Mk4project
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- Joined
- Jan 13, 2020
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- 1
[ref]CherryVimto[/ref], just out of curiosity what intercooler did you get?
Charged & Puma'd Mk5 ZetecS
- Thread starter CherryVimto
- Start date
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CherryVimto
Well-known member
It was a universal intercooler from eBay.Mk4project said:
I don't have any purchase details for it any more so can't tell you much about it!
CherryVimto
Well-known member
I still haven't come up with a solution for the exhaust/turbo manifold and financial restrictions may have pushed that item back far in to the future.
For xmas I got a new slave cylinder and Focus 220mm clutch but still yet to fit.
In the mean time I have been keeping myself occupied with this which I also got for xmas:
Spend a few days with wiring diagrams and the user manual to work out almost all of the wiring/pinouts. I plan to mount it in to a spare/old ECU case and wire it directly to the back of the connector to make it 'plug 'n play'.
I might consider getting it working on the standard engine then add the turbo at a later date.
For xmas I got a new slave cylinder and Focus 220mm clutch but still yet to fit.
In the mean time I have been keeping myself occupied with this which I also got for xmas:
Spend a few days with wiring diagrams and the user manual to work out almost all of the wiring/pinouts. I plan to mount it in to a spare/old ECU case and wire it directly to the back of the connector to make it 'plug 'n play'.
I might consider getting it working on the standard engine then add the turbo at a later date.
CherryVimto
Well-known member
Did a little fiddling around with getting the Speeduino mounted in to the ECU case.
I have hundreds of screws and standoffs used in PCs so I made use of some of them. I had to chose them carefully as 2 of them were VERY close to electrical components..
Had a scrap piece of foamex as insulation. Didn't really need it as I've used standoffs but hey.. It was going in the bin if not..
Arduino board mounted..
There is a small piece of the case that needs to be cut away (coloured red at the top) to clear the Speeduino and a piece on the right (in the opening) to clear the component for boost reference..
Once that is in, the next job is to try and get this connector off, then work out how I am going to wire the Speeduino to it..
I now have a proper list for the ECU pinout and can see some of the information I got on here is incorrect so I need to re-check all of my wiring.... for about the 6th time!
I have hundreds of screws and standoffs used in PCs so I made use of some of them. I had to chose them carefully as 2 of them were VERY close to electrical components..
Had a scrap piece of foamex as insulation. Didn't really need it as I've used standoffs but hey.. It was going in the bin if not..
Arduino board mounted..
There is a small piece of the case that needs to be cut away (coloured red at the top) to clear the Speeduino and a piece on the right (in the opening) to clear the component for boost reference..
Once that is in, the next job is to try and get this connector off, then work out how I am going to wire the Speeduino to it..
I now have a proper list for the ECU pinout and can see some of the information I got on here is incorrect so I need to re-check all of my wiring.... for about the 6th time!
CherryVimto
Well-known member
Update:
I've found a new way to mount everything in the case so it sits a lot lower. The lid just about fits on as I have it, but I can get the board a little lower to get the lid to fit better.
I cut the ECU connector off the circuit board with an angle grinder then removed the remaining part of the circuit board where it was soldered on using a flappy/sanding wheel.
That didn't leave much to solder to so I had to remove a piece of plastic that the 'pins' went through.
Using the Dupont wires I got I wired up the Speeduino to the ECU connector. I wasn't happy with that for 2 reasons:
1. The cross sectional area of the wires was very small and I wasn't convinced they would carry enough current
2. Where I had soldered the wires, they were very close to the case and were being bent at a 90 degree angle
As an experiment, I bent one the pins that I wasn't going to use so it was straight. The pins are fixed solid and didn't twist or pull out even after being pulled with a pair of pliers.. that convinced me to straighten the rest.
This also made the pins different lengths due to how they were bent which made it easier to solder wires to them.
After I bought a set of crimps, connectors etc. and some better wire I set about making my own Dupont wiring:
The power circuit the ECU was fed from was 15A so I added an inline fuse - I want to keep all the car wiring/fuses as they are in case I need to put the original ECU back in.
Now the problem is I need to cut part of the case because the pins are now in the way and I can't put the case back together!
Then I can connect it to the car to see if it works!
I've found a new way to mount everything in the case so it sits a lot lower. The lid just about fits on as I have it, but I can get the board a little lower to get the lid to fit better.
I cut the ECU connector off the circuit board with an angle grinder then removed the remaining part of the circuit board where it was soldered on using a flappy/sanding wheel.
That didn't leave much to solder to so I had to remove a piece of plastic that the 'pins' went through.
Using the Dupont wires I got I wired up the Speeduino to the ECU connector. I wasn't happy with that for 2 reasons:
1. The cross sectional area of the wires was very small and I wasn't convinced they would carry enough current
2. Where I had soldered the wires, they were very close to the case and were being bent at a 90 degree angle
As an experiment, I bent one the pins that I wasn't going to use so it was straight. The pins are fixed solid and didn't twist or pull out even after being pulled with a pair of pliers.. that convinced me to straighten the rest.
This also made the pins different lengths due to how they were bent which made it easier to solder wires to them.
After I bought a set of crimps, connectors etc. and some better wire I set about making my own Dupont wiring:
The power circuit the ECU was fed from was 15A so I added an inline fuse - I want to keep all the car wiring/fuses as they are in case I need to put the original ECU back in.
Now the problem is I need to cut part of the case because the pins are now in the way and I can't put the case back together!
Then I can connect it to the car to see if it works!
CherryVimto
Well-known member
Apart from screwing the lid back on, ECU is basically complete and ready to fit/test on the car.
I'm waiting on clarification on how to wire the clutch switch to it as I want to enable launch control and flat shifting once I've got her running. Ideally I want that done before I fit this to the car.
Last things to do:
Buy and fit a new coil pack - I need one with built in igniters
Fit my wideband O2 sensor and wire to ECU
I'm waiting on clarification on how to wire the clutch switch to it as I want to enable launch control and flat shifting once I've got her running. Ideally I want that done before I fit this to the car.
Last things to do:
Buy and fit a new coil pack - I need one with built in igniters
Fit my wideband O2 sensor and wire to ECU
CherryVimto
Well-known member
Update:
Everything I have done with this ECU allows me to put back on the stock parts and run it as OEM if I need to - original wiring/harness is virtually untouched.
New spark plugs, coil pack and HT leads fitted - spliced in to the existing coil pack wiring to connect new plug for new coil pack. Coil pack wouldn't fit so I had to make a mounting plate for it.
Found out the Puma cam trigger is not suitable for the Speeduino, I had to rewire it to run batched injectors because sequential fuelling requires a cam signal - had to be very careful how I paired them as I didn't want them firing while the wasted spark fired! Now I have wasted spark and wasted fuel! :lol: I didn't like the suggestion I got about grinding 4 of the lobes/triggers off the camshaft!
Investigated and wired clutch switch.
Fitted vacuum pipe from inlet manifold in to the car - the ECU will use MAP to monitor engine load not TPS.
Tried starting but didn't want to fire up - found the engine loom connector under the coil pack was half disconnected (clip broken so it worked it's self apart)!
Engine tried to fire but wouldn't stay running - adjusted crank trigger angle on the ECU and got her going, although she's running rough and the idle creeps up.
Still to do:
Use timing light to verify and adjust timing/cam trigger angle.
Recalibrate the Wideband sensor - mine typically isn't in the calibration list, but I have found how to set it manually.
Idle control valve hums so loud you can barely hear the engine. The noise resonates through the inlet pipe and is amplified out of the filter.. sounds like a fog horn! - need to change the frequency it runs at but not easy to find the exact information on what it should be.
Everything I have done with this ECU allows me to put back on the stock parts and run it as OEM if I need to - original wiring/harness is virtually untouched.
New spark plugs, coil pack and HT leads fitted - spliced in to the existing coil pack wiring to connect new plug for new coil pack. Coil pack wouldn't fit so I had to make a mounting plate for it.
Found out the Puma cam trigger is not suitable for the Speeduino, I had to rewire it to run batched injectors because sequential fuelling requires a cam signal - had to be very careful how I paired them as I didn't want them firing while the wasted spark fired! Now I have wasted spark and wasted fuel! :lol: I didn't like the suggestion I got about grinding 4 of the lobes/triggers off the camshaft!
Investigated and wired clutch switch.
Fitted vacuum pipe from inlet manifold in to the car - the ECU will use MAP to monitor engine load not TPS.
Tried starting but didn't want to fire up - found the engine loom connector under the coil pack was half disconnected (clip broken so it worked it's self apart)!
Engine tried to fire but wouldn't stay running - adjusted crank trigger angle on the ECU and got her going, although she's running rough and the idle creeps up.
Still to do:
Use timing light to verify and adjust timing/cam trigger angle.
Recalibrate the Wideband sensor - mine typically isn't in the calibration list, but I have found how to set it manually.
Idle control valve hums so loud you can barely hear the engine. The noise resonates through the inlet pipe and is amplified out of the filter.. sounds like a fog horn! - need to change the frequency it runs at but not easy to find the exact information on what it should be.
CherryVimto
Well-known member
Final (farewell) update for this car...
Due to rust (basically holes in the underside of the car) she will be stripped and scrapped on 19th June 2022.
Not something I expected, but considering she's at least 20 years old and doesn't really owe me anything and I've had her longer than any Puma I owned, I can't complain.
This is a bit of a sad blow really considering I had got the turbocharger mounted to the manifold. All I then needed to do was get a bit of welding done on the manifold then fit everything to the car.
But, all will not be lost. I will be stripping the car down to a shell. I will be keeping everything that has been poly-bushed, the engine, rebuilt gearbox and anything else I have replaced/upgraded.
I'll be looking for a 'donor' for these parts in a few months - no idea what it will be but I am strongly considering another Puma now I know someone who can weld and someone who has a garage & lift.
Thank you to anyone who help and advised on anything and thank you to anyone who wanted to waste thier time reading any of my posts.
Not for me, but for this car... farewell and I will see you all again soon, hopefully with another project!!
Due to rust (basically holes in the underside of the car) she will be stripped and scrapped on 19th June 2022.
Not something I expected, but considering she's at least 20 years old and doesn't really owe me anything and I've had her longer than any Puma I owned, I can't complain.
This is a bit of a sad blow really considering I had got the turbocharger mounted to the manifold. All I then needed to do was get a bit of welding done on the manifold then fit everything to the car.
But, all will not be lost. I will be stripping the car down to a shell. I will be keeping everything that has been poly-bushed, the engine, rebuilt gearbox and anything else I have replaced/upgraded.
I'll be looking for a 'donor' for these parts in a few months - no idea what it will be but I am strongly considering another Puma now I know someone who can weld and someone who has a garage & lift.
Thank you to anyone who help and advised on anything and thank you to anyone who wanted to waste thier time reading any of my posts.
Not for me, but for this car... farewell and I will see you all again soon, hopefully with another project!!
mmc757
New member
Its a tough call to make, and bravo for doing the right thing. I've been limping my favorite rust bucket along for about 8 years longer than I really should have by this point.
CherryVimto
Well-known member
I have been doing some serious thinking about what to do with the Fiesta...
Looking at current prices of cars of a 'similar' platform, I could essentially be paying out anything from £800 to £1,500 for a replacement car.
And that would be providing that replacement won't be rusted out within a couple of years.
Cheapest option that I can see right now would be a Puma which I would love to have, but we know how likely they are to come with plenty of rust!
Also, if I cancel my insurance then take out a new policy in a few months, I would need to pay a deposit as I have modified vehicle insurance which could potentially take the replacement car cost up to anything around £1,600.. give or take a little.
I have been talking to the guy who lives near me about getting it repaired/welded. If I provide a few sanding discs and cutting wheels and pay to refill the gas for his welder, he would only expect me to pay towards the time he takes to work on the car. Considering the reasonably small amount of work it needs I doubt this will be a huge amount although I know with rust you never know where it'll end!
With all this considered I have decided that it would be cheaper to repair the Fiesta than replacing it. After the repairs I will strip everything from underneath, clean, treat and stone-chip/seal the underside - something that I planned to do anyway and something I would end up doing to whatever I replaced it with. And I have got a pair of replacement rear quarters to replace the rusty arches that I don't want to see go to waste!
With all this decided, I have started to test fit the turbo. So far I have accomplished:
Turbo mounted to manifold - mounting plate/manifold requires welding up properly
Oil return on sump - sump removed, drilled, fitting attached, sump refitted and re-sealed
Piping from intercooler to throttle body - intercooler has been fitted for over a year!
Inlet piping from MAF/filter to turbo inlet - not 100% happy with it but I have done the best I can considering the lack of space and some other constraints I've had to consider
Still to do:
Piping from turbo to intercooler
Weld manifold properly
Metal repairs
MOT
The turbo will come off and everything put back to standard ready for the MOT as I don't believe I can get the turbo on and running before then.
Looking at current prices of cars of a 'similar' platform, I could essentially be paying out anything from £800 to £1,500 for a replacement car.
And that would be providing that replacement won't be rusted out within a couple of years.
Cheapest option that I can see right now would be a Puma which I would love to have, but we know how likely they are to come with plenty of rust!
Also, if I cancel my insurance then take out a new policy in a few months, I would need to pay a deposit as I have modified vehicle insurance which could potentially take the replacement car cost up to anything around £1,600.. give or take a little.
I have been talking to the guy who lives near me about getting it repaired/welded. If I provide a few sanding discs and cutting wheels and pay to refill the gas for his welder, he would only expect me to pay towards the time he takes to work on the car. Considering the reasonably small amount of work it needs I doubt this will be a huge amount although I know with rust you never know where it'll end!
With all this considered I have decided that it would be cheaper to repair the Fiesta than replacing it. After the repairs I will strip everything from underneath, clean, treat and stone-chip/seal the underside - something that I planned to do anyway and something I would end up doing to whatever I replaced it with. And I have got a pair of replacement rear quarters to replace the rusty arches that I don't want to see go to waste!
With all this decided, I have started to test fit the turbo. So far I have accomplished:
Turbo mounted to manifold - mounting plate/manifold requires welding up properly
Oil return on sump - sump removed, drilled, fitting attached, sump refitted and re-sealed
Piping from intercooler to throttle body - intercooler has been fitted for over a year!
Inlet piping from MAF/filter to turbo inlet - not 100% happy with it but I have done the best I can considering the lack of space and some other constraints I've had to consider
Still to do:
Piping from turbo to intercooler
Weld manifold properly
Metal repairs
MOT
The turbo will come off and everything put back to standard ready for the MOT as I don't believe I can get the turbo on and running before then.
CherryVimto
Well-known member
I run a web server and decided to upload my photos there as my Flickr account seems to have disappeared and I've hit my limit of images hosted on here - I must remember to keep the server running! :lol:
A few pictures of the turbo install:
Eye spy with my little eye...
Typically the turbo has a V-band type connection for the cold side so my choice of parts to connect to it were very limited.
The cold side/inlet is VERY close to the manifold.
Not my finest work and certainly not how I wanted the cold side/inlet pipework to be, but space and other factors have made it what it is. When I get the Speeduino set up and working I will probably re-work the pipework as I will remove the MAF, but for now it will suffice.
Just need to add a bend so the MAF and filter will be pointing downwards below the fuel pressure regulator.
A few pictures of the turbo install:
Eye spy with my little eye...
Typically the turbo has a V-band type connection for the cold side so my choice of parts to connect to it were very limited.
The cold side/inlet is VERY close to the manifold.
Not my finest work and certainly not how I wanted the cold side/inlet pipework to be, but space and other factors have made it what it is. When I get the Speeduino set up and working I will probably re-work the pipework as I will remove the MAF, but for now it will suffice.
Just need to add a bend so the MAF and filter will be pointing downwards below the fuel pressure regulator.
What limit have you hit? I can take a look at it if you prefer.
DAN@ADRIAN FLUX
Member
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2008
- Messages
- 115
Hi.CherryVimto said:
If you ever need any help with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line.
Regards,
Dan.
CherryVimto
Well-known member
red said:
I think I have hit my upload limit in the gallery but I can self host the pictures, that's not a problem as long as I keep my webserver running!
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