Charged & Puma'd Mk5 ZetecS


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Found the issue with the rattling/banging... the wishbone front bolt was loose.
I couldn't understand why that would have came loose, but I remembered we had to undo one end of the lower strut brace when we did the cambelt. When we lowered it down it loosened the bolt and we stupidly forgot to re-tighten it!
Nice easy fix.
Unfortunately due to the weather turning very cold and wet, I have had no intention on freezing my rear end off working on the car outside, so progress has ground to a halt for the time being.

I got a nice present for Christmas:

Wishbones - front
Wishbones - rear
Gearbox mount

(Rear beam already done)

In the next couple of weeks I plan on ordering adjustable drop links and a pair new wishbones and fitting the poly bushes to them.
I decided to change my mind about replacing the wishbones. I'm keeping the originals and just going to replace the bushes and ball joints.
So, apart from the top mounts that will be replaced when I eventually change the shocks, all of the suspension parts will be renewed.

Wishbone bushes + new Ford bolts
ARB bushes
Ball joints + new Ford pinch bolts
Drop links

I got the car over to my friends yesterday to fit all the parts.

Took about 40mins to pull apart everything that we needed to remove. No rusted or seized bots. The ball joints came away from the hubs with almost no effort. Great start to the day... Or so I thought...

The ARB bushes were a pig.. but I knew they would be without dropping the subframe.

The wishbone bushes came out with the help of a 6 tonne press, ploy bushes went straight in without any issues.
I ground down the rivets on one wishbone to replace the ball joint just to find out the new ball joint was fractional bigger than the original so it wouldn't fit in the bottom of the hub. Managed to get that sorted after a couple of hours.
I left the original ball joint on the other wishbone. I didn't really need to change them, but wanted to as it made sense to do so while it was all apart.
Spent several hours trying to get the wishbones lined up to get all the new bolts back in - the car was fighting me all the way.

Polybushing the gearbox mount and fitting the drop links were the only things that went right.

But... despite how much the car resisted the newly polybushed wishbones it feels brilliant to drive.
After driving the car around for a few days a knocking/twanging noise appeared. I roughly knew where the noise was from and the car didn't seem to handle negatively but I obviously investigated the issue anyway.
Despite checking through in my head everything that was done while the car was on my friends lift.. I missed a slightly loose lower nut on the passenger side drop link - it was rattling on the end on the ARB. Totally my fault but at least it wasn't anything too serious.

Today I did a fair bit of work. I removed the bracket/metalwork that the battery (& tray) used to be bolted to - I drilled out a few spot welds and tore it off with a crowbar and brute force!
I mocked up some pipework from the air filter (& MAF) down towards where the supercharger will be.
Then I hit a small snag.... the supercharger will not fit where the A/C pump used to be.. it touches the radiator.. and that is before I even get any pipework attached to it.
I tried to fit it 'flat' so the charger inlet/outlets would be on the top but that was a no-go too. No way it would fit that way.
Gutted and slightly annoyed but yet not surprised...

I wont give up.. so back to the drawing board....
Every supercharger installation that I've seen requires moving the radiator forward by a couple of inches. I don't think you can install it there otherwise. I've also seen someone mounting the charger over the exhaust manifold. But there it'll get very hot.

Another solution might be to use a narrow radiator like those found in some old Civics that starts after the charger and towards the air filter.
All joking aside...It wouldn't be impossible to move the radiator to the cargo area. If you built an enclosure for the radiator and fan assembly, and designed a good path for air flow, it might not be too bad. Maybe some NACA ducts or scoops for intake would actually look pretty cool in the rear quarters. Then the hot air discharge could go out a set of vents through or below the rear bumper cover. That would free up a lot of space for plumbing in the nose.
I wasn't entirely sure whether I wanted to post this update considering how many 'ups' and 'downs' its had and with how many times I have changed my plans.
I could just post a load of lies and excuses but I'm going to be completely open and honest - I'm not going ahead with the supercharger but instead going back to a turbocharger like I originally wanted.

Yes this is another change and it seems like this 'project' will never get completed - but it will!
Let me explain the reasons behind all this...

I wanted to do a turbocharger right from the start. I spent many, many hours reading through Errolls budget turbocharger project, learning about all the parts I needed and how the setup needs to be put together.
Despite me having most of the parts for the conversion, a large stumbling block for me was not having the resources, capacity or the knowledge to do any fabrication work so I tried to get as many parts 'ready made' as I could - even though the word 'budget' would then probably get blown out of the water!
The biggest pit-fall for me was the oil return. I had several people telling me I needed a special high temperature pipe for the return. While looking on eBay I found several OEM oil returns that 'looked like' they were mostly made from a piece of rubber pipe with metal ends. After many hours of research I couldn't find anything that would 100% tell me what I could make the return from. In the end this was the reason I decided a supercharger would be more 'straight forward'.

Now, lets move forward several months.
The supercharger does not fit as 'straight forward' as I initially (and probably stupidly) hoped, which was based on pictures and offering it up on my spare engine.

I've got to know a guy who lives 4 houses away from me who is a welder fabricator and has his own welding equipment. We made an arrangement that I would do the electrical system on a custom motorcycle for him and in return he would do any welding/fabricating I needed on the car.

I also found a reconditioned Saab turbocharger for a very good price compared to most second hand items I found. I sold the supercharger and put those funds back in to pay for the turbocharger (plus a small amount from my pocket).

I have all the specific parts I originally bought for the turbocharger conversion (and one I'm waiting to be delivered) so the plan is:
1. Get my spare engine from my garage to my house and use it to mock up the turbocharger location.
2. Remove tubular manifold from the car and cut off the downpipe - car then becomes unusable/off the road.
3. Put manifold on spare engine and work out placement for turbocharger.
4. Weld turbocharger mounting plate to manifold and attach turbocharger.
5. Make oil return with metal pipe, drill and attach to sump.
6. Remove sump from spare engine and fit on car replacing the original.
7. Fit manifold along with turbocharger (and oil return) back on to car.
8. Make and fit exhaust downpipe from turbo.
9. Fit turbo oil feed.
10. Make cold air feed from Filter (and MAF) to turbocharger.
11. Fit pipework from intercooler to throttle body (already made)
12. Fit pipework from turbocharger to intercooler.

After that I need to decide what I am doing with the exhaust. From the turbo the downpipe will be 3" so I will need to decide whether I will buy stainless pipe and have the rest of the exhaust re-made at home as 3" or take the car somewhere and have it done 'professionally'.

No shame in changing plans. You made great progress on the SC setup and probably made it further than most people would expect.
A scrapped project = A completed project.
You certainly gained an education out of the ordeal.
A turbo is probably more appropriate for this engine anyway.

Don't overthink the oil return line, its not rocket surgery. Once you decide where its going into the sump at, any hydraulic shop could make you a hose with the fittings you need in the correct length for a reasonable price. Or you could even just buy a universal kit off Amazon that will get the job done.

As for exhaust, most exhaust shops offer surprisingly reasonable prices that are usually worth the investment. The final product will probably be good quality work and save you a bunch of brain damage. I would at least get an estimate before deciding. Remember, your time has value too.
I hate changing plans.. it makes me look like I'm incapable of finishing anything! :lol:

I ordered a 1D (tight) bend that arrived today. Should flow nicely while being small enough to fit behind the engine!

I need to roughly work out how much space this is going to take up. I think I will need to cut down the adapter for the turbo to make it smaller/shorter. Once that is done I can get it welded which has already been arranged, I just need to drop it off to the guy down the road!
No problem in changing projects. I have struggled for much much time about supercharger vs turbo. And now that I've decided I have to change again the engine from 1.7 to 1.6 because I can't declare the 1.7 one. So all good with change and I'm looking forward to see the evolution of this project.

In preparation for getting the turbocharger mount welded to the manifold, I got my spare engine from my garage so we can use it to mock up the install. Once that is done everything can be transferred straight on to the car.

Something I couldn't find reference to in the turbocharger threads by Erroll and Madhillbilly was whether their turbochargers were water cooled.

The turbocharger I have has ports for water cooling and according to information I have read, if the turbocharger has the ability to be water cooled then it is advisable to do so.
Garrett states that the turbocharger core should be tilted to 20 degrees to allow hot coolant to 'thermally syphon' through the turbocharger thus allowing it to still be cooled even after the engine has been turned off. The coolant return must also be higher than the turbocharger.

For peace of mind I want to water cool my turbocharger but was not entirely sure how to go about it, but I think I have figured it out...

While pulling apart the spare engine I found this bung on the back of the block which, when removed, gives access to/from the water jacket. It is 1/4 NPT thread. This hole will be the coolant feed to the turbocharger..

Next thing was to work out where to return the coolant back in to the system.
Using a diagram someone posted on here a few years ago, I found where to return the coolant using the housing under the coil pack which should also be high enough to allow the coolant to thermally syphon. Looking at the diagram the coolant should still flow even with the thermostat closed as it bypasses the HCV and returns back to the thermostat housing.

I removed this from the spare engine and wondered what the other sensor was there for in the bottom of the housing. I looked on the car and there isn't one there so no idea why it's on this engine.
I'll possibly remove that sensor and use the existing threaded hole to return the coolant from the turbocharger.

I would be reluctant to install a line that bypasses the engine like that for fear of not giving the engine enough flow.
Its pretty common when adding water cooled components to install in series with the heater. Not only is it easy but it doesn't impact the system flow balance.
On the other hand, it might be just fine. I would keep a close eye on engine temperature though.
Yes, that is a good point.

The hoses are going to be 8mm internal diameter so would that make much of a difference to the flow around the block?
That choice of route was selected to try and make sure I had cool(er) coolant from one end of the block that can then be returned to the hot(ter) end of the block to be cooled through the radiator.

A lot of information I read did suggest it is 'normal' to tap in to the heater hoses but I wanted to find a solution that looked more like a proper installation.

I will look to see if I can find parts to enable me to tap in to the heater hoses.
I didnt realize it was only an 8mm hose. Running it in series with the heater wont work for being that small.
I say go with your original plan, just monitor temperature to make sure its okay. If it get too hot you can do something else.
I would probably place the return in the radiator inlet hose instead of where you show it though.
Just as my luck goes, the turbocharger I got required some kind of V-band fitting to attach the intake pipe. After a lot of research it seemed that the 'V-band' wasn't actually a V-band like the generic type you can buy online.
In the end I decided to buy a proper 'Cobra' intake pipe. It is quite long so I may shorten it and there are a few 'ports' on it that I would need to either blank or get welded up..


I searched the web today to find an exhaust shop that makes & fits exhausts.
There were none near me so I filled in a couple of online enquiry forms outlining what I wanted and patiently waited for some prices to come in.

A few years ago I got a stainless LongLife CAT-back system made for my '98 Puma. I asked for a dual tip exit so they fitted a large silencer across the rear (where the spare wheel tray used to be), specific tips that I requested and a centre resonator. Including VAT it was around about £600 all-in which I didn't think was that bad considering it took them almost all day and they cut, bent & welded every part.

So, when enquiring for the Fiesta I stated that I didn't need any flange or anything for the turbocharger. Just a short downpipe, high flow/sports CAT and (high flow?) rear silencer.
Compared to what I paid for the Puma I expected the price for the Fiesta to be higher.. increased cost of materials plus I also requested a CAT. What I didn't expect was how much higher the price would be....

Downpipe including high flow CAT - £350 +VAT
Mid & rear for a 1 box system - £400 +VAT
TOTAL - £900 inc. VAT!

Jeez! :cry: