Project Silver, PIC HEAVY

[Voa]

Looking forward to your updates m8 should make your braking "awesome" lol :grin:

What pads did you go for something track specific? With 6 pots on the front you are going to get alot of braking force from just the fronts?

 

[ScubaSteve]

thats where most of your braking force comes from anyway, back brakes offer very little in terms of braking

pads wise went for wilwood fast road pads

 

[Voa]

have a read of this steve ,http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_proportioning_valves.shtml

 

[ScubaSteve]

interesting stuff, do the pumas have proportioning valves,? if so iv not seen one

 

[Voa]

Not sure m8 but have been seeing other guys especially using there golfs on the track ,fitting manual brake bias valves ,you will need to run your brake lines in the car??

What controls the reduced braking pressure to the rears on the pumas? I was guessing there must be a valve somewhere, may take a good look under my car tomorrow lol

 

[ScubaSteve]

i have no idea when i redid my brake lines there was nothing to the front just straight out the abs pump and seemed to be the same to the rears, maybes its all done in the master cylinder

 

[YOG]

Non-ABS Fiesta have Brake Pressure-Regulating Valves, so I would assume a Puma without ABS would be the same.

"On models not equipped with ABS, a pressure regulating valve is fitted into the hydraulic circuit to each rear brake. The valves are screwed into the rear brake outlet ports of the master cylinder. The valves regulate the hydraulic pressure being applied to the rear brakes to help prevent rear wheels locking up under hard braking."

 

[ScubaSteve]

but we have abs lol

 

[ScubaSteve]

Removed hubs and coilovers today ready to fit new front wheel bearings and topmounts + topmount bearings

removing tie rod

knocking off suspension

hub removed

empty arch

all the bits and bobs

seems compressed, will be able to tell when stood next to new one when it arrives

 

[Voa]

m8 did you change these when you originally put your coil overs in? Or are they the originals?

 

[ScubaSteve]

Originals as far as I know

 

[ScubaSteve]

gen ford stuff

more pics of more stuff when i get home

 

[ScubaSteve]

new discs 300mm

 

[ScubaSteve]

more goodies, all Ford stuff of course

all the shizz minus the one caliper etc

top mount difference

shiny

 

[ScubaSteve]

done one of the top mount and bearings

old one had quite a bit of play in it

top mount fitted on top

 

[ScubaSteve]

fitted into car, and fitted other braided hose

 

[ScubaSteve]

done the one side which had the worst play, rear stub axle bearing and drum, old stub in there, drum removed, looks to have a bit of heat damage

removed

onto the bearing, driving the new races in using an old race

in

the lovely job of bearing packing

please not gay gloves arent a usual, i have a nastyish cut on my hand that i want to avoid getting grease in

all greased up

new stub on

drum on

old stub up close, looks pretty fucked? got chunks missing out it

 

[ScubaSteve]

finally got my hubs back from the garage

new bearings pressed in

my torque reminder list

new pinch bolts greased up

easiest way of getting the shock back into the hub, jack up from underneath and tap the hub

torquing the shock pinch bolt

Needed my smaller torque wrench for the tie rod and the drop link

ABS sensor was tight getting back in had to have a bit of dremel action then greased the hole

hub nut torqued 270nm

hubnut staked and hub surfaced greased ready to accept the disc

both sides all back on and complete

 

[yippeekiay]

Nice pics/explanations as we have come to expect from you Steve k:

I replaced my top mounts last week as one had a load of movement when turning the steering. Funny thing was my old one wasn't anywhere near as compressed as yours - in fact there was no discernable difference between it and the new one.
While I was at the Ring' I had the bonnet open and still noticed movement in the suspension tops above the suspension turrets but I get it on both sides now whereas it was only on one before :?

Going by your pictures above your coilovers are fitted exactly the same in that you fit the bearing to the top and fix it with a half nut, then 'plop' on the top mount and put it on/under the suspension turret. Then I'm assuming you just put the very top mounts on (above the turrets) and bolt them down tight. When I did this the very top nut (the nyloc one) bolted down until I couldn't get it any tighter and I didn't need an allen key to stop the suspension spinning as I needed with the older mounts.

Have I missed something do you think or is there supposed to be a little movement still. My camber is/looks perfect from before and the steering has now corrected itself so the steering wheel is central and the car steers perfectly straight and doesn't track left or right when letting go.

Sorry for the long post mate, but I know how precise you are when fitting stuff so your opinion/advice is as good as anyone's. k:

If it's mine then my adjustable mounts are going to have to be a priority rather than an option as they are now.

 

[ScubaSteve]

no its normal to have movement there mate