Project 'M'

[PumaNoob]

This is the link to the ignition system i used http://www.autosportlabs.net/MegaJolt_Lite_Jr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.

Its really easy to wire up, you just need a ford EDIS module, and you can set it up as a sort of piggy back ecu for your existing ecu. You just need to splice the connections from your crank sensor to the EDIS module, and then from the module to the coil pack, and to the ECU. If you do decide to go for it, you need to pick between a TPS version or MAP version, if you are looking to keep your car NA, which i assume you do, your best to get the TPS version. If you did decide to go for MAP version though, i have a very good map that will get you started, copied directly from converted FRP map bins.

With all this gearbox talk, what is the worst that can happen, you break it and have to pay £50 for anothewr one?? Worth it if you can get more enjoyment out of your car. I Know a lot of people wont agree with me, but i honestly think they put more of a torque limiter on later pumas to justify the price difference between the standard puma and FRP!! How many people would buy the focus RS for example, if the focus ST was as quick?? Just a theory!

On another note, i said i couldnt feel any difference, but the guy i brought my green puma from had it remapped at pumaspeed, but was sure they left the limiter on. Its deffinitely had a remap because it revs up to 7200rpm, and its got the tape ecu which it didnt have from new, so maybe they took the limiter off, thats why i couldnt feel any difference!!

 

[ScubaSteve]

why would they bother shot peening gears for the frp if there was no issue

 

[PumaNoob]

Possibly because its got more power, and its a heavier car!! Ford are not going to send a car out knowing full well the gearbox is only good for 30k miles. They are made to last. Nobody said there was "no" issue, and i think everybody agrees that taking the torque limiter off may well shorten the life of the gearbox.

Think of it like this, if ford thought the box wasnt strong enough to take an extra 30bhp (not sure what the torque difference is), then in theory, an frp wouldnt be able to take any additional power, because it could barely cope with the power its got!! But it does.

If you think the standard gearbox cant take even the torque of a standard puma without limiting the power, how do you explain this??

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFxBVSS1w5M[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQbZIzDWyPc[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5egWgoFGN0[/youtube]

2 years of running it with that power, and its been driven hard!

 

[ScubaSteve]

id love to reply to this with a fully informed answer but im too busy watching porn atm, maybe tomorrow

 

[PumaNoob]

Lol, so youve probly got your hands full then, or at least one of them!! :lol:

To be honest, its become a bit cluttered with pages of talk about the damn gearbox and torque limiter, from what i can gather, Longyear dont give a monkeys if it will shorten the life of his box or not, he just wants a more lively puma, and hes willing to take the risk. You could argue all night long saying if or how long the box could last, but the truth is, NOBODY KNOWS!!!

What porn you got, anything good?? Ive heard chicks with d*cks is a good one, from the same producers of broads with swords!! :lol:

 

[ScubaSteve]

youporn blud

 

[Longyear]

and there was me thinking ScubaSteve was a bit of a fuddy fuddy, always painting a gloomy picture and "you shouldn't change what Ford designed etc etc" and he comes out with a LEGENDARY post like this :- :lol: :lol:

id love to reply to this with a fully informed answer but im too busy watching porn atm, maybe tomorrow

Classic. :thumbs:

Well I have to say that (temorarily) running the car with the speed sensor removed was a real eye-opener; if you haven't tried it you should*; the 1st gear acceleration is stunningly improved... yes I used the word stunningly. I've had remaps (for TDIs) that have added 45hp and 60nm torque but as the power is often 'tagged on the top' it's not always a day to day use improvement; the Puma 1.7 without the torque limiter ecu algorhythm spoiling the fun is a striking improvement 'off the mark'. It's a BIG increase in the already healthy levels of fun these cars give us.

However, as I have a digital speedo, I did lose my speedo reading, and bizarrely I also got a permanent 'door open' warning on the dash. Least good of all though, I got a few stalls while the car was idling, at lights etc .

So plugging the sensor is not IMHO a long term option.

But I will definately be getting a remap that removes the torque limiter. 100% budgeted into plans. I hereby accept all risks of a shaft or gearbox failure!

On a different note, Pumanoob great videos (really nice HQ sound), and if that is your Puma Turbo which I believe it is, it's a beauty and a credit to you. Man, it destroyed that Sierra Cosworth.

Cheers,
Longyear

* PS... a lot of "guides" will tell you that you need to unplug the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) itself from the top of the gearbox, but it is hard to access and often seized on (probably never removed). I followed the wire loom that comes off the sensor and it conveniantly came to a simple plastic clip-plug about 3 inches below the top of the engine. 2000% times easier to unplug that plug than to try to get the sensor off itself. (and easier again when it comes to plugging it back in!)

 

[MichaelW]

I wonder if anyone on the forum has had the custom Pumaspeed remap?

Mine is probably being done right about now, it's in with Puma Speed today having FRP cams and remap.

 

[Anonymous]

I followed the wire loom that comes off the sensor and it conveniantly came to a simple plastic clip-plug about 3 inches below the top of the engine.

Thats how I disconnected mine!

The effects I got from disconnecting the VSS:
Bit 'lumpy' when coming off throttle.
Bit 'lumpy' when travelling at a constant speed.
Slightly increased fuel consumption.
But, from the difference it makes, I could live with all that!!

I didn't drive the car any different, just the extra grunt was handy when I wanted it.

I've already had my O/S drive shaft replaced, but have no idea if the lack of restriction in first gear caused it/made it worse...

And yes, ScubaSteve's comment was a classic! Really did make me laugh!!

 

[PumaNoob]

I didnt completely remove the plug, maybe thats why you had the stutters.
I installed a "push to break" switch on the gear stick, then split the speed sensor wire and put either side to the switch, so when i pressed it, the torque limiter was removed, but when i let go, everything was back to normal. I cant remember which wire it was now, but if anyone needs to know, i can go out to the car and see.

 

[ScubaSteve]

brown iirc

 

[The Arch Bishop]

youporn blud

Always remember to click the 'private browsing' option on your web-browser.

 

[Anonymous]

I didnt completely remove the plug, maybe thats why you had the stutters.
I installed a "push to break" switch on the gear stick, then split the speed sensor wire and put either side to the switch, so when i pressed it, the torque limiter was removed, but when i let go, everything was back to normal. I cant remember which wire it was now, but if anyone needs to know, i can go out to the car and see.

Damn you.... now you've got me thinking... that wire colour would be good to know for sure.

Maybe have this sort of thing in the dash, although slightly more permenant than yours...:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2002-ford...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a6f0ba022

 

[PumaNoob]

Ill have a look for you tomorrow mate. Brown does ring a bell, or brown and yellow. The reason i put mine on the gearstick was so i could put it into gear and then press it straight away, i wanted to be able to press it while driving, and not disrupt me from the rd/track ahead. That button out the focus RS would look a whole lot better though, just not as accesible when racing.

 

[Longyear]

Cheers PumaNoob,

I've seen on another forum that it is indeed the BROWN wire that 'powers' the torque limiter. (It is sometimes referred to as Brown/Black) but anyway it's the only wire with brown on :wink:

So you know my next question; ... where did you get that nice momentary switch from ? ... I assume it has a hole in the middle, where your gear stick shaft in going through ? Looks great

I've seen some others fit a momentary switch under the gear cowelling, which is automatically 'hit' when 1st gear is selected, de-activating the torque limiter. However the fitment of this switch is probably beyond my DIY skills.

PumaNoob - May I ask the easiest way to get the wires that you've run off of the speed sensor wires, into the car ?

Thanks so much.

LY.

 

[PumaNoob]

I made the switch, i used one of these switches from maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/push-to-break-2494" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Then got some 20mm aluminium bar i had in the garage, then drilled a hole through it to mount the switch on the end, then drilled another hole 90 degrees to it to mount on the gearstick. I think the easiest way without frilling holes is to go in through the big rubber boot in the top left as you look at the engine bay, behind the fuse and relay box. Im not sure if thats how i did mine, i think it was. i went in there, down behind the glove box, and under the gear lever cover, and up the gaiter.

 

[Longyear]

Thanks 'Noob, appreciate the help. :thumbs:

Going to give this a go. I think I will go for a 'toggle on/off' switch in front of the gear stick, rather than your push to break style, as I'm not confident that I could manage as well as you did to engineer a solution to keep the switch on the gear stick. ...but a little toggle switch that I could flick on at junctions, then flick off when I get back into 3rd gear, will be easy peazy (he says!).

Thanks for the help!

LY

 

[Anonymous]

Just make sure the wire you use is NO thinner than what the VSS is wired up with. At a GUESS, I would say it would be about .75 or 1mm CSA (cross sectional area).

Using larger wire will not make any difference as larger wire has less resistance!

 

[Longyear]

Just make sure the wire you use is NO thinner than what the VSS is wired up with. At a GUESS, I would say it would be about .75 or 1mm CSA (cross sectional area).

Using larger wire will not make any difference as larger wire has less resistance!

Thanks Sparkie, just ordered some off fleabay. :thumbs:

Still unsure about access point from engine bay into cockpit :? ...... can't seem to see where the wire is going to feed (and where it will come out in the cockpit), but will cross that bridge when I come to it! :grin:

So -------------------------------------------->

With some free time yesterday, I decided to start my painting of the wheels and mirrors.

This is a rattle can job and I am not aiming for perfection. I'll be patient and do the best job I can but my standards almost certainly won't be anywhere near as high as some people would want from a wheel painting exercise. :grin: In my case, I'm just wanting to refresh the wheels, with a lick of black paint hopefully the scratches and kerb marks won't be as noticible.

Apologies for the crap quality of the pics, taken with an naff mobile phone;

Cleaning the wheel before starting:

Preparing the wheel; the use of sellotape over masking tape is intentional, as the masking tape was having trouble sticking to the tyre! ....where you see gaps in the paper, don't worry they're covered with tape. :wink:

The wheel, primed (2 coats) and ready for action:

First wheel, and both mirrors painted (2 coats + laquer), no overrun, no run marks, very happy with it!

So far so good...... no pics of the mirror painting as I was fighting the clock for daylight!

The first wheel has come out great, for what I was after, really pleased with it. The mirrors a bit less so; they're ok but let's just say I have a bid in on a couple of black Puma mirrors on eBay. :wink:

Cheers.

 

[Anonymous]

I've ran a couple of wires from the engine bay into the cockpit/dash board. The wires were for the front fog/driving lights and for the deadlock beepers.

The easiest place I found was to go through the hole in the bulkhead next to/along with my speedo cable. I'm pretty sure there is a rubber gromet of some description, but not one which is tight/sealed. I found it best to poke a thick piece of wire through first, then pull that through with the wire I wanted to pull through taped to it.

Wheel looks good.. Matt or Gloss?!

And my apologies for hijacking your thread earlier..!! k: