Puma_Sam's very own track day project

[Puma_Sam]

Hi all,

Purchased my first Puma a week ago and have just found this place.

I got the car which is a 2001 1.7 with 96k on the clock. MOT'd until September and it set me back a whopping £150... which is an absolute steal as its in good condition as far as I am aware.

I have no mechanical skills (yet) and the most I have done is change pads and break lines on my previous cars/van. I look to learn as I go along hoping to do as much as I can with limited knowledge/resources/tools.

The Puma is for tracking only so I will be nagging away at you lot for assistance/advice.

I bought the Puma a week or so ago now and have got stuck into it today for the first time.

So far I have done the usual strip out, getting rid of all that useless stuff in the back!

I was like a kid at Christmas when I had done although I soon realised that was the easy part.

I would really appreciate some pointers form you all as to what I should be checking around the car as well as what I should make my priorities.

I will need to save for each mod/part so it may be a while before its perfect but I am keen to keep things moving as I really want to get on the track (Mallory or Cadwell).

After another hour or so removing the final few extras in the car I will look to drop the oil and change filters and plugs?

then when its had a little service I think the breaks are on the agenda to upgrade.

Here is what I have doe so far in picture form...

[imghttp://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/lowfield107/IMG_1265_zps1eb03b54.jpg?t=1394325245][/img]

 

[BigAl]

Welcome to ProjectP mate! Look forward to seeing your track car develop! :grin:

 

[Noobrider]

best of luck with your project. Start scraping the sound deadening off, the more weight you lose the better the car will go so look to remove as much as possible and losing weight is free.

 

[Puma_Sam]

Thanks Al

Cheers noobrider. I have seen your thread, car looks great. I think you'll be getting a few pm's from me in the future seeking advice

 

[Noobrider]

No problem Sam, ask as many as you like. The best piece of advice I can give you refarding tracking your Puma though, or anything for that matter is...

Book a track day before spending a load of money on the car. Save an extra £50 for the day, that way you can spend £30 on getting some quality photo's on track and £20 for the most important thing of all...tuition.

The instructor will teach you how to drive the track properly and you will understand what modifications you need to do to the car and why.

Devote more of your money to track time than building....

 

[Puma_Sam]

Cheers,

I think once its had new plugs, filters and oil (so not to go bang around Shaws at Mallory). I would like to get the brakes done before getting on the track.

I have read quite a few threads mentioning break fade on the standard puma brakes.

I could do with advice on the parts I need for this, I do not want to do the upgrade that a few seem to opt for and grind down after fitting large brakes. id like to go sensible but up to the job.

I'd just like to fit the largest possible that work safely with the original 9 spokes.

I will take up on your advice off booking a track day sooner than later, I guess I thought the car would be a million miles away from being up to it but I suppose that's the best way of finding out.

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Sam
Try Blyton before Mallory or Cadwell. There's nowt to hit, it's near to you and it will probably be cheaper as well. It's just to the East of Gainsborough and you can book it through Javelin Trackdays (Apex not doing it this year)
Barry

 

[Noobrider]

Yes Blyton is an excellent track for first timers - but - be careful to book the right one as they have added some new tarmac and created a new technical circuit option. At the moment they are not allowing novices on it, only the original circuit

 

[stumc]

youre spot on removing as much weight as you can, its free speed! as said, get the sound deadening gone, a heat gun and chisel/scraper is the easiest way in my experience.

depending on your budget, id say the only real essentials for a basic trackday setup would be good tyres, good pads and fluid, and fresh bushes. lower arms and rear axle bushes seem to be the common downfall on these, suspension wise so sometimes even replacing them with new pattern parts will be an upgrade :lol:

for tyres i personally run toyo T1Rs as theyre quite grippy and very cheap. you can get them for around £40 online. brakes wise i run EBC green stuffs and ATE superblue fluid. these faded slightly when i was on track with full interior and a passenger, but stripped out with no passenger they were fine. you should be able to get all that done for around £250.

other ways of getting more weight out would be removing the dash, heater/aircon and stereo.

 

[Puma_Sam]

Hi Sam
Try Blyton before Mallory or Cadwell. There's nowt to hit, it's near to you and it will probably be cheaper as well. It's just to the East of Gainsborough and you can book it through Javelin Trackdays (Apex not doing it this year)
Barry

Thanks for the info, however, I have absolutely no desire for these kind of tracks. I once did elvington or elvaston (never remember the correct name) in York in a Ferrari,mclaren and something else thinking it was somewhat boring having no actual apex to hit other than road cones and white lines.

I have been watching family friends compete in 750 motor club formula vee's and mighty minis since I was in a pushchair up until around 16 or so. So I have walked/run/cycled around tracks such as Mallory,cadwell,oulton,donnington,Snett ect ect many a Saturday night after qually.

I also like to kart as much as possible and I realise that these may be no substitute for on track experience, but I do not see me having any problems being thrown in at the deep end.

(apologies ifthat reads ignorant/cocky, however I feel I am more capable than a novice)

Hey, lap times don't lie so I guess you can make me eat my skid lid if my times are pants

Its an open pit lane full day session or nothing!!!

 

[Puma_Sam]

youre spot on removing as much weight as you can, its free speed! as said, get the sound deadening gone, a heat gun and chisel/scraper is the easiest way in my experience.

depending on your budget, id say the only real essentials for a basic trackday setup would be good tyres, good pads and fluid, and fresh bushes. lower arms and rear axle bushes seem to be the common downfall on these, suspension wise so sometimes even replacing them with new pattern parts will be an upgrade :lol:

for tyres i personally run toyo T1Rs as theyre quite grippy and very cheap. you can get them for around £40 online. brakes wise i run EBC green stuffs and ATE superblue fluid. these faded slightly when i was on track with full interior and a passenger, but stripped out with no passenger they were fine. you should be able to get all that done for around £250.

other ways of getting more weight out would be removing the dash, heater/aircon and stereo.

Cheers stumc,

That's a few of you stating that the sound deadening should go, I overlooked this when ripping the rest out.

How much of the dash can I take out?

Also, what's best, original sun visors or a full length decal sun strip?

How hard are these bushes to replace? Do I need certain tools, will I break anything whilst doing so?

Tyres - are these semi slicks? What's the track rules? Do I need a normal set of spares such as the road legal tyres that are currently on for incase it's a damp/wet track?

Heater/air con... How easy are they to remover? Does the air con connect to anything else and is it safe for joe blogs here to do so?

Brakes... Are these standard size or can I (as I would like to) increase disc size without having to grind parts down. I want safety to come into this as I have read that sticking the biggest brakes 300mm? On can cause work and also safety issues what with less clearance causing overheating and also potential for debris to lodge and cause a lock up...

 

[Puma_Sam]

youre spot on removing as much weight as you can, its free speed! as said, get the sound deadening gone, a heat gun and chisel/scraper is the easiest way in my experience.

depending on your budget, id say the only real essentials for a basic trackday setup would be good tyres, good pads and fluid, and fresh bushes. lower arms and rear axle bushes seem to be the common downfall on these, suspension wise so sometimes even replacing them with new pattern parts will be an upgrade :lol:

for tyres i personally run toyo T1Rs as theyre quite grippy and very cheap. you can get them for around £40 online. brakes wise i run EBC green stuffs and ATE superblue fluid. these faded slightly when i was on track with full interior and a passenger, but stripped out with no passenger they were fine. you should be able to get all that done for around £250.

other ways of getting more weight out would be removing the dash, heater/aircon and stereo.

That's a few of you stating that the sound deadening should go, I overlooked this when ripping the rest out.

How much of the dash can I take out?, what's best, original sun visors or a full length decal sun strip?

How hard are these bushes to replace? Do I need certain tools, will I break anything whilst doing so?

Tyres - are these semi slicks? What's the track rules? Do I need a normal set of spares such as the road legal tyres that are currently on for incase it's a damp/wet track?

Heater/air con... How easy are they to remover? Does the air con connect to anything else and is it safe for joe blogs here to do so?

Brakes... Are these standard size or can I (as I would like to) increase disc size without having to grind parts down. I want safety to come into this as I have read that sticking the biggest brakes 300mm? On can cause work and also safety issues what with less clearance causing overheating and also potential for debris to lodge and cause a lock up...

Cheers

 

[stumc]

That's a few of you stating that the sound deadening should go, I overlooked this when ripping the rest out.

How much of the dash can I take out?, what's best, original sun visors or a full length decal sun strip?

How hard are these bushes to replace? Do I need certain tools, will I break anything whilst doing so?

Tyres - are these semi slicks? What's the track rules? Do I need a normal set of spares such as the road legal tyres that are currently on for incase it's a damp/wet track?

Heater/air con... How easy are they to remover? Does the air con connect to anything else and is it safe for joe blogs here to do so?

Brakes... Are these standard size or can I (as I would like to) increase disc size without having to grind parts down. I want safety to come into this as I have read that sticking the biggest brakes 300mm? On can cause work and also safety issues what with less clearance causing overheating and also potential for debris to lodge and cause a lock up...

Cheers

dash -

loads! theres a steel support bar that runs along the back of it which isnt light by any means, with all the other junk lopped off theres alot of weight to be saved. i run a sunstrip as i have ditched the visors. but theres not alot of weight in them to be fair.

the lower arm bushes on the front end are easy - in theory. theres only 3 bolts but it all depends on how seized/rusty they are! aslong as youve got a good breaker bar and a decent hammer you should be fine :lol: the rears are a bit of a faff. i know of 2 ways of removing them, first is to get a drillbit between the outer steel casing of the bush and the part of the rear beam that they are pressed into. drill through, then you have split the casing, released the pressure and they should knock out. the second is drill out the rubber bushing, then use a hacksaw to cut through the outer casing, giving you a similar split in the casing. they are a bit of a twat but nothing some swearing and brute force cant overcome. fitting polybushes back in is the best and easiest option in my opinion. plus theyr stiffer and last longer - win.

tyres are normal road tyres, just a more performance orientated. totally road legal and practical for everyday use if required.

the heater is easy to remove when youve taken the dash out. simply unbolt it from the panel under the windscreen (nuts inside the car) and itll drop out. connect up the heater pipes to make a closed circuit again and youre away. the aircon is trickier. you need to take the car to get the gas removed. you defintely should not stick some welding wire in the valve and go inside for a cup of tea. once the gas is out, the pipework and components can be removed, but the pipes have to be cut in a few places to remove them as theyre pressed fittings and cant be disconnected. you then can either leave the aircon pump attached, but it weighs a ton. or you can fit the non-aircon type power steering pump and hoses in its place and save another lump of weight. you can get the non-aircon PAS pumps from various fiestas.

as for brakes, i run standard size for the moment, theyre ok, like i said, once the car was stripped i found them alright. theres always room for improvement on the standard stuff though, 280mm brakes from a fiesta ST fit straight on, and the mk2 mondeos came with 280mm brakes although im not sure what the fitment is like.

hope that helps.

 

[Noobrider]

only danger removing the heater is misting if its damp or wet. I'm keeping my heater until I can find a heated screen. But, there is a big advantage to removing a lot of the stuff behind the dash, there's a lot of weight behind there as stumc says.

I just bought a set of Toyo T1Rs for £150 delivered, most places like JJC motorsport or Demon Tweeks sell them at this price. They are high performance road tyres slightly softer compound. We ran them on the Pumesta at one point and they were very good, a step away from semi slicks.

The rear bushes can be a real pain to remove. There is a piece of white plastic round the outside of the black rubber but within the metal that holds the rubber in place. Cut and writhe this out and it will make removing the bush a bit easier. Using a hacksaw, cut a slot in the metal bush part (not the outer casing though) this will help knocking the bush out. We usually do this with an air chisel but you can use a hammer and chisel. Some come out easy others can take ages.

Fitting the new polybushes is a doddle, they come in two halves with a bush that wil press through the middle helped with a bit of WD40. You cant really break anything but when doing the fronts just be careful of the rubber gators on the ball joints, you dont want to split them. The rest is just an unbolting process.

Anti roll bar polybushes are a pain to fit and the front polybush on the dogbone engine mount is also nigh on impossble to fit, they seem to be made too big,but the large rear one is easy.

 

[Noobrider]

By the way, Blyton is a proper circuit and can be good fun. Its not a coned out airfield, its a proper circuit that is used for national sprints and some rally stages. Its fast and hooking up some good laps consistently is a skill. The advantage is it has lots of flat run off areas the disadvantage is it kills brakes as its a bit - flat out - brake hard - flat out - brake hard.

We have done Blyton a fair bit, its good to use for comparisons and testing new things, just gets a bit boring and the owner can be a bit of an arse sometimes.

 

[Puma_Sam]

Guys, that's awesome, thanks for the great advice. It makes a world of difference when there is someone in the know pointing you in the right direction.

Picking up some NGK plugs tomorrow after work but wont be able to get on with the car until sometime at the weekend.
I plan to remove what I can of the dash (isn't the windscreen heated on the Puma?) and will get rid of the sound deadening stuff.

Stumc - the picture is great, so very very neat. you are blessed with the silver interior as it blends in well!

Noob - Thanks for the heads up regards Blyton. Ill maybe have a run out one day to get a look.

If I remove the door panels, do I need to bolt anything back onto the main door?

Sam.

 

[stumc]

also mate, you can replace the big cast iron contraptions ontop of the front strut tops with normal washers, and the rear wiper motor is dead weight too if you ask me :lol: then theres lots of smaller stuff which will eventually add up, like the engine cover, sound deadening under the bonnet, and the resonator box that sits above the manifold. and of course the spare wheel if you havnt already ditched that!

as for the doors, youll be left with the window switches and mirror switch dangling, i personally just fed the wiring through the little bracket for the door pull thats rivetted to the door frame and used it to hold the switches in place.

 

[Puma_Sam]

Sound, I will get the doors stripped out at the weekend.

I have found that the weld after the back box is blowing. What's the best course of action with this? new straight thru exhaust?

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Sam
Looking at the photos of your stripped out interior, unless the photos tell a lie you should have a look at the inner sills next to the rear beam support brackets. There might be a rust issue there but I hope not. If there is you need some welding doing before you track it.
Good Luck
Barry

 

[stumc]

a hoffman race tube is properly a good choice, search ebay for these, theyre pretty cheap. i have 2 spare standard exhausts at the minute though, so if you want a std replacement system, or even just the back box, drop me a pm and we can sort something out.