Rear Arch Rust Success?

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ianv5

New member
Joined
Jan 7, 2010
Messages
254
Location
Thrapston
Has anybody had any success with cutting out visible rust in the rear arches, filling with plastic padding/fibreglass, rust treating, priming and painting without any re-appearance of rust?

Or is the only option to cut out whole rear arch and replace with new metal e.g Peugeot 206 wing?
 
I believe no.
The rust will re-appear sooner or later.

I think the case is that you need new metal to get rid of the rust for a longer perioid. I believe it will still return after few years...

I'm trying to tackle this problem with a new method. Well new to me anyway. I'm going to use bespoke glue to bond the new arches on. This has few advanteges, compared to welding them on, that I hope will prolong the rust free era...
And gallons of waxoyl....
 
I'm currently looking at getting mine repaired, Has anyone got any pictures of the peugeot 206 wings the have been put onto their car? It would help me out alot!! :D
 
only real way to elliminate rust is to take it out of the equasion IE replacing it with something that doesnt rust, like GRP or CF.
 
Roadsport said:
I believe no.
The rust will re-appear sooner or later.

I think the case is that you need new metal to get rid of the rust for a longer perioid. I believe it will still return after few years...

I'm trying to tackle this problem with a new method. Well new to me anyway. I'm going to use bespoke glue to bond the new arches on. This has few advanteges, compared to welding them on, that I hope will prolong the rust free era...
And gallons of waxoyl....

I was looking into this method as well have you got any details?
 
What sort of deteils do you have in mind? I've never done it before but I'm going to. Had a brief chat with our bodyshop guy and he convinced me it is the modern way to do it.
 
I think its superior to welding due to few facts:
-No need to dismantle the interior (except to get the bucket load of waxoyl in)
-No fire hazard
-Better rust resistance due to no burnt metal
-Air tight seal between the two metals no room for moisture between
-The inside of the replacement panel can be painted prior to bonding to further prevent rusting
-The inner arch can be glued too end the litle nooks ann burrs can be filled to prevent water and debree sitting around
-Will not bent pull or otherwise distort the quarter panel
-Excess glue can be grinded off when cured
-Makes a strong permanent solid bond
-Faster due to no slow welding to prevent distortion

On the down side the glue needs to cure few days in warm prior to grinding and painting
 
you can get the kind of seal used for the lotus's vehicles. the vehicles made by Lotus are mainly "glued" together and they have proven that it is extremely strong. Maybe you can get some strong aluminium arches and glue them onto the puma using betaseal (i think thats what its called)

And you will have solved your rusting problem.
 
Well, that could be. Only where would I find such arches. Would need to have them made.
And I'd still have the inner arch to worry about.


I do believe diamonds and rust are forever....
 
The inner and outer arch were bonded in production and not welded.
The inner arch lip is usually rusted to nothing and needs replacing with new metal. This can only really be done in sections, welded in a bit at a time, unless you have a very good panel beater/sheet metal worker to make a new panel.
the outer arch would need drilling and riveting while the bonding took place and would need bodyfiller to finish.
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e3silversurfer said:
you can get the kind of seal used for the lotus's vehicles. the vehicles made by Lotus are mainly "glued" together and they have proven that it is extremely strong. Maybe you can get some strong aluminium arches and glue them onto the puma using betaseal (i think thats what its called)

And you will have solved your rusting problem.

I looked into this Alloy arch thing. Even sourced the alloy wheel arches. But it seems to be a no go. It isn't a forever lasting solution anyway.
Regular steel and alloy togeteh for an electro chemiv´cal reaction causing the alloy to corrote.
Thin alloy sheet would corrote treough propably soon. Thich alloy sheet would be hard to bond on with a nice look when finished.
ou could work around this phenomenon by completely isolating the aluminium from the sheet metal. But you are glueing them together held in place by pop rivets... I'd say .... it would come back to bite you in the ....
I guess bonding on a steel sheet is the best bet and with the nicest outcome....and waxoyl waxoyl waxoyl...

Rust is forever....
 
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