a LUK clutch as that's apparently (I may be mistaken) the people who make the FORD one anyway.

Oil??? Not sure about oil if your referring to the gearbox as I didn't need any for mine but iirc I've read some have. Fluid on the other hand should be simple brake fluid - DOT 4 or 5 - as it is taken from the same resevoir as the brakes when the clutch is bled. If you don't know what's in there now don't worry as they can be mixed. As the price difference is negligable I'd go for the 5.1 stuff. You only need a small bottle as I changed the whole braking system with a litre so 500ml will be more than sufficient - as I say, I'd have thought the mechanic would supply that but MAY charge.

No idea about the bonnet, but I'm guessing it's fairly easy as I'm sure I've read of many people changing it. Only 2 bolts each side iirc but the lining up is the hardest part.

Hopefully someone can give further advice for you

Just had a quick look to give you an idea of the cheapest prices (quality unknown), so here's a slave cylinder:-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-FIESTA-KA-FOCUS-PUMA-ESCORT-/290556887890?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a68a4352" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And here's a clutch:-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-PUMA-16V-1-7i-CLUTCH-KIT-BRAND-NEW-/370501188451?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5643977b63" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or you could buy all 3 parts in one go depending on cost.

There's also other options but I won't confuse the matter further...lol

 

[vekma]

bonnet is easy with two people and then a few minutes to adjust, best to almost get bolts tight, shut bonnet jiggle it about then open it and do up bolts tighter, hardest part is getting one delivered undamaged, i have had two damaged in transit now, best if you have a bigger car and fit yourself it wont fit in a puma or fit it and leave them your old bonnet, i am also considering a matt black wrap, there was a nice black bonnet on ebay but was £95 i think
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-Puma-1-7-16V-Bonnet-Black-good-used-condition-/180568967591?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a0abfc9a7" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[tekz]

Cool, thanks for all the help!

I'm assuming the bearing hub comes with the slave cylinder always?

Probably going to get this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-PUMA-16V-1-7i-CLUTCH-KIT-BRAND-NEW-/370501188451?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5643977b63#ht_3011wt_986" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

with http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-FIESTA-KA-FOCUS-PUMA-ESCORT-/290556887890?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a68a4352" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And I don't think I'll need anything else as long as the garage provide the oil?

So I'm assuming 3 or 4 hours labor should cost around £120?

I'll source out a hood after the clutch is sorted out as the problems are piling up lol, I seem to be getting some bump steer so got to get the suspension checked I guess.

That is a nice hood but I think might be able to get it cheaper from someone breaking if I stick around and keep an eye out.

Cheers guys,

Hope you don't mind if I keep posting with questions if and when needed, kinda feel like im jumping in the deep end with all this and will need some help! :?