Project 'M'

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UPDATE:

The car has just been collected at 08:30 today by a polite & friendly chap from HOLIWAYS FORD of Durham, to have the full Cam Belt Change Kit (Belt, Tensioner, Bolts, Cam Cover Gasket & Aux Belt). Good service so far from Holiways Durham, whose details I got from the 'recommended list' on this forum :cool:

.....so I will be £341 down by 3pm this afternoon, but it will be worth it, to be able to enjoy the Puma without the constant worry about the overdue cam belt change. :grin:

Next up will be the the procurement of a replacement n/s mirror as mine is cracked (the cover), and also the wheel painting project. :cool:

Cheers.
 
Car back from Holiway Ford, with full new Cam Belt Kit + Aux Belt.

They also done a free 'healthcheck', that recommended a new o/s/f coil spring and 1 new tyre. I'm afraid I was never going to be buying either of those items from a Ford Dealer :grin: ... but still handy to have had the car checked over, and good to know that it has no major issues (the technician who drove it back complimented the car and commented on how sound it was to drive, for an 11 year old car).

So some nice reassurance to know it has a new cam belt kit > now on with the fun ............... ------------ >

Current project status:

PHASE I - COMPLETED

- Obtain second remote fob as only have 1 at present and that makes me nervous!
- Obtain & fit Clear Side Repeaters.
- Clean MAF sensor.
- Clean fuel system with BG44k.
- Free up jammed drivers lock (was working fine with remote but not 'key in lock'.
- Have new Cam Belt kit fitted (inc. tensioners, bolts, aux belt, cam cover gasket etc).
- Remove spare wheel, to reduce weight, and use tyreweld onboard instead.
- Replace front brake pads & discs.

PHASE I - NOT YET COMPLETED

- Engine Service: Change Oil, Filter, Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Spark Plugs.
- Source and fit replacement passenger mirror.
- Paint original wheels matt black.
- Paint mirrors matt black.
- Fit performance panel filter (eg. K&N).
- Fit new number plates.
- New Puma matts for front & back.
- Paint brake calipers red.

PHASE II - NOT YET COMPLETED

- Choose & Fit Replacement Suspension Kit (lower -30mm)
- Fit FRP Manifold & exhaust
- Get FRP type remap from Pumaspeed
 
Today I decided to do the 'resonator removal' derestriction mod on my airbox ............ but the session turned out to be a lot more interesting that just pulling out a plastic box with a tube attached ----------->

When I opened the bonnet and checked my airbox I was horrified to see that the top half of my airbox seemed really 'lose'. A further peek revealed that the top half of the airbox was in fact completely detached from the lower section - with a gap of around 2 inches !! .....therefore I've been driving my Puma with (i) no air filtration at all, and (ii) air coming solely from the rather warm area around the 'gap'

I then found when I tried to tighten the screws that the casing must have been threaded as none of the screws would tighten at all. After taking the top of the airbox off and removing the resonator, I therefore hunted down some new slightly longer screws and managed to get the top of the airbox tightly screwed back on to the bottom half. :)

The test drive ---------> Oh My God (I never abbreviate it), I don't actually know whether the airbox had come off just recently or whether it has been like that the whole 4 weeks I have owned the car, but I suspect the latter, as the car just felt amazing afterwards. It even started quicker and more smoothly, and in the drive just revved so much more smoothly and above 4k just takes off! ............... So what I am saying here is not that my Puma is faster than a standard one; What I'm saying is that the fact that I've been driving around with an 'open' airbox which is now tight shut, along with the removal of the resonator means that relative to how it HAD been driving my Puma is running seriously well and feeling MUCH faster to me. :grin:

Happy days!
 
Lucky you spotted that before you sucked something up, like a small rodent!! :lol: it's amazing how colder air going into the engine rather then warm air from the engine bay can make the car drive so differently! Most people fit aftermarket filters thinking they are improving performance, when they are actually reducing it.
 
PumaNoob said:
Lucky you spotted that before you sucked something up, like a small rodent!! :lol: it's amazing how colder air going into the engine rather then warm air from the engine bay can make the car drive so differently! Most people fit aftermarket filters thinking they are improving performance, when they are actually reducing it.

Absolutely! Because I'd not owned Puma before I just assumed that this was how they ran, nippy but a bit asthmatic.... but with the box on properly and some cold air coming in, everything has changed;-

- Smoother, quicker engine starting.
- MASSIVE difference in throttle response.
- Change in tone of the engine (less metallic).
- Much more freer revving. (especially above 4k)
- Just quicker; and that's what we all want eh!

So a great 'mod' : knacker your airbox, suck in hot air for a month, then fix it and your call will feel 10bhp better lol!

Have decided to go for a K&N Panel Filter in the box, so going to get that ordered.

Also considering going to Pumaspeed in Wakefield to get their Remap. I'm not fussed about BHP numbers, I just want the torque limiter removed on 1st & 2nd gear as I can feel it, and don't like it one bit. :evil:
 
I would advise against that, the gearboxes when stress tested had a high failure rate in 1st and 2nd, neither gear was shot peened, which is why the limiter was put on

aside from that do you really need the extra in 1st? when do you ever use that in anger? i run my track puma fine on track with the limiters, doesnt affect my progress at all
 
What do you mean you can feel the limiter? It's not something that gets bounced against, it's based on spark retard so it's instantaneous.
 
I made a torque limiter removal switch, it disrupted the signal to the ecu so it didn't know how fast you were travelling, and I can honestly say it felt no different to me! I then completely removed the limiter by fitting an aftermarket spark controller. I've run over 200ft/lbs through that gearbox, with some launches off the line, and so far its been fine, I've used it for about 2 years now! So I wouldn't recommend paying to get the limiter removed simply because it didn't make a difference to me what so ever!! I don't think taking the limiter off is going to damage your box, if mine runs with double the torque of a standard puma, then I think your safe! If your gearbox is not in the best condition, then its going to go regardless!
 
heres some information about the failure rates

1) Torque truncation works by taking the crank speed sensor reading and the road speed reading and by doing a comparison in the ECU it calculates when it is in first gear. This does not require all gear ratios to be programmed in. It is simply a comparison table. You may not like the sound of it, but that's how it works :)

2)As a history, the IB5 started off as the B-4 in 1978 for the 1.0/1.1/1.3 litre Fiestas (max 60HP). The IB-5 program started in 1996, with closed bearings, bearing D with innering, 1st/2nd and 3rd gear double synchronisation, retuning of 4th/5th gear synchronisation, neutral selection springs in the transmission and hydraulic clutch actuation.

3) Failures. When the 1.7 Sigma SE161 project began (Puma to non-Fordies), durability testing discovered three main flaws with the gearbox.

a ) Final drive gear tooth failure
b ) Reverse gear tooth failure
c ) Bearing D failure (I have no idea what this is)

Other failures experienced were 4th gear crashing, and 1st gear jumping out.

At this time there were two final drive ratios under test - 4.27 and 3.82. At 4.27 the teeth broke off the pinion gear. This was then shotpeened to improve the failure rate. This improved it by 20%, but it still failed. Torque truncation was introduced to limit the torque from 157Nm to 135Nm, and 110Nm in reverse gear (as reverse is lower and hence has a higher loading). Someone made a bloody stupid comment on this list about "how does torque limiting protect the car in 2/3/4/5/ gears". Well, if you have ever ridden a bike with more than one gear, you will know that the torque multiplication goes down as the gear ratio goes up, and hence torque truncation only needs to be on 1st/reverse gears.

The production final gear ratio was chosen as 3.82. This could not be shotpeened for manufacturing reasons (gear size). Without torque truncation on the super accelerated life test, there was a 62% failure rate. With torque truncation this became 100% pass rate.

4) In answer to the question about "how does this protect your gearbox if you rev the engine and dump the clutch?" - it does not. There is no protection on the Puma for this. I asked this question and was told "we expect our customers to have a bit of common sense". The bigger engined Foci do have this problem as they kept breaking driveshafts during development. The solution was to put a peak torque limiter on the car. Basically this is a delay valve in the hydraulic clutch line which limits the speed of engagement. During normal driving conditions this is not noticed, but during stupid driving will allow slip to protect the drivetrain.

5) To a member - whoever told you that the IB5 can take 300 bhp is probably not well informed. If you drive sensibly than your gear box may well last. The testing carried out during car development is deliberately harsh and represents 100,000 miles + of motoring, so I am not going to say to anyone that there gearbox will break without a torque limiter because it is not necessary true.It depends on how you drive it.

However, the IB5 gearbox design torque limit is 135Nm.

so in short term i think you are right pumanoob but failure rate on an average road car is increased by removal
 
Very interesting read!! I think it's farely obvious that if you increase the power level on something, your likely to shorten the lifespan, but I think there are a lot of factors. The weight of the car, the size of the wheels, and the way you drive it. If you were daft enough to try and fit 22" wheels on your puma, and keep dumping the clutch, something's going to go wrong.

What's interesting to me is that for all the turbo conversions that I've come across on the 1.7, and nitrous, these are the mods that produce the most torque, an NA engine won't come close, every one that has broke has not been due to the gearbox, it's been due to the engine. There are at least 5 people on this forum with nitrous or turbocharged engines that are running stock gearboxes. Those tests were done on gearboxes that were constantly stressed for a 100k simulation, & still there was a 38% pass rate! No doubt if I kept my turbo puma at its peak torque for 100k, it's not going to make it out alive, but on the grand scheme of things, I think taking the torque limiter off isn't going to make much difference to the life of the gearbox or the driving experience at normal power level.

Another thing to look at is the fact that the mk1 focus 1.8 weighs something like 200-300 kg heavier then the puma, with taller gearing, and a larger outside circumference on the stock wheels the gearbox is still only an IB5 with exactly the same internals as a puma box, only real difference is cable shift and taller gearing. Granted it only has 115bhp or something close to that, but it still has 158nm of torque, so more then the puma! If it can haul around that car & last 120k plus, a 1080kg puma will be fine.
 
Peter said:
What do you mean you can feel the limiter? It's not something that gets bounced against, it's based on spark retard so it's instantaneous.

Why would that mean that I can't sense or feel the retarding taking place?...

Or did you just want to demonstrate your knowledge lol .......... I know how the torque limiter is effected and yes I can 'feel' it :wink:

Thanks for the other posts ....... So in that case, how come FRPs aren't all failing on 1st & 2nd gear? .... I understood the FRP map doesn't use the Torque Limiter ?
 
PumaNoob said:
I made a torque limiter removal switch, it disrupted the signal to the ecu so it didn't know how fast you were travelling, and I can honestly say it felt no different to me! I then completely removed the limiter by fitting an aftermarket spark controller. I've run over 200ft/lbs through that gearbox, with some launches off the line, and so far its been fine, I've used it for about 2 years now! So I wouldn't recommend paying to get the limiter removed simply because it didn't make a difference to me what so ever!! I don't think taking the limiter off is going to damage your box, if mine runs with double the torque of a standard puma, then I think your safe! If your gearbox is not in the best condition, then its going to go regardless!

Hi Pumanoob,

Do you have any links to the aftermarket spark controller that you fitted, or was it not 'off the shelf' ?

Cheers.
 
ScubaSteve said:
frp gearboxes are shot peened in reverse 2nd and 1st

Ah ok cheers.

I don't drive my cars hard but on the occasions that I do enjoy a 'spirited drive' I like a 'quick off the mark' experience, more than a fast mid-range or top end experience; hence looking at this torque limiter as a bit of an enemy :lol: ... but of course I understand that it's there to protect the gearbox and appreciate that. I guess in a £900 car, bought for fun I just take the view that I'm willing to take the risk, even if it improves the 0-30mph time by only say 0.3mph. (perhaps not even that, as we know sometimes the numbers don't tell the story).

I wonder if anyone on the forum has had the custom Pumaspeed remap?

Cheers.
 
Longyear said:
Or did you just want to demonstrate your knowledge lol .......... I know how the torque limiter is effected and yes I can 'feel' it :wink:

I agree with being able to 'feel' the torque limiter.

Due to a problem which I could not afford to fix at the time, I 'got round' the issue my disconnecting something which also kind of 'defeated' the limiter.

I thought it felt a lot more lively in first gear and would pull off from stand still quite quickly.

After fixing the issue, I connected everything back up, and I can say the limiter is very noticable. On a quick pull-away, the engine feels like it 'bogs down'.
 
I agree topmansparkie, it does just feel 'restricted' or bogged down; when you feel how the car revs and progresses in 3rd,4th & 5th, it becomes noticible that something is slightly impeding the fun in 1st, and to a lesser degree 2nd.

Well, I've just temporarily removed the VSS plug (no speedo!) just for a quick test and wow, the 'off the mark' performance feels so much livelier. Really surprised; I am certainly not going to leave the sensor plug off, but it has made up my mind that I'm going to get the PS custom remap, which removes the torque limiter 'properly' via the ECU... (as opposed to the Ford one they also sell, which I think just reduces the rpm limit, similar to the pre-2000 cars).

:grin:
 
My speedo would still work as I have an analogue dash and a cable driven speedo!! :p

Can't beat the good old stuff!! :cool:
 
Longyear said:
Peter said:
What do you mean you can feel the limiter? It's not something that gets bounced against, it's based on spark retard so it's instantaneous.

Why would that mean that I can't sense or feel the retarding taking place?

Because it happens within twenty cycles of the engine.

If you want to get round it bogging down, the trick is to use the clutch to stop the revs dropping as you pull away.
 

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