panther black paint

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TGPlayer1

Active member
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
1,137
Location
Manchester
Are you sure because the whole point of "Panther" black is that it has blue/purple underneath like the fur of an actual Panther.

Look at it in direct sunlight.
 
Buy a tin, spray a bit of card or scrap metal and hold it next to the car. Panther black is panther black though, unless your car's had a full respray in another black that hasn't been noted anywhere for reference. The other thing to bear in mind is that most car colours have more than one variant, but unless you send a part of the car away (i.e tow eye or fuel cap) to the likes of Dingbro, or give the car over to a bodyshop, there is a real chance any paint you buy will look different to what is on the car. Also worth considering the paint/lacquer is over a decade old which in itself has the potential to cause a difference against new paint. Unsure what you are hoping to paint with rattle cans but i can say from experience that's the spray pattern on the Halfords ones are small and circular, not great for doing larger or flat areas as tiger stripes are almost unavoidable, as is dry spray/orange peel. Lacquer in a can isn't much better to be honest as the pressure in the cans, IMO, isn't sufficient to produce an decent quality spray.

But that's just my opinion and it really depends on how picky you are being with the quality of finish.
 
I've seen numerous Panther black cars (including mine) which have some panels that look very green in sunlight due to the paint used for a repair being a slightly different mix to the original. Without going to a paint shop and getting a custom mix by scanning an original panel then it'll never be 100%

And as above the halfords aerosols are not too great for large repairs, and you have to use a lot to get a good finish. I did one corner of my civic bumper and used an entire can on a repair the size of my hand to get a good finish. Then the aerosol lacquer just fucked the whole thing up as it went milky and I had to effectively start again.
 
You will not be able to blend it properly, but as said, it really comes down to how picky you are being with the car. Others have done this (that magical search function would be a good place to start) with decent results that they are happy with but it obviously wont get finished like a body shop, which would required minimum the whole quarter panel be done, likely the panel and the door if its a higher quality job.
 
Hi The metallic flakes are the hardest to match that's what you notice in the sun,also that why I like the colour you have to keep it clean nothing rusts like a dirty ford
 
panther black has more aluminium in the colour, usually as a painter black usually means black regardless whether its a metallic mica or pearl paint. great thing with blacks is they are easy to paint and covers really well. bitch to polish back though.

ford are doing a new black now, which has no aluminium tints in the color, its just simply black with a nice blue pearl I think its called shadow black.

we have a spectrometer that measures the cars paintwork on any panel and it takes those readings and finds the closest match under the colour code. sometimes the camera as we call it surprises us with what shade works on our paint system. oddly enough for panther black there's about 20-30 shades of panther black as its a very old paint that's been used up till this day.

also if the car has been repaired in the past the colour can vary, it depends on what paint gun they were using as each gun atomises the paint in different ways, and sometimes with blacks some painters never bother to do a drop coat which is supposed to be used to even out the finish of the pearl/mica incase its patchy/cloudy or stripy. personally I do it regardless what colour it is as I know the drop coat can help blend the colour better into the adjacent panel or where i'm doing local or smart repairs.
 

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