Charged & Puma'd Mk5 ZetecS

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Updates are probably going to be scattered and random for a while...

Bought a lump of 5mm thick mild steel for a little over £5 delivered..

20200729_095842

20200729_095842



With gasket from supercharger..

View media item 6230

Plate made with inlet/outlet holes marked for reference..

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The nut should be welded on to the oil bung this Friday so I can then get the snout back on, sealed and filled with oil.
 
Today we managed to get a nut welded to the charger oil drain plug. It took 3 attempts as the plug was stuck in tight. Every time we tried to undo it the weld broke.
And the stars must have been in my favor as I found a bolt that fits.. the only one I had that size!

20200731_201845

20200731_201845


20200731_203043

20200731_203043



All sealed and back together and also need to get a rubber O-ring to seal the new drain bolt.

View media item 6234

I did a test fit of the charger on the front of the engine. It is going to be tight but I'm sure it will go where I want it.
I had some scraps of angle iron in the garage which I am going to use to mock up a mounting bracket.
 
It'll be interesting to see how you get it all mounted. I've had a couple of MX5s, including a turbo conversion, and a few guys over there run superchargers. There was quite a few went down the cooper s m45 route a while back with people selling mounting kits etc. Thought of selling a kit if your neighbour can fabricate?
 
I think the MX5 was more popular to supercharge than a Puma engine and probably had more 'off the shelf' parts made specially rather than having to fabricate everything from scratch.

Putting the double crank pulley on will make the mounting easier as the charger will be further away from the oil filter which will allow it to mount closer to the block.
It will then have it's own drive belt which means I will need to incorporate some kind of tensioner. My initial thought was to put the charger on a pivot and use a bolt to move/tilt the charger to tension it.. but I'm not convinced that mounting method will be strong enough.
Failing that, I have an idler pulley from a Cambelt which I can mount and make a tensioner out of that.

As for making a 'kit' that would depend on how mine turns out and whether I think it could be a 'generic' kit suitable for everyone... obviously what I make will be specific to my setup.
 
Started to mock up the mounting for the charger which is in no way perfect and is not going to be the final piece.

View media item 6235
Ideally I want to get the double crank pulley on so I can gauge the positioning location properly but i am going to wait until I have the new cambelt... although I am so eager to get that pulley on sooner.

While I wait for that I will look at mounting the fuel pressure regulator and get that 'plumbed' in.
 
Ohh it's one piece. That's nice. Also the outer pulley seems to be bigger diameter than the inner one giving more rpm to the charger.

Alex
 
The 'inner' pulley is slightly bigger than standard, so the outer pulley will actually be bigger than it looks (compared to the OEM/standard pulley) :eek:)

Question.. to anyone who may know the answer....

I have read on different forums that when fitting a supercharger it should also be fitted with a bypass valve, so when on idle any 'boosted' air is returned to the inlet side to prevent boosted air getting in to the engine causing over revving/idling issues..

Can anyone shed any light or opinions on that..?
 
You definitely need a bypass valve when the throttle body is downstream of the supercharger. The supercharger blows air even when you close the throttle plate. Air has nowhere to go so it can pop-off hoses etc. In mx-5s which are very usually supercharged they use a cooper s bypass valve together with a classic turbo bosch bypass valve.

The problem with this is that throttle can have a bit of an on-off behaviour. A solution is to use a big bov like tial q with a -2psi spring. The problem in this case is that they are expensive.

For a start I'd probably use a classic turbo 1" bypass and see how it goes from there.

Alex
 
Thanks for the info Alex

I already bought a recirculating bypass valve for the original turbo conversion. I have seen and read that these can be used as a bypass valve.
Without actually properly connecting it to the boost piping I may connect it to the inlet with the vacuum hose just to see when/how it opens to see if I could potentially use it.
 
Directing your recirculation to the low side between the MAF and the Charger will simplify tuning and make it easier to run correctly from the get-go.
If the recirc exits the high side before an intercooler, you might consider adding a cooler in the recirc line so your not reintroducing hot air into the intake. This may need to be a fan-supplemented cooler since it will get most of its use at low speed.
 
The stumbling block on this project at the moment is not being able to get some kind of idea where the charger will align with the double pulley as the pulley has not been fitted yet.

After 2 of us carefully measuring and test fitting the double pulley on to my spare engine we have found it sits 3mm further away from the engine than the stock pulley.
I found someone local to me who is going to machine the back of the pulley by 3mm so it sits closer to the engine.. like stock.

So I can get the double pulley on I have also ordered:
Cambelt kit (Gates)
Water pump (Febi Bilstein)
Rock cover gasket (Elring)
 
Now I can start to make my mount for the charger..

View media item 6259

The angle iron looked a bit underrated for what I wanted.

I had to check the plug on the dials as the speedo stopped working after I put the cable through the bulkhead for the wideband. While I was doing that I put through the pipe for the boost gauge.. I think everything is through the bulkhead that needs to be, so hopefully that's a job ticked off the list.
 
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