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lrrhood said:
it should not make any difference what so ever- however- it does! huge, been on very long runs with the heater set to cool and the car has run fine, more than fine it's been amazing, :(
Click to expand...
I don't want to butt in, or take sides, but I would agree it does make a difference.

I'm not saying anyone is wrong, as the knowledge of members on here is huge compared to what I know, and I totally understand why the HCV 'shouldn't' effect the engine temp.

My radiator fan won't come on when the engine starts to overheat.
With the heater panel set to cold, the temp gauge sits constant and takes ages for the engine to get too hot when stationary.
With the heater panel set to hot, the temp gauge goes down when driving, then up when I slow down and takes a matter of minutes for the engine to start to overheat when stationary.
 
Just putting the overheating question aside for a minute, is the car heater getting as hot as you think it should be or not?


does the right hand pipe from the HCV run to the block under the coil pack as in this picture

http://www.projectpuma.com/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=11&image_id=2079" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and does the left hand pipe run accross the front of the engine towards the drivers side and go to where the thermostat is like in this picture

http://www.projectpuma.com/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=11&image_id=2081" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Thanks again, again, again :thumbs:
Heat- yes good and hot now, cools quite a bit when you pull up at a junction etc but other than that it is as should be
Pipes- as you describe and as picks show
Have just noticed some white crystals/powder covering nut/bolt I have highlighted in picture below, tried to get a pick but my son has hidden my camera! kids.

image.php


Thanks both of you for the support, as said a lot of people on here have far more knowledge than I will ever have either, very greatfull

Perhaps we have the exceptions that prove the rule :eek:k: got to laugh about it
 
I wouldnt worry about the white deposit itll just be calcified deposit from a little coolant weeping or a bit of corrosion.

I think although your heater isnt working as it should i.e its cooling when you slow, the HCV is working at least to some degree as its effecting your engine temperature i.e when its set to cold on a long run your engine temp is fine, but when the dial is set to hot on a long run it overheats. Its not doing what we expect but it is doing something. At least for now I think you should abandon getting the heater control panel.

I think although you said the fat pipe on the bottom left of the radiator is getting properly hot, suggesting to me the thermostat is opening, hot is a subjective thing, and I think either the thermostat isnt opening or isnt opening enough,and you should go the thermostat replacement route, which isnt too expensive. I think it explains why you have water bubbling the wrong way down the pipe into the header tank as it cant travel through the thermostat and pump and back through the engine so has no place else to go. I'm also speculating you still have an airlock on the HCV side that isnt getting resolved also because the thermostat isnt opening.
 
Cheers for that, was starting to think along those lines myself, especially as thermostat is right next to the longest hcv pipe! Sorry going into girlie talk again! :wink:
Any idea of rough cost to replace at a garage, had a quick look earlier and looks really hard as a D.I.Y. job, never afraid to get my hands dirty but no pit or ramps and very minimal tools- went out half way through changing hcv to get locking offset snipe pliers, tried with regular pliers for two hours and still have bruises on my arms to prove it, such an easy job with the right tools!

Want to say thankyou again but sounding like a cracked record so will just say :D :thumbs: :D
 
Well the probs not gone yet so no thanks needed lol. The thermostats themselves arent that expensive I've had stuff from this guy before and hes ok. dont know if you need to spend this much on one though

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Puma-Zetec-Thermostat-Seal-1997-2001-/270822649700?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f0e49af64" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As for fitting its the piece of string question but £20/25 maybe
 
That's what my car was doing when my dodgy Hcv was causing sporadic temp problems. I know in theory it shouldn't have any impact but iv seen it happen to mine with my own eyes so wouldn't rule it out again
 
Why don't you disconnect the 2 hoses from the HCV, connect them together with a piece of pipe and bypass the heater system?
If the engine/temperature then performs OK, you're looking for a problem with the HCV, control panel, or heater unit.
If not OK, you're looking at the water pump or thermostat.

One thing to note, mixing inorganic additive technology (IAT) and organic additive technology (OAT) coolant/antifreeze, can result in foaming and/or a sludge/gel forming in the system.
 
YOG said:
Why don't you disconnect the 2 hoses from the HCV, connect them together with a piece of pipe and bypass the heater system?
If the engine/temperature then performs OK, you're looking for a problem with the HCV, control panel, or heater unit.
If not OK, you're looking at the water pump or thermostat.

One thing to note, mixing inorganic additive technology (IAT) and organic additive technology (OAT) coolant/antifreeze, can result in foaming and/or a sludge/gel forming in the system.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a good idea, will give it a go wed morning, have no idea which coolant has been used up till now as only had the car a few weeks, hope it's ok, will keep an eye on everything and look out for any deposits etc.

steve- have just changed hcv, did it properly and got a genuine ford, so in theory that should be ok, definately has made an improvement, will not rule out that it too could be sus!

Quest- cheers buddy- must say am very pleasently surprised how reasonable parts for these cars are and my mechanic has no probs with me bringing him parts to fit, saves him a job getting them!
so will keep this in mind if it overheats on wednesday, presume I should still run for 20 with heat dial set to hot even though have isolated the heater system? :)
 
i cant see anything else then why the temp the car runs at is affected by wether the temp dial is set to warm or cold, unless there was an airlock in the heatmatrix maybe, or a blockage
 
i suspect either thermostat or headgasket. probably thermostat.

Remember the heater matrix is in effect a mini radiator so you would expect when set to hot, the coolant would cool a little. However once the Heater circuit has warmed up completely then the benefit on cooling is little unless you have the heater fans running max.

also when at idle the heat created by the engine is low compared to when underload so an already overheating cooling system could be maintained at idle ok, but pushed over the edge when under power.

Also dont forget when you initially turn to hot, a litre or so of cold water enters the coolant system thus massively knocking down temperatures initially.

Thermostat issues can be hard to diagnose as they usually dont fail completely, just open less and less meaning less coolant flow and random overheating issues when its been under load or you get heat soaking just after coming off load and you slow down thus less radiator air flow.
 
Just to reiterate my understanding of the current Situation Warren, when shes got the temp dial set to cold theres no problem, its when she has it set to hot on a run that the problem starts,i.e the exact opposite effect that you would expect.

I do agree at this point though on a Thermostat change.But its also clear that the HCV/ use of the heater is having an effect although completely the wrong one, so I revised my opinion on the heater control panel being replaced on the basis of the HCV is clearly responding to control now, albeit strangely

Whilst the use of the heater dial / potential HCV probs shouldnt be able to cause / effect overheating probs anectdotaly again it seems to
 
Hi all, any other tips on alternate ways of removing air blocks?, seen one on here basically thrash the hell out of her on the drive in neutral, water cap on, untill temp gauge goes to near hot and slowly release water/coolant tap to cause a vacume and drag any bubble through the system, thought would ask before isolating hcv as this will probably put more air in system. :roll:
Also going to speek to my little Gary today and get a quote to replace thermostat.
:D :thumbs: :D
 
"I'm forever blowing bubbles, pretty bubbles in my car!!!"

Congrats to all those who said it was an air lock!, been driving round in her and when about 10 mins from home turning heater on full, then on the drive slowly been releasing the coolant resevoir cap, releasing pressure and dragging the little blighters hissing and screaming through the pipes, today, went for a run, heater full on and :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin:
heat where it should have been.
sorry topmansparkie one less in the heater problem club :wink:
 
Cool :cool: :cool: :cool: on the cooling front hope it stays :cool:

I think Sparx was liking those aerials but for placement on the rear of the roof,there are also a variety of bee sting aerials that should screw straight onto your base at the front.However bee stings or the one above will likely give much worse reception than an original one. I never use the radio so either is fine by be :thumbs:
 
Cheers and thanks to both of you for all the help,

I do use the radio a lot, Aaron insits on Classic fm on his way to school (cultured little sausage), then when I drop him off its a quick switch to Chris M, battle of the buttons

Need the base unit as well, went to screw it off to take it through the car wash the other day and realised that in the past it had been broken and glued back in place! But it was a case of priority, no point having a radio when your car is boiling!

Can start to play pretty now :-D

Will contact Ian G on payday and see if he has a second hand one.
 
That was Mac who got one of those shark fin aerials, and as quest has already mentioned I did say it would look better being relocated at the back where the rear washer jet is.

I recently had to buy a new base and aerial for mine, just a beesting one.. The base was like a 10er from eBay and the aerial about the same.. But yes.. It does make radio reception worse unfortunately.. But I always have my iPod plugged in so I'm not fussed about that :)
 
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