phew what a week of projects.

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Hi Paul. I'd be interested to hear what you think of the Quaiffe diff. Has it made a big difference? The only experience I ave of the Quaiffe diff is the one that comes fitted to he Mk1 Focus RS, and that handles brilliantly. It's quite expensive but if it works well, I would be very interested.
 
Pumanoob, thanks for this, how did you get the volume of the cylinder head. I guestimated it..and it woked out at 4.9mm for 8.5 to 1 using 3mm for the two head gaskets not 4. so we are not that far off...but did you do a proper paraffin check on the head...
 
well i fitted at first a clutch plate diff for the ib5 box, was not impressed then the box locked up, we have not stripped it yet to see why...I didnt notice any handling improvement

I then got hold of one of the original lsd diffs and this failed due to a bearing going inside...I found that the wheels were squelling all the time. I think this must have been the bearing failing.

now with the rebuilt box it isnt squeeling and it is driving more securely, it seems more balanced on the power and does not seem to squirm and wander on power as much as before...so for now its great...
 
paulob1 said:
well i fitted at first a clutch plate diff for the ib5 box, was not impressed then the box locked up, we have not stripped it yet to see why...I didnt notice any handling improvement

I then got hold of one of the original lsd diffs and this failed due to a bearing going inside...I found that the wheels were squelling all the time. I think this must have been the bearing failing.

now with the rebuilt box it isnt squeeling and it is driving more securely, it seems more balanced on the power and does not seem to squirm and wander on power as much as before...so for now its great...

The combustion chamber volume is a calculated volume, if you have an engines static compression ratio & cylinder volume, you can easily calculate the combustion chamber volume. Its a mathematical equation that can only have one answer. The dynamic compression ratio without boost will always be less then static compression ratio due to piston ring blow by. if you do a parrafin check on the cylinder head, you will get the results i posted earlier, you might get slight variation if a head has been skimmed or spark plugs are slightly longer or shorter then standard, or there are carbon deposits in the combustion chamber.

If you use a de-comp plate thats too thick, you may also get issues with the piston not cooling properly, unless you make it the shape of the head and not the shape of the gasket, ie the holes arent full round.
 
ScubaSteve said:
Also dont live by dyno figures because they are about as accurate a number as throwing darts at a dartboard

As long as your talking about rolling roads

Our superflow bench Dyno is extremely accurate as it is TUV approved and unlike rolling roads takes in to account barrometric pressure. Our Dyno is within 1bhp of Ford's million pound formula 1 Dyno.

These dumps are the only way you can do engine development instead of getting different readings every time.
 
paulob1 said:
yes all very interesting, we have dynos that are shite, engines that will never give more than 270 and views and impressions that confuse...but live on the forum...I like your last line Ryan with a bit of development...what development do you suggest...perhaps we can move it to a useful conversation...yes we have the manuals and on mine it says 290 bhp, thats what I am living with.

its true that most 2 litre engines generally do not give 300 bhp, but I guess its madness that a motorbike engine of just 0.997 litres gives 175 bhp and more....and a 500cc motorbike gives just shy of 200 bhp...and thats in the year 2000

Ryan, I hear what you are saying but your views are clearly your views, tinged with excellent knowledge but as I have heard on here before some people have very closed minds....and whatever we get these engines are ours and we will have fun with them...300 270 or somewhere in between. Mine with nitrous will do what I want and thats plain.

Anyway coming back to my engine...I will collect it this week and ponder the plans and then start the build..got to sort the sump, easy job, sort the throttle bodies, without restrictors...although I may restrict these myself to give me better low end torque, maximum power is pointless without a reasonable power curve, for a road going car anyway...had an escoss once with a 510 bhp engine, totally useless, if it was not at full revs it bogged down and was slower than a std 1.6 escort.. great if you drove it flat out all the time but mental fast and simply mental...useless car. not for me stupid high power again although an MR2 with 500 bhp and twin turbos sounds cool..still hankerafter an s2000...lovely car...


Development wise its difficult to say unroll the size of restrictor is known as if its a small restrictor like 26mm you would probably need to respec cams and head ports.

The reason bike engines make so much power is purely down to revs, if your 2litre held torque at 13,000 revs it too would make silly power but it just can't be done 8-8.5k revs is where a 2litre is happy to peak.

There's no doubt whatever power it ends up making it will be awesome in the car, is take a 270 bhp atmo over a 300bhp turbo engine every day of the week.


We build cosworth engines for a living they have come a long way recently and 4-8 thousand revs with 5,6 or 700bhp nowadays is very drivable.
 
hear what you say about the cossie engines, mine was a dog, over turbo'd and flappy gear stick, useless, no good at all...should have kept it and spent time making it better just could not get on with it...

agree with you 270 or 290 it will be a fun car...just like yours will be..

my only issue is reliability, I drive badly, have little respect for mechanical integrity and expect a car to work, hence why they break down all the time...
I dont want my f3 engine in the gargae every week i want to use it...
 
paulob1 said:
hear what you say about the cossie engines, mine was a dog, over turbo'd and flappy gear stick, useless, no good at all...should have kept it and spent time making it better just could not get on with it...

agree with you 270 or 290 it will be a fun car...just like yours will be..

my only issue is reliability, I drive badly, have little respect for mechanical integrity and expect a car to work, hence why they break down all the time...
I dont want my f3 engine in the gargae every week i want to use it...

Haha thats the issue with these engines in sure it will be fine.
 
well fifth gear just gone on my frp box...am well annoyed, we have only just rebuilt it and now fifth gear synchro all chewed up..I am going to blame these heavy 5 paddle and four paddle clutches I have been using they are both too severe and I am sure they are doing the damage..will fit an st 150 unit and see if that is any better...
 
what do you mean by severe? do they feel heavy on the pedal ? ive got a paddle clutch in mine so i hope thats not what caused it lol mine isnt heavy tho.
 
severe it actually pushes my foot off the clutch peddle and rams it in, that severe....will get a std st 150 clutch and then maybe try a organic clutch if that doesn't work....

it never ends here.,,...

subauru engined buggy running sweet until it gets to about 60+ degrees c on the temp guage then all hell breaks loose. It is only showing 60 degrees plus but it must be getting close to boiling at the engine I guess which is at the back of the car...not far away but maybe not sensitive enough to kick the fan into operation so not cooling the water enough before it goes back to the engine and with such a long set of pipes am wondering it they are a bit too long for the pump...maybe need a higher rated pump...

so first will try fan on all the time...
then uprated pump
then bigger radiator with pressurising cap...
anyone got any other ideas...

other than that it runs sweet...and is mega quick I am sure under 14 second quarter miles are on the cards without too much trouble...
 
Is the coolant sensor the correct one, i mean calibrated to the car? I had an issue with an incorrect sensor, and it wasnt correctly calibrated, so it was reading 70ish when it was actually closer to 100 degrees!

The clutch wont be the issue eating through gearboxes, its the user!!! :lol: My helix paddle clutch is very harsh engagement, and its taking a hell of a lot of torque at the moment, and all seems well so far. Are you flat shifting in it, that can cause the symptoms you are describing, but youd have to have quite a lot of torque to eat through boxes like you do lol! Having a harsh engagement clutch, and an LSD with loads of power on a weak gearbox, with a driver who is quite hard on components probably isnt a good combination. Both my 229bhp 1.7 and my new engine both run a paddle, and both have been fine other then my gearbox breathing issues, ive driven them both hard, but probably not to the extent you have. I think you need sequential or at least an MTX75 box. Then you can run a less agressive organic type clutch in a larger diameter, but it will still take the power.
 
well sorted it after a bity of fiddling, removed the expansion tank completely and went fully pressurised, now need to add a second sensor nearer to the engine so i can see what is going on around the back...the current sensor is on the cool end of the radiator so totally wrong...now working a treat, am very happy.

oops re clutch...I do have a tendency to break cars..

will the mtx blt straight on or is there an adaptor plate...

just sprung an almightly oil leak in turbo puma, well annoyed as she is runnign so sweetly now with 7 psi....driving a treat, still need to do the brakes as the are vibrating a load...
 
The MTX box is the same bell housing pattern as the puma, but youd need to find one with the starter at the front like the puma. The other issues would be new driveshafts, and a speedo pick up, but im sure a man with your resources could get around that. :cool:

Where is the leak now from turbo puma, is it an easy fix?
 
dont know I parked it up and went playing with a few of my other toys..

Offroadingday012.jpg


Offroadingday014.jpg


Offroadingday007.jpg


will fix it today...

am doing a bit of work on the toys myself this week to keep my eye and hand in, instead of using my team all the time...
 
its only 11 tons, the drops will take 15 easily...and the full up train was only 38 tons, she should be able to go to 40 tons on UK roads
 
here's the now running sweet buggy, although just noticed a tiny oil leak that is growing in intensity. I gues its because as i get more confident in its abilities I am pushing it a bit harder...

Buggy2.jpg
 

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