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topmansparkie said:
I've ran a couple of wires from the engine bay into the cockpit/dash board. The wires were for the front fog/driving lights and for the deadlock beepers.

The easiest place I found was to go through the hole in the bulkhead next to/along with my speedo cable. I'm pretty sude there is a rubber gromet of some description, but not one which is tight/sealed. I found it best to poke a think piece of wire through first, then pull that through with the wire I wanted to pull through taped to it.

Wheel looks good.. Matt or Gloss?!

Cheers mate; I'll have another squire about to see if I can spot that inlet into the cockpit. :cool:

The paint is matt; but the laquer adds a little glosification (new word)... but not overly. So a nice subtle edge on the matt. Cheers.
 
Like the look of the black alloys, I have the same ones, might have to do the same :)
 
Wheel & Mirror painting antics all completed :grin:

Here is a disgracefully poor pic (poor phone camera, poor lighting, poor photographer!) of the car with all wheels and mirrors now painted. (The wheels will stay as is, but the mirrors are getting replaced by two black puma mirrors):

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Very, very happy with the wheels. The car looks so much more contemporary now, which is what this project is all about. And on next to no budget!

Next things to get done:-

- Sorting out the Torque Limiter bypass switch (either from Speed Sensor or ECU PIN 58, haven't decided yet).
- Engine Oil & Filter change.

Cheers.
 
Looks good. I think it's good to get rid of the silver wheels... too 'normal'!

Job well done! :eek:k:
 
Decided to start on my Torque Limiter bypass fitment this afternoon.

I know it's a mod that some love and others feel passionately against. If you feel religiously against the mod, (as some seem to be) I'd politely suggest you stop reading now, and move onto a different thread. For those with an open mind, and a respect that we all make choices for our own cars, take any associated risks, and accept any consequences; ....read on!

It's a fudge to bypass the torque limiter on 1st & 2nd gear. If you own a pre-2000 car you'll see limited improvement on acceleration. But if like me you own a later car, where the torque limiter threshold was increased from 1500 to 2800rpm, you will find a quite dramatic improvement in acceleration in 1st gear, and to a lesser extent 2nd gear. The torque limiter retards ignition to reduce torque and the result is that feeling that later Pumas have in 1st gear that something is just holding them back... well, it is! ..... The increase in the torque limiter RPM threshold from 1500rpm to 2800rpm is the reason the earlier cars have a 0-60 time of 8.8 secs, where the newer cars (with greater torque limitation) take 9.2 seconds for the 0-60 dash. So if you can imagine no torque limitation at all, you should be looking at a sub 8.8 seconds 0-60 time, from an otherwise standard car ... and let me tell you it feels it! Why is this TL there is the first place? ... Ford state that it is to protect the gearbox and drive shafts from premature failure.

Removing the TL is done by interrupting the signal from the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) to the ECU and digital dash. So there are two things to consider; (i) if you have a digital dash, the speedo won't work while the TL is bypassed, and (ii) without a speed reading the ECU can do some strange things. So..... hence we need to bypass the TL just momentarily, while in 1st & 2nd gear, we then need to restore the VSS signal, so that the ECU can reaquaint itself with the car's speed. Hence a switch, that can be activated to bypass the TL momentarily in 1st & 2nd gear, then de-activated to restore VSS signal. With this mod, you will not have a working speedo while the bypass is activated (ie.. while in 1st & 2nd gear). ** unless you have an older, cable driven speedo **

To do the bypass, the brown wire from the VSS (which is located on top of the gearbox) needs to be cuts and two wires run from it, into the cabin, to a switch. Easy Peasy. Some people claim to have done a similar bypass by cutting a wire on the ECU Main Plug (PIN 58) but I decided against attempting this method, as the majority of people who've executed this bypass have used the VSS method rather than the ECU method; decided to go with the majority on this one!

Before I cut the VSS wire (I've already tested the mod by unplugging the VSS), I am going to do the rest of the wiring and switch fitment first. So that's what I'm doing in this post. The connection of the newly fitted switch and wiring to the spliced VSS brown wire will be completed tomorrow.

Here we go, ready to start:-

The new wires are temporarily taped to engine cover, to avoid them dashing off darn sarf!... We'll come back to these in the next installment, and attach them to the spliced VSS brown wire:

image039.jpg


Wires running from bay (as yet unattached to anything), into main wiring grommet. After this I then tucked them nicely into the rubber edging at the top of the bulkhead panel:

image030.jpg


Yeeha!, wires arrive at the other end, in the cabin. As you can see, I taped the 2 wires to the thicker audio cable, with a jack plug, to help in pushing it through the grommet area, which is a tight fit!:

image031.jpg


Wires temporarily secured in cabin... oh and there's the switch:

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Gear console off:

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This is where I'm fitting the switch, in the small coin recepticle at the front:

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So, I need to drill a hole right here:-

image036.jpg


...and fitted (rear view):

image037.jpg


...fitted (front view):

image038.jpg



.....so all that's left to do is to cut the VSS brown wire and join each end of my bypass wiring, to the two cut ends of the VSS brown wire. I need to pick up some 'crimpy together wirey things' (forgot their real name lol!) tomorrow, hence why that parts being left until last.

Cheers.
 
To be honest, with a pre 2000 model, removing the torque limiter does make quite a big difference. Even more so when you put it back on and notice what you did have!

Also, as mentioned before, with the analogue dash the speedo still works as it's cable driven.
 
shame you didnt try the ecu method would have been interesting to know if it worked, pretty risk free as you could have joined it up again if no joy
 
ScubaSteve said:
shame you didnt try the ecu method would have been interesting to know if it worked, pretty risk free as you could have joined it up again if no joy
I'd give it a try if you want ScubaSteve.....

My VSS is totally disconnected due to an idle issue I have. I think my ICV is stuffed, but I could give it a squirt and see what I can find out for you...

EDIT: But, saying that... I'm analogue and you're digital...??
 
good work with the wheels there mate :eek:k:

Each to their own for modification wise, its your car and you do what you want with it :) its what makes it unique to you
 
ScubaSteve said:
shame you didnt try the ecu method would have been interesting to know if it worked, pretty risk free as you could have joined it up again if no joy

I know, I was in two minds about it; I wanted to try it but kind of bottled it I suppose.

The only reason was that I was not quite 100% sure I had the right wire ID'd. I could have been 100% sure if I'd taken the ECU out, to check the plug and PIN numbers, but I didn't want to break the ECU rivets just to try this out, and so by not checking the PINs properly, I'd have been going purely off the colour of the wire (blue/white).......... was almost sure I had that wire, but I had just a nagging doubt, so went to the VSS splice instead.
 
topmansparkie said:
ScubaSteve said:
shame you didnt try the ecu method would have been interesting to know if it worked, pretty risk free as you could have joined it up again if no joy
I'd give it a try if you want ScubaSteve.....

My VSS is totally disconnected due to an idle issue I have. I think my ICV is stuffed, but I could give it a squirt and see what I can find out for you...

EDIT: But, saying that... I'm analogue and you're digital...??

Only thing is, you'd have to get your VSS back on, or else you wouldn't know if the ECU cut-in was doing anything.... (sorry, stating the obvious I know!).

If you do fancy trying it, it's allegedly a blue/white wire, on the ECU Main Plug loom, on PIN 58

...but as you said, the main thing we'd want to see was whether it interrupts the TL but keeps the digital speedo on. Wouldn't see that on an analogue car.

:cool:
 
Ok, don't take this too seriously, it's partly (mainly!) tongue in cheek, but I've been doing some Maths to try and figure out the likely 0-60 time of a standard 1.7, with the torque limiter bypassed.

HERE'S MY THEORETICAL FORMULA:

So, we know that with a 1500rpm threshold limitation on the torque limiter, the pre-2000 cars achieved 8.8 seconds

and, we know that with a 2800rpm threshold limitation on the torque limiter, the post-2000 cars achieved 9.2 seconds.

....so let's summise that the 1300rpm difference between the two torque limiter values above, caused a difference in acceleration between the pre- and post- 2000 cars of 0.4 (the difference between 8.8 and 9.2).

So keep that in mind; 1300rpm represents 0.4 seconds;

Now, the full 2800rpm limitation is 'removed' when we bypass the torque limiter completely. And 2800 represents just over 215% of the 1300rpm that we know caused a factor of 0.4 difference......

.....so let's multiply 0.4 by 215% and we get = 0.86.

So within this theoretical 'model', the 2800rpm torque limitation could be said to represent a performance reduction of 0.86 seconds. (Based on the performance reduction we saw between the 1500 and 2800 limiter performance figures).

So let's take my post-2000 model with it's 9.2 figure and strip away the theoretical 0.86 secs for removing the full torque limitation, and we get

0-60: 8.3 seconds

Not bad eh! .......... ok, please don't be too hard on me because I'm only having fun here really, but I would honestly say that driving my car with the TL on the acceleration does feel like 9.2 seconds (except from 3rd gear onwards where it feels much more rapid)........... and I can honestly say that 8.3 seconds feels about right for the acceleration with the TL completely bypassed. It definately feels close to a second faster.

:grin:
 
Torque Limiter Bypass Switch completed!

All tested, and works perfectly :grin: ..... I have a feeling that I will soon want to change the switch position and switch type because as you can see in the above pics, it does require a 'lean forward' to reach the switch in the centre console. I wanted the switch to be subtle and not some big great obvious addition to the cockpit! I achieved that as you can't see it unless you're looking, but at the cost of it being a tad awkward to flick regularly.....

But just chuffed that it's working great. It was a little awkward access-wise, to strip and join the wires down near the VSS sensor. but it just depends what you're willing to remove to improve access. I just unplugged a feed plug into the coil pack, but if I'd been inclined to have taken the car battery out, access would have been a breeze. Never mind, it still only took 15 mins to carefully cut the VSS wire and (neatly) join the new bypass wires to the two cut halves. :grin:

I think part 2 of my torque limiter plan will be to see how I can fit a momentary 'push to break' switch into the gear stick (just below the knob), so that I can hold that while in 1st and 2nd, without then needing to hit the toggle switch. Obviously wiring in the additional PTB switch is easy but I'm not sure how i'll attach it to the gear stick yet. Haven't got the equipment (or probably the skills) to to what PumaNoob did with his and make a custom shaft for the switch ........ but I'll find a way.

Ok, next up for the car ; Oil & Filter change. :thumbs:
 
Looks like a good job on the switch mate, and its hidden away nicely!!

Your maths seems to be spot on if thats the quoted figures, other then accounting for minimal amount of drag at that low speed and any wheel spin, your probably not far off the money there, and 0.86 secs on a 1/4 mile strip is a hell of a difference!!
 
PumaNoob said:
Looks like a good job on the switch mate, and its hidden away nicely!!

Your maths seems to be spot on if thats the quoted figures, other then accounting for minimal amount of drag at that low speed and any wheel spin, your probably not far off the money there, and 0.86 secs on a 1/4 mile strip is a hell of a difference!!

Cheers Fella. Yes, been out for another drive and I do prefer the 'toggle' switch strategy rather than a momentary (push-to-break) switch, as I wouldn't fancy having to keep it pressed while 'in-gear' all the way through 1st & 2nd. But.... I am going to relocate the switch.. It is nice and snug and subtle down in the coin tray, but just a tad out of fast reach. I'm going to move it up into the blank switch plate on the far left of the heated windscreen buttons etc. :grin: Nice and reachable and easily viewed with a momentary glance, while driving. Better than leaning into the coin tray.

Oh I meant to say to you noob, about when you tried the Torque Limiter Bypass and couldn't notice a difference, but you were on a TAPE ECU remapped by Pumaspeed (few posts up the thread)... if that was Pumaspeed's non-Ford remap (which it sounds like) it definately removed the full torque limiter, so hence you probably didn't have any limitation and hence not noticing the difference. :thumbs:

Good point about the difference that 0.86 (or any effect from the TL bypass) would make on a 1/4 mile. I probably should have said earlier in the thread for context, that quarter mile dragstrip is my thing; as opposed to track driving which I have no interest in. Hence some of the decisions I make on my project will be in line with that. :cool:

Cheers.

* I'm a huge fan of your Santa Pod vids on YouTube :wink:
 
Its a shame your so far from pod, it would take you about 4 hours to get there wouldnt it? We could have had a little mini meet down there!! :lol:

I think from estimate it took another 30-40bhp for me to knock almost exactly 0.86 secs of my 1/4 time.

Thinking about it, you are probably right about the Pumaspeed remap, it would take quite a bit of hassle to make 2 seperate maps, 1 with the torque limiter, and 1 without. I did the black mirror mod to my puma too, i think it changes the look quite a lot, i thought about doing black bonnet too, but most people would just think id had a bump and brought a 2nd hand bonnet and not bothered to get it sprayed!!
 
PumaNoob said:
Its a shame your so far from pod, it would take you about 4 hours to get there wouldnt it? We could have had a little mini meet down there!! :lol:

I think from estimate it took another 30-40bhp for me to knock almost exactly 0.86 secs of my 1/4 time.

Thinking about it, you are probably right about the Pumaspeed remap, it would take quite a bit of hassle to make 2 seperate maps, 1 with the torque limiter, and 1 without. I did the black mirror mod to my puma too, i think it changes the look quite a lot, i thought about doing black bonnet too, but most people would just think id had a bump and brought a 2nd hand bonnet and not bothered to get it sprayed!!

Ha ha, yes true!

Yes mate, Im about 4 hours from the 'Pod... been 4 times but not for 8 years now :( ... but hoping to make it there once my modest little Puma is all dressed and ready to go :cool: ... won't be getting times like yours (or beating 400bhp Sierra Cossies!) but I'd still love to see what time I could get. Last time I was there was with remapped Seat Ibiza TDI 130 Sport, remapped to 180hp.... (mate's car)... can't remember the times but I remember that I was 1.5 secs quicker than my mate! .. hardly surprising the car was 1 month old and his pride and joy; clearly I wasn't being as forgiving with it lol! A month after we were there (and on a 2 month old VAG), the clutch started slipping! ....too much torque for a VW Polo chassis! I'm sure the map took the torque to about 400nm!

:)
 
So... an ABSOLUTE BARGAIN arrived today!

Although I'm really happy with my painted wheels, I was less happy with the mirrors that I painted (mainly because you sit much closer to the mirrors than the wheels, so see them closer up lol!)........

So I won a set of virtually unmarked, original black Puma mirrors off eBay, for £27 !! (Other single mirrors on a buy-it-now were going for about £40-£50 a side, in good condition). The mirrors arrived today and I had them on in 15 mins:-

puma_110.jpg


puma_111.jpg


puma_115.jpg


puma_113.jpg


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.......I'm really happy with how the Puma is looking now :) .... But I realized today just what good condition the car is in, for what I paid. It really is a solid 'un!..... I also realized that despite it being the cheapest car I've bought in the last 10 years, it has the lowest mileage!! (71k) ...Mainly because I've owned a few VAG TDis bought with high mileages. So I'm just loving my Puma... long may it last!

So as I said further up the thread, an Oil & Filter change is on the cards. I also forgot to update the thread to say that I now have a K&N Panel Filter on the car :cool: .... opens up the sound nicely above 5000rpm :)

But also, look at photos above; how much does this car need to be lowered? :wink:

As my project is being done on the tightest of budgets (Following redundancy, I'm unemployed after 23 years working, since leaving school at 16)..... it will probably be lowering springs only; and fairly cheap ones at that .... (but not £48 a set off eBay!).

Oh and, my mate has just picked up one of these VBOXs, and is coming around later to see the Puma for the first time..... hoping he'll be up for nipping off somewhere suitable to test some 0-60 times on the Puma!

:grin:
 
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