new headunit not saving

ProjectPuma

Help Support ProjectPuma:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AshLaw

New member
Joined
Jan 18, 2016
Messages
318
Location
Kent
Hiya,

I have just installed a new Xtrons D302 headunit in my puma.

Everything is working fine including the reversing camera (switch off reversing light) except for the permanent live.

The cabling on the back is both ignition and permanent live - yet non of the settings are saved when the ignition is off nor does the unit work when the ignition is off (as per the old unit).

Do I have to splice into the clock power (this is permanent live) or the hazards?

regards,
 
I'm unsure, I thought the original units only worked when the ignition is on, which means there's no permanent live there. Will have to check.
 
moondustka said:
[post]347167[/post] I'm unsure
I'm not. :)

I have the original unit and they do a '1 hour' session, any time with the ignition off. But they also have proper standby/shutdown circuity.

So, along comes Mr Aftermarket and splices into a perm. live feed. Two days later, starts a thread on flat battery troubles. The reason will be a parasitic drain from the aftermarket stuff. Reversing camera screens are particularly draining, but will obviously appear to be off.

I think they reckon that 90% of the time the reason for batteries going flat quickly i.e. from overnight to a week, is down to aftermarket stuff. I have details on how to do parasitic draw/drain testing, but there's vids on YouToob for that stuff as well.
 
Hiya Frank,

Care to explain?

The camera is only powered when the car goes into reverse and it was my intention to splice into the constant live from the clock. I assume thats not not the way to go?

regards,
 
Care to explain?
At well past midnight, nope I wouldn't care to. :)

AshLaw said:
[post]347175[/post] The camera is only powered when the car goes into reverse
But, as I wrote, reversing camera screens are particularly draining.

It's all on the Net, but I'll look in again tomorrow evening and go through it then, if needed.
 
AshLaw said:
[post]347175[/post] I assume thats not not the way to go?
An ICE unit uses miles too much juice to take of the clock wire, that's for sure. Take from a big old wire, with a big old fuse, like the cigar lighter feed.

As for the rest - initially temporarily wire it up straight to the +ve side of the battery. Set the unit up, test it and then do a parasitic draw test (vids on Yootoob on all that) on the battery making sure that the key is out of the ignition and that the door switch is clamped/wedged off (yes, you will have turned off the interior light, but the ECU still knows the switch is open and enters a draining phase otherwise)

If you get a draw of less than 50mA from the test, then you're good to go with that unit and can wire it up properly to a constant feed of your choice. Any more than that, then you might want to consider wiring it up to an ignition on feed instead.

Essentially the problem is that some units, especially from China, use far too much current even when apparently off. The only real quick way to know if yours is like that is to test as above.

If it sounds complicated, it's because it is. There is a big difference between electrics and electronics.

Hope that helps. :)


moondustka said:
[post]347181[/post] you forget how it works!! :lol:
:p
 
Solved this:

The ISO leads that I got (Puma to new headunit) had the constant live and ignition live the wrong way round. So I pinned them out and swapped them - now works perfectly.
 
AshLaw said:
[post]347208[/post] Solved this:
Yep, that would be one of Chinese units that comes with the red and yellow wires the wrong way round.

That's OK, everyone has different definitions of what 'now works perfectly' means. Good luck. :)
 
So are the ISO leads that come from a very well known audio shop from china then?

The permanent live and ignition live were the wrong way round on the ISO leads not the head unit.
 
I know this doesn't help the thread, but.. I found my headunit works with the ignition off but only with the key in position 1. I'm guessing this is how the others are? Does the standard unit come on without a key?
 
AshLaw said:
[post]347226[/post] So are the ISO leads that come from a very well known audio shop from china then?

The permanent live and ignition live were the wrong way round on the ISO leads not the head unit.

Yes exactly, switch yellow with red :)

as for one hour cycle... have no idea...

I checked the perm live... it has 12.5V... red cable
yellow only when key put on I, has 12.5... on ignition pos 0, it has 0V...

yet, my player doesn't do the 1 hour logic function... it's a VDO and there is a setting on it... but still doesn't work, only with ignition... the REM goes straight from player to the woofer... nothing else... so no idea...
 
red and black... i'd say NO!!!!...

or get a digital voltmeter and see... put red conection to red, black to black... if it reads 12... DO NOT SWAP IT... if it reads -12 SWAP IT.

But if his HU is working... i would suggest TO NOT SWAP RED AND BLACK... RED is 12V BLACK is EARTH... what you try suggesting is a serious hazard!
 
seems like post before me with the suggestion of switching red and black was removed :)

anyway yes red and yellow wrong way around... i swapped it too :) works with one hour logic :D i just didn't pressed the button firmly enough last time to turn it on :) works without a key too :)
 
Back
Top