FRP Duratec Turbo Project!

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Ok, so Yippee got me thinking and me & my mate did some calculations, and here are the results

ST 5th gear ratio 0.878. (mainshaft 36 teeth, layshaft 41 teeth)
1.4 5th gear ratio 0.755. (mainshaft 34 teeth, layshaft 45 teeth)

final drive 3.82 (crown wheel 65 teeth, pinion 17teeth)

results

Fiesta ST 5th gear. 1.4 5th gear
63.61mph @ 3000rpm. 73.97mph @ 3000rpm
67.85mph @ 3200rpm. 78.95mph @ 3200rpm
68.91mph @ 3250rpm. 80.14mph @ 3250rpm
74.24mph @ 3500rpm. 86.3 mph @ 3500rpm
148mph @ 7000rpm. 172.72mph @ 7000rpm

So an increase of 16.36% road speed with the 1.4 5th gear!! 3000rpm with the 1.4 gear is pretty much the same as the ST 5th at 3500rpm
 
Nah, not going for massive power, but my 1.7 hit 150ish on the clock so about 135/140ish in reality, but that had laads more left, just ran out of gears!! Im going for more power in this build, so i think it will have plenty of torque, maybe not for 172mph, but in reality, even if i did have the power, i crapped myself at 150, so ill leave the top speeds for someone else. Im just looking at more economic and quieter 5th, it cost me a fortune driving my green puma down to santa pod and anywhere further then 10 miles away!

A guy had a turbocharged focus ST170 and the tyres gave up at 170 and he totalled his car, and nearly killed himself. They were good tyres too, but the speed rating wasn't up to the task!! Im not after peak figures and top speeds, im after good torque and power curves, thats why im only looking to change the 5th gear (aswell as the fact that changing any other gear scares the hell out of me!!)
 
Bloody hell, that's some difference to the 1.7 gear speed/revs as you'd get nowhere near them in 5th on my box. The drive in the ST box must be way different or the 1.4 5th gear HUGELY different in size.

Do you know the final drive of the 1.7 as I'd be interested in what revs the 1.4 5th gear would pull at equivalent speeds. Better/lower cruising revs would interest me greatly as it revs far too high as standard for my liking plus I would'n t mind lower gearing once I have the car where I want it.

On another note, are you keeping your Turbo Pu' and this when your finished or getting rid of one?.
 
I'm sure the specs for the 1.7 are available, I've seen them somewhere. I'll have a look for the specs, but if anyone knows what the final drive ratio of the 1.7, then you can work it out. Those speeds are with 215-45-17 tyres on, so might vary a little, but I think the increase as a percentage should still he relevant. The BC escort diesel van 5th is taller still, and most of the fiesta diesels have similar gearing.

As I said, the gear pulled is available to borrow for free to anyone who needs it, it's quite rare, & a quick goolgle search will show you that the IB5 5th is a nightmare to get off without one.

I think Ill be selling the green puma once I've done this, a few fiesta owners are interested in the engine, & a couple of people on here, but I'll try and sell it complete first, I put a lot of work into that car, and it would break my heart to take it appart.
 
hi can wait untill the build is finish. im helping one of my mates with a project, he has got a mk5 fiesta with a duratec engine. it was first built by pumaspeed. he has just got a new alternator on it with a regulater built in it. the wiring on it is quite poor so he is getting it rewire soon with a emerald ecu. at the moment he has a go-tec ecu it looks quite basic but i dont know much about it. future plans are to put a cosworth inlet and cams in. not sure the inlet is going to fit though. do you have any hint or tip you would be able to give.

thanks eddy
 
PumaNoob said:
warrenpenalver said:
Neil said:
Condition wise, it reminds me a little of #013. I guess I'm one of the purists, I'm not sure if I like the idea of the car being messed around with.
better than it ending up with the "breaker brothers" IMO.
PumaNoob said:
to be honest, I never had the privelige of driving an FRP before this, so I can't say I have, but from what I've heard, it is awesome!! I'm just going off the fact that the brembos are 25mm bigger, so should in theory have better stopping power. That being said, I could be wrong!! Only one way to find out!!
Having tried cars with both, unless you go for some massive 6 pots then you will very unlikely find a road 4 pot caliper that can beat the alcons for performance. But then, they are a motorsport caliper so its not surprising really.

and if you read jacko's guides, then they really arent hard to service.

yeah, that's pretty much my opinion too!! The thing is, i got a set of brembos for £170, a full seal and screw rebuild kit for £40, and mintex pads and EBC grooved and dimpled discs for £85! That's more then £100 less then the discs alone for the alcons! Yes I did get a good price for these, as I know people in the trade, but I also dontlike the fact that FRP owners are forced to pay a ludacris price for discs that production and material wise, are not much different to the Focus rs discs. If I do this conversion, my brake disc suppliers then become competitive again!! Like I said, it's 1 more thing that's going to be future proof on my car!


your barking up the wrong tree completly with regards to the brakes....

thinking a 300+mm disc will be better is a little short sighted...

The alcon disc is INSANELY sturdy and thick and with it's directional venting will dissapate WAYYYYY more heat than any standard road disc for a standard road car like the focus ... it's s shame you've binned the alcons .... they're insanely good for such a modestly powered car.... As Al has already said you really can't overheat them, they just keep coming back for more.. :twisted: :twisted: i know a lot of people buy brembos, think they've got the 'daddies' of barkes so to speak but then go and buy shitty motorfactor discs for them..(or even worse EBC.lol)..

nuf said.. :cool:
 
Hi, I'm just working things out myself so your friend is a lot further on in his project then me!! From what I've seen, you can easily get over 200bhp with a cosworth inlet, a good set of cams, & a good remap. Grahamhathaway racing have a good set of cams on eBay now, high lift & I think about 270 duration. They are cheap for what they are, I'd have had them but 270 duration is no good for a turbo. On eBay US there is a duplicate of the cosworth inlet plenum. It's a direct copy, just without the cosworth writing on. I've brought the cosworth one, & it's identical.

One tip I've been told, & have taken the advice, is to key the crank, especially if you will be raising the rev limit. The only thing stopping the timing chain sprocket from slipping is the clamping force of the pulley.
 
el dude said:
your barking up the wrong tree completly with regards to the brakes....

thinking a 300+mm disc will be better is a little short sighted...

The alcon disc is INSANELY sturdy and thick and with it's directional venting will dissapate WAYYYYY more heat than any standard road disc for a standard road car like the focus ... it's s shame you've binned the alcons .... they're insanely good for such a modestly powered car.... As Al has already said you really can't overheat them, they just keep coming back for more.. :twisted: :twisted: i know a lot of people buy brembos, think they've got the 'daddies' of barkes so to speak but then go and buy shitty motorfactor discs for them..(or even worse EBC.lol)..

nuf said.. :cool:

Wow, we really cant let this go can we??? :lol:

thinking a 300+mm disc will be better is a little short sighted...

If you read what i said near the end, i said, and still maintain, that if both discs and pads were of the same material, the bigger disc will have a better stopping power! So i dont believe its short sighted, i believe its physics. This is not what ive tried and tested, this is just what logic leads me to believe!


On a different note, how many of you with Alcons actually "need" the "Racing breed" brakes on a road car?? If most people had the option (me included) i would probarbly not opt, or indeed need to use a "racing spec" disc when a fast road spec would suffice! My friend has the brembos on his Rover tomcat with EBC discs and mintex pads, and on a few laps of circuit racing with them on has not managed to fade them yet, and thats braking from speeds of up to 140mph. Im not saying they wont fade after constant use on a track, but i wont really be using my car on track, maybe a few laps on a small track, and drag strips, & brembos are more then adequate for that!!

I never managed to fade the escort cosworth brakes on my green puma, so these brembos are fine for my application!!

I will also be fitting a set of Mondeo MK3 clocks to my puma, i think the standard 90's looking clocks are dreadful, the FRP should have come with something a lot more modern! Ill probarbly get a lot of negative feedback for that too, but i like to go against the grain!! :cool:

My only indecision is weather to have white dials with blue back lighting, or white dials with standard green backlighting.I dont like indiglo dials, i want a stock look stilll, but a more modern stock look!!!

Ill go from this
25012010188.jpg


To this

Mondeodials.jpg


These are Diesel dials, but just an idea!
 
Ooooo I do like that idea with the dials!! :cool:
Are they a straight enough fit or is that going to be a mission in itself?
 
Some of the wires are a straight swap, but some soldering of the chips from the puma clock will need to be done to get them working properly. It will be another hybrid jobbie. You can plug a Mondeo mk3 clock straight in, but other then power and illumination, nothing will work. I also tried focus clocks, but other then the plug being different, the clock works the same as the Mondeo, so it will take a little messing around to use with the STD 1.7 ecu! I don't believe it's been done before, but I'm going to give it a go!

The display on the left is the temp gauge, but gets it's signal from the ecu. The 1.7 ecu dosent have a temp output, so I'm going to open up a temp clock, & attempt to get it to send the same signal as the 2.0 ecu!

Does anyone know the pinout for the fiesta temperature clock? I know the power pins are the same as the standard clock, but not sure about the temp sensor wiring.
 
Can't say I know it off the top of my head but found this picture when scouting for a Fiesta clock on eBay earlier this evening:

fiestaclock.jpg


Puzzled as to why you'd want to hook the Fiesta external temperature sensor up to the dash (which would normally display engine / coolant temperature) though! :p
 
Lol, sorry, I must not have made myself clear!! I meant the green display in the picture, it looks like an odometer. On the mondeo, that displays the outside air temp, & can toggle between mpg ect. All that info comes from the Ecu, so the fiesta temp clock can do the same job, if I don't wire anything into it, it will just be a blank box like in the pic. That's fine really, but I might aswell use it for something!
It would be good to use it for boost or A/F, but I don't have the skills to do that!!
 
your barking up the wrong tree pumanoob with the dash. the later dashes such as focus and mondeo use canbus technology to recieve data from the ECU, the information is sent in the ford SCP language.

the puma ECU although an EECV ecu is not enabled to do canbus communication in any form other than diagnostic via the OBD port. The later EECV and newer ECU's are activated for both canbus in accordance with OBDII as well as serial data stream to the dash in ford SCP.

you want a later mondeo or focus (or even fiesta ST) dash to work and you need to fit it with an equivilent generation ECU to communicate with it. Its as simple as that. Your fitting a 2.0 duratec so have plenty of choice, even if you just leave the ecu to run dash and PATS and not the engine.

the only way to do it without a correct ECU is to make a computer module that inputs the analogue signals from the sensors and converts them into SCP databus stream to the dash. I doubt you have the electronics skills to do that let alone the software skills to program the chip to run it all. There are companies who will sell you a box to go the otherway ie turn SCP info into analogue data to feed a tacho such as in HGVs but they dont sell a device that can do it the right way round for your needs and wont make one for a sensible price as a custom project either. I know as ive asked a few specialists about it!!

your best bet is run your engine on the correct ECU or at least keep the correct ECU and its sensor feeds to run the dash and PATS.
 
I should have a sore throat with all this barking up wrong trees!! :lol:
Your right about the data stream Warren, but I've found a way aroound it that's alot simpler in my opinino, & by the end of today, I will prove that it can be done!! Just because the chips on the mondeo clock are there to transform the data, dosent mean you have to use them!! You know I've looked at this for a while now as a asked on your project about the wiring. I then spent some time with a 12v battery and 4 different speedos on the table working things out! With the right tools and knowlege, you of all people should know anything can be done.

Wire in the 12v perm live
Wire in the 12v switched live
Wire in the earth.
Then it's easy to wire in indicators, full beam, main beam, illumination, as they are all just a 12v switched
Sound ok so far???

Now it gets technical!!!
You sabbotage the circuit board, so the earths to the battery, abs, fuel, oil, ecu, door open light are all severed. As they work the opposite way around to the puma lights, this is essential, or they will come on the wrong way around, ie be on when they are supposed to be off, & be off when they are supposed to be on! Then you wire the earths of these bulbs to their corresponding pin on dash, as these are just switched earths.

Now for the part your talking about. If the clock you want to use dosent convert the information to what you want, then use the corresponding chips from the old clock that will do the job! The puma clock is a VERY simple unit, no where near as technical as the mondeo clock. So much so that it takes very little time to work out what controls what! I can then transfer the controllers over to the mondeo board to get the correct signals.

Still think I'm barking up the wrong tree??
 
bigal82 said:
them clocks look really nice and stop barking lol :lol:

Lol, i know mate, i dont know which trees to bark up, and which to avoid!!

warrenpenalver said:
your barking up the wrong tree pumanoob with the dash. the later dashes such as focus and mondeo use canbus technology to recieve data from the ECU, the information is sent in the ford SCP language.

the puma ECU although an EECV ecu is not enabled to do canbus communication in any form other than diagnostic via the OBD port. The later EECV and newer ECU's are activated for both canbus in accordance with OBDII as well as serial data stream to the dash in ford SCP.

you want a later mondeo or focus (or even fiesta ST) dash to work and you need to fit it with an equivilent generation ECU to communicate with it. Its as simple as that. Your fitting a 2.0 duratec so have plenty of choice, even if you just leave the ecu to run dash and PATS and not the engine.

the only way to do it without a correct ECU is to make a computer module that inputs the analogue signals from the sensors and converts them into SCP databus stream to the dash. I doubt you have the electronics skills to do that let alone the software skills to program the chip to run it all. There are companies who will sell you a box to go the otherway ie turn SCP info into analogue data to feed a tacho such as in HGVs but they dont sell a device that can do it the right way round for your needs and wont make one for a sensible price as a custom project either. I know as ive asked a few specialists about it!!

your best bet is run your engine on the correct ECU or at least keep the correct ECU and its sensor feeds to run the dash and PATS.

Just a little something for your viewing pleasure !!

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xd2cN2v3fKI[/youtube]

The faces are cut up because i was going to try & fit the faces to the puma clocks, then retro fit some back lights, but i thought just fitting Mondeo clocks was simpler, this is just the back part of the clock without the screen!. Now i just need to buy the white dials with blue back lighting. Its the standard FRP ECU, and still standard FRP engine! i havent touched the wiring on the car, so if i want to change back to original clocks, i can just unplug these, and plug the standard clocks back in!

Took a long time, some patience, and a soldering iron!

I guess that tree i was barking up turned out to be the right tree after all!! :thumbs:
 
You misread me if you assumed i said i cant be done.Not having a dig at you but the way you wrote it suggested you could just swap over wiring and be done with it. It just cant be done plug and play with standard dials as the two dont match up. hacking apart the dials could work as youve found!

you got any pics of transferring the control circuitry over?? from what you describe youve in essence fucked off the mondeo circuit and just use the puma circuitry and control IC to power the motors for the mondeo dials. Have you been on a drive to make sure the revs and speed read correctly proportionately?

so whats left is mondeo casing and clocks with puma control electronics??

You thought how to get the LCD on the rev counter to work? or are you thinking of transferring the temp module into it?

it would be interesting to know if theyve used the same motor arrangement and how each motor determines its angle, ie is it the motor circuit that is calibrated to move the dial 10 degrees per 10mph or if the circuit converts a speed into a direct angle for the motor. You want to make sure there is no mismatch between the two. if it works perfectly then you could in theory put a dial face and motor unit from say a 170mph speedo in it.

I want to get the focus mk1 ST or RS dials working as they have 170mph dials. the ST170 dials also have cool electroluminescence.

how well did the mondeo dials fit in the dash?? i found the focus ones are a touch too big on the corners and a bit of work to match up the screw holes.
 
Not having a dig at you but the way you wrote it suggested you could just swap over wiring and be done with it
As you have probarbly seen, i dont always explain exactly what i mean, and have to sometimes re write stuff, like when i said that i want to wire up an external temp gauge, it looked like i want to wire it up to the water temp gauge!!

you got any pics of transferring the control circuitry over?? from what you describe youve in essence f_cked off the mondeo circuit and just use the puma circuitry and control IC to power the motors for the mondeo dials. Have you been on a drive to make sure the revs and speed read correctly proportionately?

Thats exactly what ive done, still used the circuitry on he Mondeo clock, but basically followed the circuitry from pin 18, 21, 24, and 25 on the puma clocks, looked at how it was laid out, and replicated it on the mondeo clocks. Theyre just a few chips (which are present in the mondeo clocks) and a few resistors. Then Pin 1 & 2 on the mondeo clock are power (same as Puma), Oil light (pin 8 ), Air bag (pin 9), ABS (pin 10), Handbrake (pin 11), left indicator (pin 18), Right indicator (pin 19), full beam (pin 20), door open (pin 23). It wasnt without fault, i burnt out some of the cuircuit board on the back a few times, and had to re solder chips and bypass burnt out cuircuitry. Ill get some pics when i get my blue dials through.

You thought how to get the LCD on the rev counter to work? or are you thinking of transferring the temp module into it?

it would be interesting to know if theyve used the same motor arrangement and how each motor determines its angle, ie is it the motor circuit that is calibrated to move the dial 10 degrees per 10mph or if the circuit converts a speed into a direct angle for the motor. You want to make sure there is no mismatch between the two. if it works perfectly then you could in theory put a dial face and motor unit from say a 170mph speedo in it.

Im going to try and do the same thing with the mondeo temp clock, surely it just needs 12v power, and the converter chip that converts the signal from the temp sensor. Ive taken out most the chips from the mondeo clock as they were earthing things that didnt need to be earthed ect, so theres plenty of places to put it!

Ive still not got the Air bag light wired up properly yet, but it looks like everything else is working. I thought the same thing with the motors, because when i first wired it up they werent all working well, so i also swapped the actual motor over too, they are exactly the same dimensionally, so just 2 t10 screws and straight swap. I think the motors are the same, but with no part number on them, i just took the precaution of swapping them. Ive not tested it all properly yet, or driven it, so dont know if the coolant temp or speedo are working. Ive checked the angles of each clock, and the increments are exactly the same on all dials, so with the same motors and the same signal from the ecu, they should function correctly!

I looked at the RS and ST170 clocks, but looking at the ST170 clocks, they look front lit like the puma clocks, and thats what i was trying to get away from, so my preferance is RS clocks.

Fitting wise, they are a fair bit wider, so you can just about see the edges of the coolant and fuel gauges, so im going to heat up the widest points of the surround, & elongate them a little. The screws are on the bottom of the Mondeo clock, and it wont fit the fixing lugs, so ive had to cut them off, and ill look at an alternative method of fixing them.

A quick not to anyone else who wants to do this. The Mondeo clock uses the same earth for pretty much everything, the puma clocks dont, so if you dont seperate them (cut through the surface mounted conductor), you will burn it out in the as soon as you plug it in, as i learned yesterday!! I came close to giving up a few times, as there is so much to try and isolate, when i disconnected the fuel light, the odometer worked, but could not get them to work at the same time, sooooooo frustrating! I had to de solder almost all the lights, and start again wire by wire to find out where it was shorting, and isolate each individual bulb when there was a problem.

As said above, these are now basically puma clocks on a mondeo casing!
 

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